tfaith08

The crown is designed to mimic the dimensions of a well cut dome while paired with the stock head. Combine that with custom domes and you could have a negative squish band. Advance the timing and you're hosting a detonation orgy. I'm not 100% sure that the relief impairs the flame travel, but I'm sure it doesn't help. I mean, you have 2 raised edges which the flame will eddy across both during burn and when the exhaust port opens. When the piston approaches TDC and compresses the AFM, it now doesn't have only one place to go. Now, the mixture is divided, with a portion being superheated by the high edges that see all the flame action. Not to mention that the flame doesn't have quite the wedge-effect over a good 30% of the piston crown. The way I see it is that Vito's had a great idea and put some research into it. They improved on the porting and squish band and offered the pistons for less than the cost of a low quality port job. Thing is, if you actually perform the modifications that this is intended to mimic, you'll see a LOT more than the claimed 8hp of the Vitos SS piston. OP, we (or at least I) was aware that you didn't want to drop the money on shipping and porting. We just recommended it because it will absolutely be worth it. OR, you can keep an eye out for a set of ported stock cylinders on here. They usually go for $250ish w/o pistons.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a 4mil with 795s and a spacer will result in 4mm more exhaust port height over the piston crown. If that is the case, you'll be making great top end, but you'll be pretty deficient on low end power. Don't get the Vito's pistons. They'll give you a nice gain, but they won't work well with custom domes or any decent builder's porting. Matter-of-fact, don't get any pistons until you have the cylinders off and shipped to a builder. If the builder recommends you have the cylinders bored, buy pistons through that dealer. Just save up and send the cylinders to a good builder. As for custom domes, I know that Redline and Noss Machine does them. Redline charges $85/set. BUT, you need to look at something. Of all the guys running some very strong bikes, they all have high-quality parts. You can get some things off of ebay, but you have to be very selective and do research. Get these: Custom domes for pump gas porting VF4s Power lid

Just placed the order. The guy at ATV Galaxy told me that the Elka link needs the Elka shock that is made for it. Since I don't know where I'll be sitting in the next several months, I went with the stock link. If nothing else, I can draw something up on CAD and have it made or sell the rear and go with the full Elka rear. Also, he recommended that since I ride a variety of environments, I should get a cross-country setup. Makes sense to me. He also stated that trails and dunes are similar, but dune setup offers more roll.

Last thing... I plan on running the elka link in a few months. Would the ride be that far off if I ordered the rear shock to be setup for it but still run the stock link while I'm waiting for it?

May be attending and bringing some friends.

That's what I'd check.

PD domes won't give you the gain of custom domes. I'd also recommend getting a grizzly flex shaft grinder and some carbide bits to port it yourself (less than $100 total). You won't see the gains that a professionally ported cylinder will, but it'll be a nice alternative if you research and take your time. +1 on the power lid as well if you don't want to run an open airbox. Also, I wouldn't recommend going with aftermarket pistons just for more power because you'll be disappointed. Larger carbs likely won't do anything for bottom end and lower midrange on a smaller engine without portwork. You may see some decent power, but the amount of money spend on carbs could be a large chunk of the money for a good port job.

Get rid of the boost bottle, run an open airbox, get some VF4s, and run custom domes for your choice in fuel. Another option is to watch for a set of ported stock cylinders on here.

I'm gonna go with the Laeger LT and 3x Elka stage 3 with the rebound adjustment upgrade on the fronts. The total will be $2285. I do have a question though. I ride dunes, tight trails, play ride, and ride really fast trails. We don't ride any one area more than any others, so I'm having a tough time deciding on what to tell them for the shock setup. Would a trail setup do well in the dunes? Would a dune setup work well in the trails? I guess the ultimate question would be which setup will do well in all environments?

Leak test, compression check, then tear the head off to check the bore. No need to tear everything down if it doesn't need it. +1 on not boring for performance.

Fixed.

I think I'll be going with Laeger arms. Without the bundled price, everything would be around 3200. That's 65% MSRP for a pretty good setup. Will the LT rear shock work without the Elka link?

