tfaith08

Start with the schematic for a drag cut harness. Add in the sections that you'd like to keep from there. You'll see the picture once you start getting into it. TORS, lights (to include brakes), relocate the CDI...

There is a too big and a too small. Larger volumes will contribute to even heating.

I'd get one either way. It's worth $30. It never hurts to know that your bike isn't putting away after you land on your ass with the breath knocked out of you.

Are you not reading some of the suggestions? Furthermore, what pipes are you running? Order every size main jet from 240-330. Leak test, clean carbs, set floats as per manual, sync carbs, oil filter, install 27.5 pilots (have 25s on hand), screw to 1.5 out. We will provide main jet size recommendations after you give us an elevation (google "12345 elevation", replace 12345 with your zip code) and pipe info. The items in green aren't cool little tricks or some dumb shit, they're very important steps that are crucial to tuning and the continued function of your engine. I would advise performing all of them. You shouldn't be just trying things to make them work. It's a very definite adjustment method and not a trial and error ordeal. Each fuel circuit will present with symptoms that are very specific once they are out of proper adjustment. As for the pilot being 25-30, I always bump mine up one size intentionally so that I can have a little extra fuel coming in after I have to drop the throttle to fully closed after being at WOT for extended periods of time. I make active efforts to avoid that situation off the track, but I can't tack extra seconds on a lap time becuase I want to baby my engine.

Hook a multimeter to it and check for connectivity. -If it gives connection when you press the button, tie it into the factory killswitch wiring. -If it gives connection when you release the button, tie it into the key wiring in series. Idk about most dirt bike switches, but you should buy a tether killswitch as well if you think you may ever want to run any sanctioned races. Pro armor makes a nice unit.

Jerry also clarified that my idea about the chariot head was fabricated. I could have sworn that I'd seen it... Then again, it was almost 3 years ago since I shopped for a head.

Figuring out which you need to tie into is a matter of figuring out which type of killswitch you have. If the killswitch works by breaking the circuit, it needs to be tied in series with the key. If it works by completing the circuit, you need to replace the stock killswitch with it.

You don't alter airflow to compensate for jetting. You alter jetting for your setup.

My Chariot head is one piece. I couldn't find it or any pics anywhere, so I sent him a message. It was pretty simple, just a plate cut that fit over the 1-piece chariot head and clamped down. It used extended studs. Then again, it may have been soemthing I thought up. I'd planned to buy one when I built my serval. We'll know for sure when I get a response.

Chariot offers (or used to) a top piece that supposedly adds additional clamping force and worked with their regular head. I use Chariot as well and am very happy.

Should we start providing help for a rebuild yet or should that be put off until asked?

I'm not too sure that's correct.

If it was dirty, OP would not have liked the setup. I don't like anything about the stock suspension.

Best non-engine upgrade there is btw.

Get those pro taper bars off of it, too.

The calipers are better, but not the master cylinder. Get the calipers, just hold out for the +07 MS.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/175499-jdss-redline-4mm-stock-cylinder/

Don't neglect to set the sag.

Not having any suspension mods and overstating the quality of the upgrade is one thing. Having had both is another thing entirely. What suspesnion did you have again? I have more than 20x in suspension than I do brakes and I'd still say that suspension is a better dollar for dollar upgrade.

Same shit posted back and forth like 6 times. OP, just do the upgrade.

Full nerfs ftw

Ideal setup: Calipers - $70 Master cylinder - $50 Braided lines - $70 Shorty lever - $30-100 You can find each of these for cheaper, but that's the average price you're gonna pay with shipping.

Get the 07+ master cylinder. The 04-06 is nearly identical to stock and offers no performance upgrade.