Keno

Just to rule out something easy, When in neutral does it roll easily? if not, it could be carrier bearings.

If there is spark on one side the stator and cdi are fine due to the banshee being a wasted spark ignition. Cut back the spark wires. New Plug Boots NGK LB05F Make sure there isn't a plugged jet. Sync the carbs

There must be some variation in the Alba ones, my kicker has only gotten stuck a couple times. Once you get used to kicking with your heel, it is no problem.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/forum/61-for-sale-complete-bikes/

Is this a Ricky stator? No, I do not believe so. Does anyone have a pickup they can part with? I do not and I have no experience with aftermarket ones. Ricky Stator Sells them for $50. You could also borrow the pickup off your other coil. Why do some winding have cream coating and some don't? The cream coating is epoxy soaked cloth to protect the super fine wires that power the ignition. That stator doesn't look bad, The windings look pretty orderly compared to the aftermarket one I've seen. So I'd keep looking for a pickup and test it out.

Claudia's

What did you do when you "cleaned it down real good"?

Welp, I suck, didn't make it there. Too much family shit for Easter. Would have been nice to meet you guys. I may be going next weekend. BTW sxs=gay

BTW, this is the type of impact driver you want. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_TbQVAbXDZZ371

I should be there that Saturday

Post a picture of the leak. The fuel tank is probably made of high density polyethylene. Not much sticks to it. The best choice would be to use a hdpe welder and filler rod. Alternatively, I believe there are a couple hdpe specialty glues that require you to flame the area before use. I have no idea on their fuel resistance. If you use the glue make sure all the fuel is out before you flame the tank.....

I will help you once you stop yelling.

The transmission will be fine sitting without oil. If sitting for a long time the clutch may kinda stick together, but will usually separate once put into gear.

The lockout was replaced last summer due to it being messed up when the basket broke. I double checked it and the arms move freely. Pancake was adjusted properly. actuator arm lined up to arrow when just touching pancake to pressure plate. I always run a little slack on the clutch lever. I did notice some wear on the washers on both sides of the spacer, also my basket bushing had some wear lines. I'm wondering if I distorted it a little when pressing into the new gear. Anyways, New washers, Spacer, Bushing & kicker gear, Chariot basket, Center Hub, pressure plate. Ended up going with Barnett 401-90-047015 steels and Vesrah vp-2041 frictions (equivalent to 4H7-16321-02-00) I'll report back in a few months or if/when something breaks again. Thanks for the help.

I may be down a day or two that weekend. I'll know as it gets closer. It would be me on a banshee and 1 or 2 others on ranchers.

Less than 0.001" runout

0.026" end play. Or were u asking with basket?

Regular Finger style from Mattoon. The fingers just have the m6 nut and screw on them. I can weigh them on Thursday if you would like an exact weight in grams. Busy getting ready for a pathophysiology test so won't be able mess with it till then. Edit: it's a Mattoon, but same style as direct drive, couldn't remember which it had.

Also, I feel honored that one of Zillas first posts in over a month was about my stupidity. I was starting wonder where he went.

Sadly, zilla is probably right. My first problem was the stock basket, the second problem was the regular springs. The third problem was the tusk clutch. Live and learn. I'm installing another Driveline clutch, just with stiffer springs. I may play with adding weight to the lockup if needed.

Easiest way is to use tapatalk on your phone for pictures.

Appears to have been worth the money. Matching rear Elka Shock?

My bike came with the stock lines zip ties to the arms. So there's that way to mount them. And no, they were not attached to the little bracket on the frame.

Get a Multi-meter. It'll make testing your switches and wires sooooo much easier. Also be sure to check your stator.