Keno

Woodruff key is just for alignment of the flywheel. The flywheel is actually held in place due to the taper fit of the mating surfaces of the flywheel and crankshaft.

Have you tried hooking a light up to the output? I'm wondering if the pulsed dc output from the rectifier is just throwing your meter off.

What do your reeds look like? Any petals missing?

Ohh, cool, never knew that about the caps. I knew it would draw coolant back from the reservoir, but didn't know how.

Just fill radiator, leave the lid off, start the motor, wait for any large bubbles to work their way out, fill again, put the lid on.

I've ran lots of avgas. It isn't your problem. The 120 psi with a cut head is definitely a clue though.

Can you link to a video of it running so that we can hear what it sounds like when trying to accelerate?

The new ones appear to be knock off Mikuni carbs. Possibly both for the same side as both are missing the choke plunger? Could be shit, could be good. Most people avoid knock off carbs. The Sudco/Keihin carbs appear to be either a 36 Quad vent, or 35 or 38 AirStriker. Probably a little overkill for a stock setup. The chokes works by pulling the choke on both carbs. ie the choke is activated on each carb independently of the other. Most people run the Keihin PWK series if running a modified engine. I can't tell, but if there isn't a part number stamped below the PWK these may be fake as well The real Mikuni carbs are OEM for the bike and it appears that 1 of them is missing the idle screw. and both are missing the caps. I can't tell, but the bowl on one might be missing something or is broken off. You can possibly replace the bowl with one from the fake carbs.

Common sense says don't go below 0 rpm or above 12K rpm I'm assuming he is talking about mean piston speed which increases a stroke increases. From the 2 stroke tuners handbook, the normal max MPS is around 4000 ft/minute MPS=.166*stroke (inches)*RPM which puts the normal max rpm for a +7mm around 10,500. BUT, Not very many people get on here talking about snapping rods and over that RPM you are in over-rev and should shift anyways. Basically don't be a dumbass and rev it to 12K for 5 minutes at a time.

Also if you are wanting to increase brake performance, ideally, you would want to keep the yamaha's larger diameter rotor. A larger rotor takes less clamping force than a smaller rotor, while dissipating heat better. Thus, a custom brake stay thay allows the use of a dual piston caliper with the yamaha rotor would be the better of the options, unless you were really needing the ground clearance.

Hmmmmm, I wonder if JDS could cut a brake stay for this to make it easier.

I ride in woods, tall grass, and dirt hills with the rotor and sproket guards from JDS. I am only running 1 side of the sproket guard. I think he makes a 1 sided sprocket guard now. Should help prevent any chain derailment.

