camp0429

I can't remember now which one it was, I do remember something about import and if I remember right I think it maybe was 16psi. I got the part number wrote down somewhere. Radiator was not over filled, I put the cap on and away I went, probably didnt have an hour run time and coolant started pukin out the over flow. It wasnt hot at all, wasnt even runnin it too hard. I put the stock cap back on and all was good. I tried it a couple more times and it did the same thing. Kinda pissed me off since I just spent $40 or so on it and cut up my stock radiator cover so I could see it.

Damn, thats a long time. The only other thing I would change about it would be for it not to flash back and forth from highest temp to the actual temp. I mean, it's cool to know the highest temp, but I would prefer to push a button to see it and would rather it stay on the actual temp. Kinda screws me up some times when you glance down at it and it shows the high reading

I can verify that the Mr. Gasket temp cap is junk, I ran one for about an hour before it started puking coolant out the over flow. Put stock cap back on and no issues. I tried the temp cap several times with the same result. I went with the TTO temp gauge, been installed for about a year with no issues at all. The only thing I think is kinda silly is it don't turn off. Supposedly the battery lasts a long time, but I would think an on/off switch wouldn't have been a bad idea.

Nothin like watchin the ground approach at a very high rate of speed just knowin the last thing thats gonna go through your head is your ass

Uh fuck that job.

Not sure about the 450's but most all Honda throttles, utility or sport quad are the same. Do a little search on it, it's a much better throttle than Yamaha. You can find them pretty cheap.

Honda throttle ftw

I've heard tell from the old timers that the old 2 stroke Detroit Diesel 6V92's will run backwards, suck in crankcase oil and run away until they scatter themselves. Obviously not the same as a Banshee engine but still a 2 stroke

It's there to not let the engine rev if the parking brake is on. More useless garbage

Like Tricked said it's the parking brake saftey switch. Follow the wire about a foot from the perch and you will find a plug, un plug that and your good to go

Just run the overflow hose straight from the radiator and zip tie to frame down to about your a arms

And probably need to bump your mains up a couple sizes and plug chop from there

You will have to secure your wiring harness different since the harness would normally be held by the airbox. Make sure you watch the little tabs on your frame for the airbox, they will rub a hole in the pods and may need cut off. You may need angled pods, I have PWK 28's and straight pods fit decent

Bowl with the brass jet goes on choke side, make sure to put your choke tube back on when you put carbs back on, depending on the temps where you live you may want to bump the mains up a size or 2 if it's colder there. Trash coolant overflow bottle, if you are puking coolant out the overflow, you got a problem.

I use stainless pot scrubbers for packing. Steel wool type shit, pick it up at wally world

Sweet. We might be headed to LEOR again this spring

Did you get that thing put together yet?

Told ya to port it when you had it apart!! Welcome back btw

I would make sure your crank is welded and within spec before I worried about much else at the moment

Only takes 1/10th of a second for a small piece of shit to get stuck in the float needle

You should be way rich with those mains and no porting

Were not really saying that your clutch is for sure sticking when cold, it is just common for that to happen. When the clutch lever is pulled the plates don't move a whole lot as it is, so if your cable is streched or your lever/perch is bent or something, it just makes it that much worse. Long story short, if it kills the engine when you put it in gear, then the clutch is not releasing all the way.

Sure it does. With a wet clutch, when 2 plates stick together in theory your clutch is not fully released. If one plate is stuck to the other then that means the steel disk between the 2 plates which rides in the clutch basket groove is going to take the rotation from the clutch basket, transfer it to the fiber disks and into the transmission. Just the same as it would if it were in gear. I am not sure what you mean by acting like a manual shift car.

Clutch plates will stick together, especially when the oil is cold. Work the clutch in and out a couple times while it's running in nuetral.