tfaith08

Whoever it was sure does like to ride the corners. All shitty ports are done that way. Some good ports are as well, but not nearly as much. Sent from over there.

Don't get caught up in figures: http://www.dragonfly75.com/motorbike/portdurations.html Durations will make or break a build. Sent from over there.

Doesn't look too bad, but the intakes look like shit. Better than some RDZ intakes I've seen though. Who ported them? What dd they port it for? Did you get durations by any chance? Sent from over there.

I would personally degree it right into the trash can. Doesn't matter if you turn clockwise or counterclockwise. Sent from over there.

Degreed counterclockwise. Sent from over there.

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that a lot of it comes down to how hard it's ridden before that's taken into account. JL, roll, etc. probably build arms to account for the above average rider who actually need to consider whether they'll be packing the shock or not. A lot of people won't have to worry about cracks. Some guy that screws a double with a +4 on a shock that's setup for stock length arm and a weight 100lbs under what he actually weighs will probably run into a crack or 2, but then again, that consideration comes from a builder standpoint where idiots put their reputation on the line. Sent from my over there.

There is a finite number of things that can go wrong. You need to have the carbs assembled as per the manual. Those gold washers will cause headaches. You need to start with a leak test for a longer period of time. 10 min will suffice. After that, take the carbs apart and reference te manual. Make sure you have everything set. Google everything. Set your idle and go from there. Sent from my over there.

JL Engineering would be my choice. Sent from my over there.

That's the float valve. You can get then with a mikuni rebuild kit. Clean the seat with a q-tip and metal polish or toothpaste. Set the float height as per the manual. It also wouldn't hurt to install an inline filter. Sent from my over there.

400'asl is cutting it close with that setup on pump. Mine has started to show a few pits with 21cc domes, +4, and pump gas @145'asl. I'm with Zilla. Have the crank trued and welded, then have the cylinders ported.

OP or anyone else, text me if you're interested in the works or stock. I've got pics. 251-225-9590

I have some stock shocks in good shape and some Works triples w/res that need a rebuild for sale.

Very interested btw.

Is the carrier included in the price? If not, how much? Also, shipping to 36569 if you will.

Your suspension needs to be fully adjustable. Full aftermarket long travel would be great, but +2+1 arms and good shocks would do pretty well. As for general setup, go to a track and fix what you notice. I thought more power and better suspension was all I needed and I ended up not adding anythin to make more power over the past year. For example, not being able to see the front tires when i was close to someone really bugged me, so I got some race-cut Maiers. I started losing grip if I pushed hard at all, especially in the rear, so I went with Duro Hookups (20x11x9). That caused me to have to fight harder to get the rear end around, so I dropped the front sprocket by 1 tooth. Next, my feet started to slide off when I was cornering hard, so I got some JDS pegs. Then, I noticed that my brakes felt like shit compared to a stock YFZ, so I upgraded to YFZ brakes. I started getting sweat in my eyes, so I ordered a Fox V4 and new goggles. Then I started getting pain in my wrists, so I ordered some Pro Tapers and Rox adapter/risers and that helped a ton. My thumb soreness was next, so I cut a bit off the carb springs and used a vacuum bleeder to suck the old oil and dirt out of the lines and replaced it with new, plus I bent the throttle arm in the throttle housing so that I had a little more leverage (this was minimal). This last weekend, I hit about a 75' double and landed with my heel on the shifter. Luckily, I didn't damage anything, but needless to say, nerfs are next. I also bent my swingarm, so that's gotta be fixed as well. Just fix what you notice and you'll get way faster. I have my Elkas setup for XC, and I'm 3 clicks away from having them maxed out for MX. The rebound is almost out of adjustments as well.

That's something that I've considered over the past few days. I want as much protection as possible after a bad landing this past sunday. My issue is that I'm having a hard time finding dimensions and no one around me has any to try out.