YOU NEED A MULTIMETER TO CHECK RESISTANCE. Something like this, I like the ones with a continuity test function. http://a.co/6RYTVNd Watch this From the link posted in your other thread that you obviously didn't look at. http://www.dfn.com/agservices/elecfaq.html Q#25:What’s an “Ohmmeter”? A#25:An Ohmmeter is a small instrument used to test for “resistance” in an electrical circuit. Back to the water analogy from Q#23, resistance is a measure of how much water is flowing down the river, or if it’s flowing at all. In electrical terms, you can test resistance through a wire to make sure that it isn’t broken between two ends (this is important because even if a wire looks fine on the outside, the copper wire inside the plastic insulation can be broken in half), this type of test is called “continuity”. You can also use an Ohmmeter to test the stator and coil, in this case you would be looking for a certain resistance, or amount of Ohms, from the specs above to tell if the components are OK; if you tested it and found an abnormally high Ohm reading, it’s possible that the internal wiring of the device is broken (an “open circuit”); if you see a very low Ohm reading, it’s possible that it has a “short circuit” or the internal wiring is melted together where it shouldn’t be. Just remember that Ohms tell you how easily electricity can flow through a wire. Q#27:How do I use an Ohmmeter to test resistance? A#27:To test resistance, set the meter to “Ohms”, if several ranges are available on your meter select the one closest to what you are looking for. For example, if you’re testing the ignition coil of the stator, set the meter to read 10-100 Ohms. Then touch one test lead to each of the terminals that the wire color you’re looking for is attached to (in the ignition coil example, put one test lead on the terminal for the red wire and the other test lead on the green wire’s terminal), then read the meter to tell how many Ohms of resistance are between the two test leads. When testing resistance, it DOESN’T matter which color test lead you put where, like continuity you are just testing how much, if any, electricity can flow through. In a Banshee application, there are no components (other than inside the CDI) that you can test that will matter which way electricity can flow. So in the example, it doesn’t matter if you put the black test lead on the green wire or the red wire, or the red test lead on the green or red wire, the results will be the same. Q#29:How do I test the Ignition Coil on the Stator? A#29:Using an ohmmeter and the specifications above, check the resistance between the red wire and the green wire on the four-wire harness coming out of the stator. Find the four-wire connector (usually white), at the front of the airbox on the right-hand side of the bike. Depress the little plastic retainer on the connector and disconnect the two connector halves. Take a look at the wire on the connector towards the front of the bike, it should run under the carbs and into the left-hand side of the motor’s bottom end. That is the connector you want to test. On the back side of the connector where the wires enter, locate the red and green wires. Set your ohmmeter to test resistance (and the correct range if you need to), and touch one test lead to the terminal on the red wire, and the other test lead on the terminal on the green wire. Your ohmmeter should read between 13.7 and 20.5 Ohms, so if it reads 15 Ohms your stator ignition coil is OK, if it reads “- -“ or infinite Ohms or anything less than 13.7 or more than 20.5, then the stator is shot. Q#30:How do I test the Pickup Coil? A#30:Same as above Q#29, except you will be testing between the red & white wire and the green & white wire in the four-wire connector. You should have between 94 and 140 Ohms between these two wires. An important note is that the pickup coil needs to have the correct gap between it and the flywheel tabs. To check the gap, rotate the flywheel until one of the tabs on the outside lines up with the pickup coil (either by hand or by moving the kickstarter slowly). The gap should be between 0.015" and 0.020", if you need to adjust the gap loosen the two small phillips-head screws where the pickup coil mounts and relocate it, then retighten the screws. If you’re in a real bind, you can use a matchbook cover to check the gap, it’s about the same thickness. Just like adjusting valves on a 4-stroke motor, the feeler gauge should slide easily into the gap with just the slightest drag, it should not be a bitch to cram the feeler gauge in there (that’s too tight!) and you shouldn’t be able to bounce the feeler gauge back and forth inside the gap (too loose!). Q#31:How do I test the Lighting Coil on the Stator? A#31:Similar to Q#29 above, check the resistance between the single yellow wire and the single black wire coming out of the stator. Usually right near the four-wire connector at the front of the airbox on the right-hand side of the bike, you will find the two single wires with hooded bullet-style connectors. Simply pull the connectors apart, and test between the yellow and black wire that leads to the stator. Your ohmmeter should read between 0.26 and 0.38 Ohms. Q#32:How do I test the coil and spark plug caps? A#32:Locate the coil on the bike, it’s bolted to a frame rail just forward of the right cylinder. Unplug the orange and black wires from the wiring harness to the coil, and pull the spark plug boots off the spark plugs, then use a 12mm wrench to remove the coil mounting bolts. Many bike shops and dealerships have a bench tester for coils, if they’re nice they might just test it for free...in addition, resistance tests may test OK but the coil can still be bad, so if possible have it bench tested or swap in a known working coil to be 100% certain, even if you gotta pay a little bit for it. To test the coil, use an ohmmeter to first measure the primary side resistance between the "+" and "-" terminals that connect to the wiring harness, you should have between 0.28 and 0.38 Ohms. Next test the secondary side resistance between the "-" terminal and the connector inside EACH spark plug boot, you should have between 4,700 and 7,100 Ohms in each one. If the secondary side test shows an open circuit (infinite resistance), remove the spark plug cap and test directly to the wire, if you then get the right resistance, replace the spark plug cap and test again; if it's still infinite the cap is bad. If you still show an open circuit at the end of the spark plug wire, remove the wire at the coil and test again; if it is still infinite Ohms, the coil is shot, if not the spark plug wire probably is bad. Q#33:How do I test the handlebar kill switch? A#33:Using an ohmmeter, test for continuity between the black ground wire and the white & black wire, when the switch is “off” there should be continuity between the two wires, when the switch is “on” there should be an open circuit. Find the connector for the handlebar kill switch and light switch, usually located around the bottom front of the fuel tank (you may need to remove the fuel tank to get to it). Depress the little plastic retainer on the connector and disconnect the two connector halves. Put the ohmmeter test leads on the black and white wires on the switch side of the wiring harness, with the switch set to “on” you should have infinite resistance or an open circuit (no electricity can flow). When you turn the switch “off” you should have continuity or a small amount of Ohms indicating that the circuit is complete (electricity can flow through). Q#34:How do I test the key switch? A#34:Similar to Q#33 above, EXCEPT the key switch works just the opposite; when the key is “on” there should be continuity between the black & white and the black & red wires on the switch side connector, and when “off” there should be no continuity. On the wiring harness side of the switch (don’t ask me why the wire colors are different or why there are four wires on the switch), the CDI needs to have the black & red wire grounded to the black wire to run, and when that circuit is opened it will shut off. See Q#60 on how to eliminate the key switch. As above, test the key switch by checking for continuity between the black & white and black & red wires, except when “on” there should be continuity and when “off” there should be no continuity. Q#35:How do I test the voltage regulator? A#35:Check the blue wire connector and the black ground eyelet on the voltage regulator’s frame mounting bolt. If that’s OK, and your headlights explode when you hit high RPM, it’s probably shot. To test the voltage regulator, you'll need to rig a tachometer, and test the DC voltage at one of the headlight connectors at two different RPM's while the motor is running. Remove one headlight connector by depressing the little plastic retainer and disconnecting the connectors. Start the motor, turn the headlight switch on to "high" beam, and have someone hold the throttle keeping the motor at 2500 RPM. With your DVOM (an ohmmeter won't cut it here, you need a meter that can test DC volts) set to test DC voltage, touch the red test lead to the yellow wire on the wiring harness side of the headlight connector, and the black lead to the black wire in the same connector; it should read 11.5 Volts (if the reading is lower, test the lighting coil, see Q#31). Now have your helper hold the throttle so the engine is turning 8000 RPM, with the meter test leads on the same terminals you should read 16.3 Volts, if it is above this reading the voltage regulator is toast. If both tests check out OK, repeat the whole test with the red meter test lead on the green wire, with the light switch set to "low" beam. You should get the same readings, if the voltage higher than specified, replace the voltage regulator. Q#36:How do I test the wiring harness? A#36:Using an ohmmeter, check for continuity between connectors for each wire color. Simply unplug the connector at each end of the wiring harness that you want to test, and put one ohmmeter test lead on the terminal for the same color wire on both ends. For example, if you wanted to check the wiring harness between the stator and CDI, unplug the connectors for each, put one test lead on the red wire terminal at the stator, and the other test lead on the red wire terminal at the CDI. You should have continuity between the two, then move on to test the green wire, then red & white, then green & white. If you have continuity for each wire color, then you know the harness is intact. If you do not have continuity, first make sure the terminals are secured to the wires at the back of the connector, and that the terminals are clean (no rust or dirt inside the connector). If there are no other visible problems, chances are the wire that has no continuity has been severed inside it’s insulation somewhere and will need to be replaced.

