tfaith08

Not as bad as registered user's post dig a few months back from 2006.

It's regional because there's nowhere to ride down here. The market is nonexistent. Halls motorsports has had the same 450R for over 2 years on the floor. Nobody races or rides fast, only jacked up and LED covered with speakers on back. On a slightly unrelate topic, the fastest 3ci hot saw builder in the world lives in Jackson Alabama. 6 consecutive Stihl Timbersports championships. He knows how to build a 2-stroke.

I told some guy on facebook with a transmission issue to google "transmission hard to shift bansheehq". That was 3 days ago. I wonder...

This thread is memorable.

T5s are not easy to ride in the trails. When we ride on my track, I can't touch my buddy on his YFZ or my cousin on his 250R until we get to the 2x 1/8 mile straights or the 1/4m straight. Before that time, they're a good 100' ahead of me, but I catch up pretty well. I would recommend PCs. Hard tires that aren't razr 2s? Duro Hookups. I bet I can run mine without issue with 1psi. An area that you didn't mention is suspension. I'd throw pipes and a PF adapter on that banshee and start looking on ATV Galaxy for a suspension setup in your price range. Just sayin.

How much just for the calipers? Is that a YFZ master cylinder?

I didn't think about that until you mentioned it, sheerider. The last time I looked up anything to do with MX, XC, etc., almost every single rider was using Evols. Again, that could be that it's easier to carry around a bunch of seals than it is to carry around a bunch extra shocks. It must also be nice to just have to pump or bleed for a better setup than respring and revalve every time. I imagine it has as much to do with time for adjustments and repair as it does performance. For whatever reason, you'll see Evols more than anything else. Plus, they're cheaper than Stage 5s and Axis.

If you're serious about riding and have the cash for works, just go ahead and save up for some Elka, Axis, or Evols. I outgrew the Works triples w/ res about 2 months after getting them.

I paid 2285 shipped for the Laegers, front and rear Elka 3s with added rebound adjustment, brake lines and clamps, and tie rods. I want to say that they're going for around $680 for a set, but the price is pretty low if you buy a kit. Look at ATV Galaxy on eBay.

I've considered cutting my seat because I can't get over the side like I can on a YFZ. I can only imagine a taller seat would make it worse, but I may be wrong. I'd vote for a taller stem or handlebars.

I ordered Laeger LTs recently and the place I ordered them from called me back and told me that he couldn't get Laeger stuff anymore. He said that their customer support and quality has diminished and that he'd highly recommend LSR for their performance and quality. He threw them in instead at no extra charge.

It still leaves a few questions though. I know a great deal about setting car suspension, but it's kind of different when you're dealing with one rear shock, the ability to shift weight, and the fact that you're leaving the ground. This is how I used to go about things: Set ride height Set camber, caster, and toe Corner balance Test drive Set sway Test drive Set compression and rebound Test drive At the end of the day, all I was ever concerned about was grip in latitudinal and longitudinal directions. I'm sure that a lot of these things apply, but there was no vertical considerations. From what I'm gathering, the majority of the ATV guys are concerned more with the vertical aspect than the other 2 axises. The article provided was great, but I do still wonder how sag really comes into play. I mean, would it be a bad thing to set the preload to have less rider sag and less compression? Is the 25% or 30% rule an absolute must when setting sag? I also never saw the mention of how front rebound transfers weight to the rear or how rear rebound can create rear instability under heavy braking, but I can't imagine that not being a factor. The trade-offs between the topics that that article addresses and what I've come from are the blanks that I need filled in.

That's the most comprehensive thing that I've seen. Thanks.

I just got my Elka 3s in (still waiting on the DC-pro arms) and wanted to go into dialing them in with a plan. Anyone have a method that they follow? The guide seems like a solid procedure, but I'm new to suspension and don't know enough about it to do it properly. Thanks in advance.

ATV Galaxy has the lowest price for all of the stuff that I've searched for in the past few weeks. Very easy to work with and very accommodating. I will absolutely use them again.