Any idea how much they'd charge for a custom setup, even though it wouldn't be that much difference?

If you compare the 2nd picture here: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/180385-ac-pro-peg-nerfs-in-great-shape/ with post 5 from here: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/87363-blaster-foot-pegs-on-banshee/ You can see that the pegs are about 1" (or my estimate, at least) back from stock. To me, that's not enough, but it is about halfway between stock and the Blaster pegs (which is what I'd like to have in some nerfs). TBH, I dn't know which style is the newest because every place I've looked has either one picture for all models or an image search returns mixed answers on which is the newer. I know there are net-style heel guards on some and 2 different plate styles, so if one uses different peg locations, I'd like to know. Modification isn't impossible by any means, but it's a huge pain for the distance I have to drive to my tools. I have access to a welder who is setup to weld aluminum though I'd like to refrain from modification unless there is no other option.

I'm at a stopping point on nerfs. I can't find any with the footpegs moved toward the rear. I know DG will work with Blaster pegs, but I don't want to run DG and I need better pegs than stock Blaster pegs, plus I want integrated heel guards as well. Would I be best off to modify a set or is there anything that offers all this? I like F43 but can't find any. XFR, and the full AC nerfs are nice, but have the stock peg location. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/162703-my-2012-banshee-from-argentina/The manufacturer hasn't responded to an e-mail that I sent weeks ago and they appear to have the factory footpeg location. Am I in for a custom or adapted set?

Do you still have the nerfs?

This is the oldest post that I've ever seen resurrected. This thread was created 11 years, 3 months, 29 days ago.

Porting your own? Unless you have a thorough grasp on fluid dynamics (both steady and unsteady), proper porting tools that you're familiar with, 2-stroke porting concepts, and can manage to find a way to justify potentially destroying a cylinder, I'd highly recommend you leave them along. If you want some pointers, we can provide that. However, I'd recommend that you let a professional do it if your goal is to make power. Porting a 2-stroke is much more involved and has a much more dynamic thought process to it than 4-stroke porting. A port map is only a part of the equation. The port geometry (especially the transfers) are your largest concern. I had an LRD 250R port map at one point, but that doesn't mean that I'll be able to port it to make as much power as Arlan, or even make more power at all. Most people don't fare very well when they try to port on their first go and make big power, all in an attempt to save money. The only exception that I know of is some guy that got a Flotek port map from Denny a few years back and made like 70hp. I'm sure the dyno chart looked like a church steeple though. Long story short: If you want to learn, go for it. If you want to make more power, send them off. The other thing is that you may not benefit from that much power if you have things taking your focus off of actually riding. I've found that I'm much faster when I fix the things that I notice most often. My recent focus has been on a full YFZ brake swap. Next, it'll be handlebars. Next will be a shortened swingarm (maybe). These things don't make you accelerate any faster, they allow you to utilize what power you have more effectively.

^ That's the best recommendation I can think of.

For every .010 (.25mm) that is shaved (up to about .050"), you can expect a reduction of .8cc in the dome. A full .040" is equivalent to 3.2cc reduction. That would put you around 19.5-20.5cc domes. Those generally give about 165-170psi at sea level IIRC. Somewhere between 125 and 170 would be my guess, but that's a mathematical conclusion. I don't have any hands on experience with shaved heads. For a head, I'd recommend a Pro Design, Chariot, or Noss Machine. Don't use anything that requires proprietary domes. For instance, I just heard that Trinity doesn't sell domes for their head anymore (idk why you'd ever use them anyway). 35s without port work on T5s won't make that much power. 35s on cubs would be great. As for pipes, I'd go with Shearers. They'll run fine on stock cylinders and a cub.

If you plan to upgrade to an aftermarket set of cylinders, don't put the money into porting the stock ones IMO. Buy things that you'll be able to use with the cub. A good head that used PD domes is a nice addition, as well as a billet timing plate. T5s will limit the cub though.