camp0429

Upload pics through Tapatalk. As far as your coolant leak, yes there is supposed to be a small bolt in that hole on the side of the cylinders. Takes a small copper washer. It goes directy into the water jacket on the cylinders

^^That and also save yourself the money of somebody else putting it together and just do it yourself. Between a Clymers and this site there is more than enough information. There is even a step by step walk through on a lower end assembly somewhere on here. There really is not much to it. If you do it yourself you will know what all is involved. One more thing is I am not knocking the shop you talked to by no means, but there is too many horror stories out there of "shops" screwing people over. If you do it yourself you will know it's done right.

There's a reason everybody says suspension first

It will leak without them. I've had to change them out because they leaked

No, your mains are not going to cause the issue your currently having, what I was getting at before is a 200 main is way too lean, even more so with pipes and pods.

Are you sure your mains are 200?

I've taken every coolant tank off of my Banshee's (2) and any friends Banshee's (4-5 or so) that I have ever helped them work on. Never had a problem with any of them. It did actually help one time because I found I had a blown head gasket because my boot got wet near where I ran the overflow hose.

^^I've ran a set of them on my Banshee for a couple years now, not bad.

Needle is probably worn, and/or float hieght needs adjusted

Look at the top of your pistons and see what size they are for sure, or measure your cylinders. You may not need new cylinders if there is life left in yours.

Cut down Pro Circuits?

Just use a flat file. Make sure to clean all the metal shavings out of the carbs

Welcome to the sickness. First thing you need is a Clymers manual, read through it in your spare time. Spend some time reading through the pages here as well. Anything you ever need to know about a Banshee is right here. Plenty of helpfull and knowledge folks here too. These things are actually stupid simple once your familiar with them. As far as your issue, git rid of that junk tors system first, go through your carbs and clean them really well. Climbing rpm's can be a sign of an air leak.

Tors and parking brake deleted?

You need fuel, fire and compression for it run (in theory). You said it has compression so start by checking the other 2

I did just go check out e bay and now see what you mean. Seems their prices have went up.

Honda was smart enough to use the same throttle assembly on a large portion of sport and utility quads. I bought an OE one a year or so ago for less than $20 shipped. Sure it wasn't pretty but some cleaning and rattle can paint took care of that

They don't serve the same purpose, the hose clamp you are referring to is to keep coolant from leaking out of the cooling system, the head o rings are to keep coolant in the cooling system AND combustion pressure out. If/when an o ring fails it lets combustion pressure into the cooling system and the excess pressure has to go somewhere, which is the overflow. Also a failed o ring can let coolant into the cylinders which never turns out good. I have a set of pistons in my shop that can verify this. A loose clamp is not going to pressurize your cooling system, actually it will do the opposite in that you loose pressure. I will back up what others have said, if your getting coolant out of the overflow you either have a bad head gasket/o ring, bad radiator cap, or your overheating.

Is this an issue that has developed recently or has it always been this way? Your pilot should be close, where's your air screws at? Go through carbs and make sure their clean, if you have stock carbs make sure choke tube is on, make sure float bowls are on correct, also make sure slides are installed correct. Plenty of info around here about these 3 things. On the left float bowl there is a small jet in the bowl for the choke circuit, make sure you clean that out as well. After all that if you still have problems, check compression.

I didn't know that, I assumed with most any carbs other than stock you had to have either reed spacers or the billet single piece intakes. Good info to know. His is stock boots with VF2 reeds. The left carb bowl drain hits the actuator. I assume this is because of the stock intakes then.

If your unsure about the history of the lower end, now is the time to split cases, send crank out for true and weld if it checks out. Your halfway there now might as well do it right

I have a friends bike in my shop right now, he's running 28's with stock intake, I believe his carb bowl touches the actuator. I went with a single piece thicker intake to move the carbs up but if your sticking with an airbox this would be a pain in the ass to get the carbs out.

They will work with the stock setup, however the left carb is very close to the clutch actuator if not touching it.

Sounds like you've made your mind up, I'll just throw this out here to support everyone's response. I switched from stock carbs to PWK 28's, I changed nothing else at the time, the throttle response was noticeable right away. Sure stock carbs will work fine with your set up, and my worked fine for the most part, but after me riding 2 different bikes both of them were ported by the same guy that did mine, and both were set up very similar to mine except they were running PWK 28's, I knew I was going to be finding a set. I can't say mine gained any power per say, but just the responsiveness was a night and day difference for me.

I was at 35 pilots on a similar set up before I switched carbs.