tfaith08

I can tear down, rebuild, and ship most engines back to the customer for around $350. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If that wasn’t enough proof... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

100% good info here but unfortunately, You don’t have many good options for a banshee without getting into fabricating something. I’ve tried a stick type before and it worked fine in the winter, but faded within 10 minutes during summer heat. That isn’t TOO much of an issue because most MX classes below A-class run around 4-5 laps on 1:45-2:30 tracks. Couple that with the fact that most people can’t ride for more than 10 minutes at race pace and the issue almost goes away. I run a Precision Elite on my YFZR because it is about the best you can get. The issue is that they’re around $550, but they’re something I’d put on my top 5 list for sure. Since switching to it, I’ve grazed trees hard enough to tear knobs off the tires a few times and have never had the handlebars yanked from my hands. It feels the same after 30 minutes as it does when you just roll out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Depends on how torn apart it is, but in the interest of trying MX out and building a general purpose banshee... Suspension is hands down #1, case saver, pro mod trans, VF4s, eliminate all the unnecessary shit, 4/1 rims and good tire selection, good controls, nerfs with race position pegs, adjustable axle, and basic maintenance would be at the top of my list. Beyond that, a roundhouse swingarm, KC harness, drop subframe, gripper seat, 07+ YFZ brakes, gusseted chassis, and aluminum axle components and hubs can be added to the list but don’t offer as much return for the money involved. Generally, 50-55whp over a wide powerband with comfortable controls and great tire/suspension setup will get you 90% of the way there. If you need more than that, you can drop another $5-10k into it, but you’ll never be at the advantage of the 4-stroke guys. To put it into perspective, I beat my personal lap record at a small local track (48 seconds) that I had on my built MX banshee with a bone stock YFZR on the first hot lap that I put in. The last iteration of my YFZR build let me turn a 39.9 second lap and this iteration will be faster. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Send me the cylinders if you want. I have a little downtime for the next month or so. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Isn’t the reservoir able to be adjusted within the reservoir mount on those? Damn good shocks as long as they’re dialed in right. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What stabilizer? I can tell you everything you need to know about them. CPI on what setup? Lots of things to consider there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This shit is priceless lol. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In other news, I’m 100% free on engines atm. Carbon Fiber is a different story, however. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1. Pick a builder. Redline, Driveline, FAST, Surf, Sleeper. I’ve never personally dealt Sleeper him but many have and continue to. 2. Talk to them. Tell them your budget and your goals. 3. (The part no one does) Listen to their recommendations. 4. Send the parts and write the check. Banshee builders make it painfully simple to make power. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is why I can’t lol 15 MX/general riding build https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?share_fid=44776&share_tid=270905&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Eyfzcentral%2Ecom%2Fforum%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D270905&share_type=t Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Wish I had $7600. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alba doesn’t set them up. They just send the numbers and Elka builds them. The v alving is usually off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

They should be the same for all shocks. PM me if you need help. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ehh... Elka is reputably bad at setting shocks up. Set tire pressure, set ride height, set alignment, set compression, set rebound. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can lock the front tires up with a stock setup, but you’ll want the extra power on an MX track because us easier to lock them up. It’s a non-issue until atm pump kicks in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Info is correct for YFZ calipers but you can use an 07 and up master cylinder. 06-07 was the transition year. Go ahead and do a standard length yfz steel braided brake line setup as well because why tf not? Sand the pads with 100 grit sandpaper if they’re within a useable range. Alba nerfs aren’t my favorite. Factory 43 and AC MX are extremely good nerfs. They move the pegs down and back. It further complements the +1 forward arms and -1” swingarm. You’ll want a blaster shifter though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Don’t forget to actually take the time to set the shocks up. Poorly setup shocks can make a great build flop. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Honestly just seems like everyone agrees on the facts but nobody agrees that anyone is saying the same thing. Regarding formulas and engineering... A dumb engineer doesn't make engineering dumb. If the math is wrong, either the physics weren't applied correctly or the physics are wrong. It is almost 100% of the time the former. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'll be damned if I ever build something and don't completely torture it. That's a whole lot of money spent on caution. Then again, I'm not cool with spending money unnecessarily. I'd say build a hybrid. A long travel YFZ build is probably going to be just as good as or better than an Outlaw. You could do a YFZR hybrid. THAT would be the ticket. Buy the chassis and all my stock spares and fill in the gaps from classifieds. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm gonna have a field day with this one... You have these factors: Extended length Compressed length Spring rate(s) Compression damping Rebound damping Each is absolutely critical. Idk who said it but adjustability is also critical. I cut 6 seconds off my lap time with only suspension adjustments at my home tack. Yfz shocks will work, stock shocks will work, pogo sticks will work... but there comes a point where you have to define "work." There is no such thing as "not being able to take advantage of *this* level of suspension." Better suspension will always make everyone faster, safer, and less fatigued IN EVERY CASE. Any aftermarket shock you find of the correct length range (within less than 1/4" of specified) can be setup. The eyes are interchangeable. Fox does not make a 20.5" shock for a yfz, a 20.5" shock for a trx, a 20.5" shock for an LTR... they make a shock of a specified length and sell them with a bag of inserts and different valving. Any can be used in another application once different eyes are used and the valving and spring rates are set. If I was to buy your bike, I'd sell everything you bought. None of it is useful for mx. If I had a banshee with only suspension mods and a stock engine and pipes and a banshee with only a built engine of any amount of hp, I'd use the first one if my family's ability to eat depended on me winning. T5s are the best at one thing: convincing you they are good pipes. Pro circuits, SLP, PT Mids, or another mx pipe is going to be a far better option. You want the centerline of the tire as close to the lateral center of the ball joints as possible. More width via rim spacing is flat out dangerous. Even with a 4/1 rim, a stabilizer is often needed to combat what you're going to see on a track. Nice bumpers, skidplates, bigger tank, lights, etc. = weight. Boost bottle needs to go to the trash. It serves about as good at making horsepower as I does as an inhaler. You speak of your long term goal, but what is that exactly? I wouldn't buy alba anything. I'd buy SOME from LSR. Elkas are great ONCE SET UP. They are atrocious out of the box. Buy used and have them built and they will be great shocks. You also need: Good nerfs Gripper seat Good grips Tether Good bars Hand guards Good boots Good tires I'm sure there's more. That's the absolute basics. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The last thing you want on an mx bike is wheel spacers. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My issue with the crank is this: I'm not splitting cases and reusing a stock stroke crank. Im not doing a spacer plate build. Im not leaving the trans stock either. May as well build a good clutch while you're in there. Just build a ported 4mil up front. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You can run 21cc domes at sea level on pump gas. I had 151psi at 146'asl. I'd go with bolt ons that you can use with what you plan on it being later down the road. Aftermarket head, reeds, timing plate, SUSPENSION, NERFS. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you aren't gonna weld the crank, go ahead and assume you'll need new cases. Save the trouble and jump to a 24DM triple. AJA, I would never have a banshee engine torn down and not have the crank checked, trued, and welded. That's too easy. The way I see it is that you're going to tear it down one way or another, you may as well do it when you decide to instead of when it decides to let go. Do a pro mod while you're in there. A good crank and trans will be a VERY good base for whatever you decide to build. $400 should cover everything. Well worth it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk