tfaith08

It absolutely will. That's why a leak test actually matters. You'll end up with a 500 main (or larger) trying to get decent AFRs with an airleak, and it'll still run inconsistently as hell. Best option is to fix the leak, leak test again, go with a large jet and work down. I'd suggest a 400 and work down from there. 392 + pipes + aftermarket filter setup (I really hope) would put you above a 320. That's what I'm at with my T5s and open airbox.

Only acceptable boost bottle there is.

Due to what reason?

I'd be trying 400s and working down. Sounds like you're ultra lean to me.

Don't spend money on a Boost bottle. Best things to buy with the money required to buy a boost bottle: Leak down tester - You need it as much as you need a 10mm socket. Tutorials on how to make one are on here, Blasterforum, and E2S Cascade chain slider - you'll wear your roller out or your swingarm underneath. It may not happen soon, but it will happen. Adjustable timing plate - because horsepower Rear fender support bracket - saggy fenders look like shit Used Pro Flow adapter - and a filter when you can and install them together (better not have to explain that). UNI for superior filtration, K&N for sand and inferior filtration Jets - Genuine Mikuni only. You'll need them when you start making more power and have to re-jet B8ES spark plugs - You'll need them when you start making more power and have to re-jet

I am in no way even remotely joking when I say that the only thing a boost bottle is good for is if you plan on using it as a tire stop. If you shove the boot ends in the dirt, they actually stay. I've never found any dyno from any build level on any banshee anywhere that showed any increase in performance with one. I could go on about the background of them and the theories of why they (should) work, but I'll save that until someone really wants to know.

In that case, I'm with nightmare on this. CPIs and 33s.

For a 4mil, get some different pipes at a minimum. What kind of riding do you do?

It won't be right away, but if it's in good condition, I'm looking for one.

What mods, what jetting, what fuel, what elevation?

Are you planning on selling the crank? Serious question.

Corrected for you lol. Don't forget the V 4th reeee vaouv seaoustem.

God no lol.

And some guy was like, "I'm making 30 fake dicks for what now?"

A dyno is the best place to get a good grasp on what kind of timing your engine likes to see. Finer tuning is best done on location. Be careful with loctite on flywheels. It can act as a lubricant while it's still wet. I screwed a crank up a few years back by torquing it to the factory spec with loctite.

LEAK TEST IT. This is a no-fail task. It isn't too common for people to still be lean with an otherwise overly large main.

What a thread. Mods, please pin.

I'm a tad lean with 320s running T5s and UNI w/o lid. There were no airleaks as of the plug chop. Your elevation is only about 600' higher than mine. I'd get some larger mains since you're running ported cylinders. Is your airbox lid off? What filter are you running? Did you do a leakdown test? Get both the 27.5 and 30. They're cheap enough to have both. Shipping will likely cost more than a pair if you order twice, so get a pair of both sizes the first time. I'm never one to give this answer, but any and all jetting questions are best answered by searching.

My race cut fronts are bowed out around the tank area. They stick out a good 1/2" more at the bottom. Some parts of them are thicker than OEM, some aren't as thick. The biggest thing is that the divider that comes up from the openings on the hood are much thicker and don't match the way the Banshee looks as a whole. It is much more rounded off and just basically doesn't fit. It looks negligible in pictures, but you'll never un-notice it after you see it in person for the first time. The openings themselves are even worse. If you took a picture of a Banshee front set, told a kid to draw it, and made a set from that drawing, you'd have maier Banshee fronts. Every set isn't like that, but you'd best bet that a lot are. It isn't that it's a completely bad product, they just have no quality control. Maier is the last manufacturer that I'd recommend going with. I'll never buy another thing from them unless I have no other option.

Broke a spring and the style is likely off. If I wasn't already about to be pretty deep into re-doing the quad, I'd be getting them.

Just to recap... I got some triples w/res that were set up for 200lbs (I'm at 220) for a good deal. I'm about to have them re-worked because I'm maxing them out, which occurs much less frequently than before. Other than extremely hard riding, they do great.

= I concur.

Is there anyone in the southern Alabama, SE Mississippi, Eastern Louisiana, Western Florida, or anywhere close enough by to drive to the 36569 area code? I have a good sand pit to ride and need more people. This will stand for at least the next 2 years. Other than the dunes, I have 2 decent woods trails that are open outside of hunting season (deer). These are on family land and will be open for several, several years. Each place is free to ride in. I have limited free lodging available as well. PM me for contact info and details.

What mods do you have? What is your elevation? Why did you do the top end in the first place? Was the ignition problem present before the top end rebuild? A bad gauge won't read consistently. Try the cylinders again. If they read 120 and 100 a second time, you have a consistent gauge. Have you broken the top end in yet? At what point in the life of the current top end did spark become a problem?