camp0429

Steel wool pot/pan scrubbers makes a good packing also

Have you verified your idle screws actually raise the slides like their supposed too? If it were me I would focus on one area (jetting wise) at a time. Since currently you have no idle make sure your idle screws are lifting the slides just a little, then focus on your pilot/air screw for a nice idle and clean off-idle snap. I have a similar set up as you same carbs, your jetting should be close enough to at least let it idle half ass. It’s been my experience with too lean of a pilot the engine would be hard starting and may idle for just a little and slowly starve for fuel if that makes any sense

I've had a Driveline head for several years its a good one. Fewer o rings to deal with

Farm and Sand Toys (FAST) sells a sync tool https://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/carburetor-sync-tool.html

Not sure what value's are in your area, but myself I would never pay that much for a Banshee unless it was set up better and I knew it's history better. Also the fact that the CL poster can't even type out any kind of description would make me move on right away. It looks fairly clean but mostly stock. Around me that's a $2,500 machine on a good day. Did anybody mention, it does not matter how much you put into one of these piles, they are never going to bring much money. I've bought 2 banshee's, first one was running but it was in rough shape, bought it for $1,300, added about $300 worth of parts, greased and cleaned everything, ran a leakdown and all was good, ran really well for about an hour then broke a piston. Come to find out it was on the original bore and pistons with a lot of hours. It got fully rebuilt, ported the whole deal. Second one I bought was for my wife, it was a basket case, paid $500 for it. Spent around $900 on bore, new pistons, new crank, gaskets, seals, cables etc. and its a very good running stock (except for pipes and pods) Banshee. If I had to do it over again, myself I would prefer the basket case route since I know everything was done right. A lot of bikes I see on Craigslist around me magically have a "fresh rebuild" and all are "scary fast". Even if they are freshly rebuilt you have no way of knowin if they were rebuilt right or half assed. Another problem is the market is flooded with cheap junk parts a lot of people will use especially when they plan the flip a bike.

Pretty sure its an LB05F or E. One you can use with the little cap screwed on the plug and the other you have to take that cap off

You can get new caps that screw right onto your wires from any parts store. Can't remember the NGK number for sure, (I'm at work now have new caps at home in the box with part number on it)but its like LB05EF? or something along them lines, You can get standard caps or with 5k resistor.

I wouldn't be scared to get another 35 and run it since you already have one. If you decide to try 28's or 33's in the future you could always re-sell the 35's and get a smaller set if you wanted too.

I used steel pot scrubbers. Cheap and can be picked up locally.

It will be fine without the tank. Once the level in the radiator gets where it needs to be you shouldn't get any leaks out of the tube unless it gets hot or you have a problem.

I can offer you a bit of advice on replacing your reeds, I always use a little Yamabond to seal both sides of the reed and the intake. They like to leak there if no sealer is used.

I always trash the overflow bottles. And stock air filter set up for that matter

When I change swingarm bearings I drill and tap each end of the bolt for a 1/8" npt zerk and drill a few small holes in the bolt where the bearing rides. I've done my two bikes and 3 or 4 for some buddies and they're still fine. Just grease them every now and then

One of my back tires still has tree bark wedged in the bead from sliding into a log several years ago. You'll be fine

I have to say this is, in my opinion the sweetest Blue plastic Banshee I have ever seen. I have never been of fan of Blue plastics or graphic kits for that matter, but damn this looks sweet. Good job

If your going to own a Banshee you should really look into the sync tool to set your idle. Nice to have around so you can re-set it after anytime you mess with the carbs https://farmandsandtoys.com/ocart2/carburetor-sync-tool.html?search=carb sync

I seen one of the knock off filters split the rubber after 1 very short ride. It was installed correctly and the clamp was not over-torqued. Luckily we caught it before any damage was done. I personally would never run them but some people have decent luck with them.

I always trash the overflow bottle and just run the overflow hose out of the radiator and zip tie to the frame and come out by the a arms. Never had a problem with 6 or 8 bikes we've done this too and lots of guys here do the same. But as far as the way you say your hoses are ran, the overflow hose should in no way be hooked to the hose out of the water pump housing. That is one of the 2 crankcase vents. Theres one in between the rear motor mounts and the one coming out of the water pump housing, them 2 are supposed to be tee'd together then ran up over the steering hoop then pointed down. Most guys just block the front one off.

2 piece head such as Pro Design requires an O ring on every stud, they have ran fine for years but I personally went with a Driveline to avoid extra O rings that can potentially leak. As far as your carb question about 28's I will add my opinion, stockers will do fine but I switched to PWK28's a few years ago and noticed an immediate improvement in throttle response. I was very impressed. The reason I made the switch was because 2 of my buddies had them on their Banshee's and they too had way better throttle response than mine and all were set up similar.

The spacer inside could be siezed to the bolt also. Even though the bolt will spin it wont push out. If thats the case, best way I have found is cut the bolt with sawzall/hacksaw between frame and swingarm

You will be just fine with no air box lid. Plenty of us trail ride with no air box and pods with zero issues. Aside from that I assume by "lag" you mean its rich and blubbery in the the mid range area, try dropping your needles 1 groove

Every Banshee I have every seen usually needs a slight touch of throttle while you kick it. May not need to but it don't hurt, it's a habit for me now

Just make sure you stay away from the "K & N style" filters. They are a K & N knock off for about half price and they are garbage.

Yes it's an app

I've been running a Driveline coolhead for a few years. Quality piece. I did not see the sense in changing studs and having more o rings in order to go with a 2 piece design.