tfaith08

The big heap of junk that the footpegs mount to can be replaced with a pro-peg insert.

Way too far. PM me. If you still have it in a few weeks, I may pick it up. The current conition works for what I need.

I need a frame in that shape. What's your location?

^^^^ x2

You've done more research as of your first post than 95% of everyone else. That kind of stuff is what will help a build be successful. A well-built 4mil can put down 80hp and have a very useable power curve. That's a lot to get bored with. If you think you'll get bored with that quickly, what were you riding before? That may help with the suggestions. Here's an example: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/175499-jdss-redline-4mm-stock-cylinder/ If you really, really think you'll get bored with that, a 421 Serval would be my next recommendation. That way, you can have it upgraded down the road with mostly bolt ons and make +95hp or more. I'd recommend a stock cylinder 4mil. Document the build with pics on here. That'll help you sell the cylinders or the entire engine if you do decide to upgrade.

Good buyer here. Hope I'm paying attention when stuff starts to sell.

FFS, why can't I find these part outs sooner. Just bought like 2/3 of the things you have listed here over the past 6 months. If I can gather some money up, you have another buyer for some more parts. Good buyer here. Buy with confidence.

That's what you mount the spindles on. Don't judge me, I'm just getting up.

Spindle mounts = a-arms.

See post #1.

What's your location? Getting rid of the frame?

Make sure those timing plate bolts are clean and tight. Mine backed out on me and I had more power than ever before, but it also spun to full advance and I ended up with pitted pistons.

My solution was to get a pressure/vacuum bleeder and push about a quart of lube through the cable. There was some dirty, slimy shit that came out of that cable. I had one bend that was worse than I thought as well. Fixed that and it made a difference.

JJA ftw.

Don't have them. I'm gonna buy them sometime soon, but I can't justify it right now with paying bills off. However, I did read everything there was to read about every nerf bar available for a Banshee. There's a company in Brazil that makes some that are world class and look better than any houser on any quad ever, but they're impossible to get in touch with. Can't remember the name of the company, but I decided on F43 after I wrote that company off.

I found it best to focus on macro changes and find a very simple, easy palce to ride and test. I ported my wife's blaster and had a little track out behind our house that was maybe 1/8 mile long with 2 turns. I knew what I could do in which gear and would annotate changes in power delivery and predictability from that. If it previously bogged in 3rd around a curve and now almost pulls, it was a good change for example. Smaller changes that will add up to a big change are very hard to notice. That's where a dyno comes in. As such, I focused on port shaping and an even surface over anything else once I had my numbers where I wanted them. I believe the blaster ended up at 192/130/128/128. Fwiw, I've never been able to notice the difference in 2 degrees on any port. A dyno would show it, but nothing that I would feel.

Factory 43 sent me this of the Banshee nerfs and bumper.

I've modeled some cylinders in the past and ran quick simulations. Unless you know exactly what to look for, all you see is that something is different; you don't really know what is going on when something does change. I got lost in the data of it. Trying to measure all the ports and input that to the sim and making changes and trying to implement that into the actual port became more of a nightmare than it was worth.

I had the best luck getting up with them on Facebook.

Vacuum is a bad choice of wording, I should have used "area of lower pressure." That would have been technically correct. I can see a lot of that taking place. I wonder the exact reason for the dip in the curve...

I don't mean to sound as though I have it figured out by any means. His 12 port setup was great in theory, but I never saw where they did that great although that was years ago. I'd always heard reviews from both sides of the fence, but I base my thoughts on what I've seen in pictures. I didn't research him heavily and heard nothing but bad about him. That's the basis of my statement. To hear that it did work out shows a solution to of some problems I've had for a long time. My thoughts may also be biased becuase I've always been taught that after the transfers have been covered up, the volume within them will be drawn to a vacuum by the vacuum created by the piston on upstroke since the crankcase isn't at equilibrium. Yes, the intake feeds that volume, but there is a vacuum within the transfer tunnels during upstroke which is where boyesens come in. If Jim's ports didn't serve the same idea, what did they serve? I didn't claim to be a heavy thinker, I said I ovethink things. I've just had more experience with other cylinders and other types of engines than I have with a Banshee. Lots of things cross over, some don't. One of the things that does cross over is keeping the transfers fed at all times so that they are uncovered with as much pressure as possible. Of all the thinking I've done on Jim's 12 port setup, they seem to target that idea more than anything. If that's incorrect, I want to know the correct answer. By definition, a forum is a place where ideas or views are exchanged. I'm going to state my thoughts. If it's misguided, state it and explain it. If it's dead wrong, explain it. I ported and worked on whatever I could get my hands on because I was out of work and trying to support my wife. I didn't do it because I was trying to topple Redline and K&T.

Not like those pictured. I've already contacted Houser about them.

Porting for flow into the cylinders is at it's peak. That's what I imagine 90% of all successful builders go for (and for good reason). The areas that I feel are untouched or not fully exhausted is getting AFM to fill the underside of the piston during upstroke, scavenging that volume during transfer opening, filling the area below the transfers (which I've experimented with to very slight avail), and reducing reversion into the intake during downstroke. Passion appeared to have touched on some of those with his extra port leading into the secondary transfers, but his numbers showed nothing promising. The guy that I mentioned earlier about the hotsaws told me that he'd experimented with styrofoam and cork stuffed under the piston and had gained a huge amount of bottom end and midrange power, but that it somewhat capped his high rpm power which is what hotsaws are all about. He also said that he didn't experiment with the porting very much to try and compensate, so there's that as well. Also, these engines see about 3 minutes of service life before being rebuilt, so there's that as well. The things that I've tried with boyesen ports is making them bellmouthed on the intake side and making them reduce in taper and open with 90° edges into the transfers. Basic fluid mechanics says that will allow flow in easier than letting it out. Combining that with different angles did show differences in bottom end and midrange power. Essentially, I found that the downward angle affected how the ports were fed at different rpm ranges. A steeper angle helped lower end power, while a flatter angle helped midrange and maybe high rpm power. My theory for this is that the AFM will flow from where it is to the transfers at a somewhat static speed as the piston leaves TDC and approaches the transfer opening. If that angle is steeper, the AFM from those ports will flow down more and end up directly below both ports at a later point, contributing to low end power. A flatter angle will put that AFM directly below both ports sooner and will contribute to power in the higher rpm ranges. This effect is also somewhat dependant on whether the lower section fo the sleeve has been removed. The size of the boyesens is also extremely important here. A larger boyesen will flow more and feed the transfers a little better, but it will also allow reversion back through themselves. Also, a larger boyesen will not be affected by the angle as much.

I race MX and XC and have decided on Factory 43. The relocated footpeg position is my biggest factor. ACPP is my immediate second choice.

ISO LSR Outlaw chassis or Laeger's with no bends or cracks. Mild surface rust isn't an issue, but flaking rust is a no-go. Color doesn't matter, can come with or without shocks. Will travel up to 1k miles from Mobile county, AL. Please text me at 251-225-9590. Any calls from an unknown number won't be answered and PMs won't be checked daily.