Have you checked the resistances that hopedupandcutdown posted? If the resistances are correct, then no problem with the stator. Lighting part of the stator is different than the ignition part. Have you checked every wire in your harness for continuity? Did you ever check the Run/Stop switch? check the wiring diagram at http://www.dfn.com/agservices/elecfaq.html

32/(640+32)=0.0476 16/(640+16)=0.0244 0.0476-0.0244=0.0232 Maybe I am doing something wrong. Please correct me. Edit: I just realized that my math only works if you ADD the oil to 5 gallons of fuel. ie Final volume equals 5 gallons plus the amount of oil added If you put your oil in the jug first then add fuel to the 5 gallon line ( final volume being 5 gallons (640 oz) including the oil) then you are making a 5% (19:1 or 608 oz fuel to 32oz oil ) and a 2.5% (39:1 or 624 oz fuel to 16 oz oil) solution. Then he would have only added 2.5% too much oil. v/v%=(volume solute/(volume solvent+volume solute))x100% so (oil/(gas+oil))x100% = volume% oil

Seriously, be happy he even added oil, let alone too much. Lets do some math! So, 20:1 means 20 parts gasoline to 1 part oil, 20+1=21 total parts. 40:1 means 40 parts gasoline to 1 parts oil, 40+1= 41 total parts. Take 1/41 to get 2.44% oil and 1/21 to get 4.76% oil. So 4.76%-2.44%=2.32%. So he added 2.32% too much oil. This effectively leaned your jetting by 2.32% due to the displacement of the fuel by the oil. I very much doubt a 2.32% change in your jetting is going to do anything unless your jetting was very lean to begin with. Edit: "So he added 2.32% too much oil" is incorrect. He added 100% too much oil. It should have said, "The fuel contained 2.32% too much oil"

Probably ebay specials that were all around a few years ago

On stock carbs there is a tube that connects the carbs for the choke. PWK carbs do not have that tube. That is what I was referring to.

Bad/old fuel? Try turning the idle screws in until you just see light through under the slide. Probably try a lower pilot. Have you tried starting it with the chokes on?

I think he said he had pwks, so no choke crossover tube. But good call on the rags! Easy to overlook.

Did you ever check the pick up gap? Have you tested the plug caps for continuity?

Looks good. Did you get a pump to adjust the shocks?

Check the pickup gap. Needs to be .018-.020"