WALZ

F-it, no use reinventing the wheel. just ordered the Clarke and billet cap direct. problem solved goodnight!

Maybe a bit ghetto but at the moment I'm thinking about a 1.X gallon rectangular tank that I could stealthy put somewhere. On dirtbikes Acerbis makes one to replace the number plate, maybe it would fit behind the front bumper. Wish I had the time and knowledge to extend the stock tank shape to where the stock airbox would normally be. Quite a bit of room and perfect center of gravity. Love the stock appearance of the Clarke but could don't care for the bulge at the fuel cap. So far Clarke does appear to be the best option.

Is that a regular banshee billet cap or proprietary to the Clarke tank? Looks clean Sandking, I'd be proud of that one. The sled guys actually use hoses that siphon from the secondary but that sounds like more trouble than its worth. A stellar idea and trick no doubt but not something I would do for play riding.

Never mind found a thread with the blue one. Think I'll go for the Clarke ball-buster special unless someone has a better idea? 5.5 is likely larger than I need. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/143552-clarke-or-ims-55-gallon-fuel-tank/

Looking for pictures of the oversized Clarke tank installed, preferably blue. Also interested in other fuel storage ideas short of a backpack since I am partial to the OEM bodywork. My current fuel storage is my girlfriends Banshee, just looking for something more permanent

....and we are back on track

My god this thread lost any kind of direction it ever hoped to have

actually sold it quite quickly. If I want electronics and tuners I'd join a different forum. What have you got that puts you on the next level?

Mod the sleds always and this can be achieved easier by simplifying. Still love old banshees, still love old P-Tek HO's and respect the sound a yamaha tripple.. The f-ing point is mix 40:1 +/- 25%. gas and 2 stroke oil is pretty standard unless dragging 4 pokes but I wouldn't on one of those boat anchors in the mountains.

Since when are we talking about idle? .... I can't read this thread anymore, too painful. Please give up.

This just in from Alaska, "no they most certainly do not". You can bypass the oil injector crap and I've found 40:1 works well.

Water will turn oil grey...and more water turns it in to milky white elmers glue. That has been true for my enduro bike that gets an oil change every ride. Too many unknown variables to comment on your viscosity/oil type.

16:1 is asinine, end of story. I am curious about the heart of the question though. Lets say 32:1 vs 50:1, is there merit to the theory more oil is leaner? 40:1 all day everyday in my banshees, R's and CR's has treated me well but I ride with a handful of owners with modded quads that fun 50:1 due to this theory.

Edit: $500 minimum and $1,000 or less. Please do yourself and chassis a favor by not running stock fronts on plus 2's at 330#.

From a guy that has raced motocross for 20 years, values suspension over all other mods and rallies the shit out of a Banshee in the dunes: I disagree about the YZF shocks being garbage (I run the 2014's). Couple qualifications: Front joints can't bind so either use use LT arms (albas work well) or shorten shock then revalve to match weight/riding. The $300 shocks and a $130 revalve then I believe these shocks perform as well or better than the Elka stage 3. Stock rear shock is an older style Ohlins so revalve and spring then there are no disappointments. The multi-year elka blowout sale currently at $1,000 for 3 is a great no fuss option as well, assuming you buy direct or your distributor purchases direct and tailors for you (I'm Leary that some large well-known companies don't). My answer: spend $1,000 on either rebuilding what you have access to or the Elkas. Float Evol's or equivalent priced is overkill for the weekend warrior. Might as well start your campfire with $100 bills. Let the bashing begin!!!

I wouldn't trade my Serval for any other, love the motor for power delivery and looking forward to reliability. Gotta feed the ponies, or trade them for economy. I don't think that is a "serval" specific phenomena.

I'll second that. Oregon dunes average 7 miles long and 3ish wide so 15-18 miles on a stock tank goes too quick. I'm addicted to the serval power delivery with Cam's tweaks. Also won't sacrifice style for a desert tank. I bring 36" of fuel tubing and fill the girlfriend's stock Banshee, she is my mid-flight tanker, definitely a "keeper" i'd say. BTW: where are you finding a dual pingle valve with reserve?? Sitting on a gold mine with that product.

Cool, thank you SheeRider for the picture that does add a perspective. I hope I don't have to mount mine that high but I will try it before I knock it. At least now I know what to be conscientious of as far as making sure the shifter is returning. Appreciate everyones time.

I'll take your bet Loco and gladly pay $20 if I'm wrong

You guys rock!! Thanks so much Cam, I know your time is valuable and did not want to bug you. I'll bet my boot hangs underneath in anticipation of the next shift during race circumstances. It spins the 22" paddle extremes hard so gearing up could help too. I'll work on both and look forward to Winchester August 8th to run it again. Never knew 4 wheels could be so fun!! grew up in the dunes since the 80's and this quad is a whole new animal for me.

I've got one weekend on a full build (do it right here is my checkbook) from Redline: -Ported serval, race gas set up -New max load/TZ bearings -New Straight cut gears -New billet basket & lock up clutch -Everything else replaced in engine that Cam wanted to do. I'm new to this high of HP Banshees but have 20 years motocross experience. Question: Raced a few people on a hill in the dunes and damned if I can get a consistent smooth shift to 3rd gear. Thing has been a blast, is super smooth sounding and shifting for non-abusive riding but when I drop the clutch in second and go to bang 3rd & 4th (mostly 3rd) I sometimes have to take a couple stabs at it which sucks when racing. Do I need to change the way I shift somehow? I changed the oil mid-weekend and use high quality synthetics, see through cover and I would never let the oil look broke down or milky. Appreciate your time.

Looking for a 6" swinger built tougher than average. Black or chrome in excellent condition. If there is nothing on the used market I'll pony up for a JL MX style arm at $515 new. I'm not finding anything in the new market that compares to that one, unfortunately lonestar/houser seem to stop at 4" and cost nearly double. Also will need a shock. If by chance you have something with a 9+ lb spring that has been revalved and is fresh I'd pay about $250, otherwise I'll send mine off.

Great communication and quick shipping. Thanks

Mobs the powder, too much ski pressure to run trails. Make sure you get a short shift trans like an mx bike unless your going turbo. We have tried 500 cr's and kx's and just about every Ktm we thought would exell. Fuel injected four strokes mx bikes reign in the mountains. I sure as hell wouldn't prefer four stroke for anything else (dunes etc)

Mobs the powder, too much ski pressure to run trails. Make sure you get a short shift trans like an mx bike unless your going turbo. We have tried 500 cr's and kx's and just about every Ktm we thought would exell. Fuel injected four strokes mx bikes reign in the mountains. I sure as hell wouldn't prefer four stroke for anything else (dunes etc)