I had a local shop service the shocks. They are set up to my weight as well. The best way I can describe what I mean by finding the limits is by saying that when I really push the bike, I have trouble getting the front end to grip on corner exit and over rough terrain, and I do occasionally bottom out with moderately sized jumps (falling flat from 10' or so). The lack of adjustability is a big problem for me. I also broke the bottom spring on the last ride we went on. The largest factor in my decision is that I need the tires to stay planted. If the Fireball arms would work better than the Laeger arms with their respective length Elka 3s, I'll go with them. This is how I see it right now: All 3 Elkas - 1495 & free shipping Above + Laeger as a kit - 2085 & free shipping That equates to $590 for the Laeger arms. Fireball arms are $650 (+shipping?) Is the $60 worth going with Fireball? I was thinking of the YFZ setup because I was largely uneducated in the different a-arms and shock offerings. I've since ruled it out. However, all of the other things you posted were good info and were right along the lines of what I was looking for. The decision now is between Laegers and Fireballs on the Elka 3s. Not with this purchase, but I'll be getting it soon. I'm going to include that info in the details whenever I do place the order for the shocks.

Well, though I know the value of saving money to buy a higher end setup rather than buying something that's only good enough, I can't justify spending as much as 6k on suspension as a recreational rider. I have ruled out the EVOL shocks because I don't want to limp home with an unsupported tire in the case of a seal blowing. I have ruled out the Axis shocks (my initial choice) because of the price. I have ruled out Works because I have found the limits of mine. That leaves me with Elka. As of right now, I know that the Elka 3s are going for an amazing price and that ATV Galaxy has a sale for all 3 shocks and LT Laegers for under $2100. They are also offering all 3 Elka 3s w/o arms for $1495. What I don't know is what each arm manufacturer has to offer over the other in terms of performance. I also don't know what setup information to give ATV Galaxy in the case that I do go with arms for YFZ LT shocks. In the end, my goal is to get a little more than I'll ever need for an obtainable price. I was told that Works triples would be sufficient, but they weren't. I'm trying to avoid spending $2k on something that won't be enough.

I've found the limits of my stock arms and works triples w/res (setup for my weight) and need to upgrade. I ride tight trails, fast trails, open areas, and dunes. ATV Galaxy has a special for the Elka 3s front and rear set for $1495 right now, and I'm considering going with those, but I have other ideas as well. If ATV Galaxy would do it, I'd like to get a YFZ front set and Fireball arms, plus a banshee rear shock. My last option is to go with a Banshee specific long travel setup, but that'll be a pretty good bit higher. Thoughts?

Decent arms, works shocks (or better if you can afford it), revalved rear shock, good tires. What pipes do you have? +2 on budget.

Porting for what? Drag? Technical trails? If you go in without a plan, you'll come out broke and half as fast as you could have been for the money. Are you wanting an all around quad? Trail bike? Dune bike?

First purchase: Leak down tester. Second purchase depends on budget.

First task: punctuation and sentence structuring. Second task: Leak test

For some reason I was thinking it was an aftermarket monoblock. Yeah, I doubt you'll ever touch a 400 main running gas if you just have the 68mm sleeves.

Mine were like that when I got mine and have been that way ever since. The stamps on T5s are just very slightly uneven. Not sure about yours (looks like T6s from what I can tell).

I have one also. If no one above me has a deal that follows through, I could really use the money.

Needs carb jetted rarely means just that the carbs need to be jetted. More often than not, it means that there are quite a few problems that the owner couldn't identify and rode it anyway, and he's telling you that all it needs is jets. If you can get pics, that'll help the decision A LOT. They are also still in demand in many places. I actually talked to a guy today that's looking for one. The other option is to part it out. You can make money on parting one out.

No, that's not me lol. My last name is Faith. Does this Stockton guy talk about nitrous a lot or something? EDIT: Just saw OP's name. I'll go away now.

Who?