Send it to a reputable builder. They can gauge the bore, order the pistons, bore the cylinder to the pistons, chamfer the ports, and hone the cylinder correctly. Anyone who doesn't specialize in 2-strokes is likely to screw you up, whether intentional or not.

Then why are you responding? At no time did he state any intentions whatsoever. You are arguing a side that you assumed to exist right after you state that I can't assume something. If he is hell bent on using a racelogic template, he needs to state so. Otherwise, I'd advise against it until he does. He may not even be doing the work. Who knows? We DO know what he has given us and that is that he wants a racelogic template. We don't know if some dipshit advised he get one, if someone told him that they did their cylinders with one, nor anything else. I'm going to advise against it until he either tells me to piss off or until he changes his mind.

I think it needs to be identified whether the OP's principal objective is to learn, make more power, or just port it for the sake of saying he ported it. If you're learning, you can learn about 60% of that beforehand. The last bit will come when you start grinding and see that you have more questions. If you want to make more power, your best bet is to send the cylinders off. The cost of a grinder and bits can easily exceed $400. Add in the carb cleaner (10+ on your first attempt), decent vernier calipers, machinist dye, a scribe, a hone bit or hone (because you're going to nick the cylinder) and you'll be up there with the cost of some monoblocks. Dollar for dollar, porting one set of cylinders yourself is very cost ineffective. Porting 3 or more would be much more reasonable. Plus, you can't hope to create a gem on your first go. You can very, very easily make a snail with pretty ports. If you're in it for the last reason, there is a wealth of information, but none of it is consolidated. You'll have to dig for it. I attempted to consolidate it here when I first joined the forum, but a few people (namely ZillaFreak {one of his contributions are in my signature}) gave me some resistance and dropped it. The first and third reasons are good reasons to DIY. The second isn't so much of a good reason. Disclose your motives and we'll go from there.

Agreed. Learn the basics, then the specifics. Look at professionally ported cylinders and get an idea of the different methods used for the same thing. Think reasonably, plan it out, and get a decent setup and you'll be off to a great start. Just be prepared to not make an arm-ripping port on the first go.

I'd send the cylinders to a builder and let them bore it. If it needs a bore, they can provide the pistons and bore to match the bore to the pistons. Then, they can provide the gasket kit and do all the measurements necessary to cut a good set of domes for you. Custom domes > shelf domes. Don't just buy some pistons and figure that they'll work. You may have a gouge that's .5mm deep. If you purchased .5mm larger pistons, you'll be .5mm short. But, if you trust the guy you know (and he may do just fine) to do the work properly, go ahead with him. Make sure he chamfers the cylinders. The site sponsors have proven that they will do quality work whereas you're taking a chance with some guy that nobody knows.

If you're hell bent on porting it yourself, learn how to create a port map and then transfer that to a magnetic template. You can likely come up with something better than race logic.

I ordered the Laegers with Elka 3s and the rebound adjustment upgrade and they called back an hour or so later and said that they absolutely couldn't get Laeger arms. He offered to get me the Lonestar arms at no extra charge. I'm wondering how they'll work. I've heard good stuff about both.

I wish we had a TT track around here. My grandfather converted the one we'd built on our land to a hunting field. I had a blast on my LT250R back then.

http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=403 May wanna get the crank welded and a good clutch setup with that. That would save you quite a bit from not having to get it to the states.

Here's a thought: Call the site sponsors and see if they can get their hands on an extra set of cylinders for you. Explain the predicament and I'm sure they'll help out or at least point you in the right direction. I also know that Flotek used to sell his port maps for pretty cheap and would basically walk you through the process. Several amateurs ended up making more power with his port than he did lol. I know that Flotek isn't a very liked name around here, but a Grizzly flex shaft, a set of carbides, and a port map of his will get you some pretty nice results. Oh, and I believe the consensus is that VF4s > Boyesen.