Jump to content

tfaith08

Members
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    1,505

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    22

 Content Type 

Everything posted by tfaith08

  1. tfaith08
    How many hp does my banshee have? I know stock is like 48. Sent from the whoops.
  2. tfaith08
    This kit off ebay any good?
  3. tfaith08
    If you ever lean in his direction, I'll mediate until a reliable means of communication is established. I think the gripper will help a lot with being able to relax and keeping me on the track longer. Nothing will cut seconds like more track time. Sent from the whoops.
  4. tfaith08
    I'm not a fan of it normally, but I made an exception and am glad I did. His work is on his page and Instagram. K&T used him to make a seat recently. Sent from the whoops.
  5. tfaith08
    Custom Seats of Louisiana. Site sponsor. Sent from the whoops.
  6. tfaith08
    Ultra gripper. It surely feels like it's gonna work. I'll see what it's made of in a few weeks.
  7. tfaith08
    Short and sweet. I drew the design on the seat and CSL did everything exactly as I asked. Easy to work with, quick to respond, quick to ship, quality and symmetry are top notch, materials are great. Glad you guys recommended CSL. Sent from the whoops.
  8. tfaith08
    Order 13-16 all at once. You never know what you'll wish you had on hand. A1 is for fags.
  9. tfaith08
    Long post about why not to make a post too long. Nice.
  10. tfaith08
    A vacuum/pressure brake bleeder pushing a mild cleaning agent through the cable will clean a lot of gunk out. Then a good bit of lube will do some good. The issue that I've had is that if you use something to REALLY clean the hell out of them, it will break down either the lube or the Teflon. At some level of frustration, you'll be better off to buy another but that generally doesn't come until you get fed up and say fuck it. Proper adjustment will most likely get you where you need to be. What are your immediate and long term budgets with this thing? What are your goals with it? Concerning all intents and purposes, the topic of A1 steak sauce effectively shut BHQ down for a solid week. No advice was given, no builds neared completion, there was only an A1 steak sauce debate for that period of time. A1 is for fags.
  11. tfaith08
    (In just as polite a way as possible) the most beneficial thing you an do at this point is consolidate the posts. Most of your experienced members use taptalk so they can be active on the forum while on the go. Some will see a 5 paragraph post and just skip right on by because they don't have time to stop and read it all. A1 is for fags.
  12. tfaith08
    I don't see a need for 32.5 pilots. Chances are that 27.5 is going to get it the first time. With the airbox lid at 2800' ASL, I'd try some 280 mains and work down. Without the lid, I'd try some 310 mains and work down. Factory suspension blows big time. Upgrade whenever possible (those Elkas are nice, especially for the price). Don't continue to use any flamable fluids to test for air leaks. Buy/build a leak tester. They're generally under $40. Before you plug chop, clean the carbs, leak test, set the floats per the manual, sync, get the pilot right, then needle. The very last step is to plug chop to the mains. Clean the clutch cable thoroughly and adjust as per the manual. If that doesn't clear it up, report back and we'll dig deeper.
  13. tfaith08
    What's your elevation? I'd try some 320 mains to start with. You may need smaller, but that's where most tend to end up with that setup. May want to order some 27.5 pilots to be safe.
  14. tfaith08
    Driveline
  15. tfaith08
    That's me. I personally wouldn't take it back. After a little asking around, you can still order factory carb components individually from Yamaha. You do not have to order an entire carb. Any shop with access to a brand new carb through Yamaha has the ability to see that they also sell individual pieces. From there, that's up to you as to what you do. I would drop the pilot to a 27.5 and start plug chopping at 310 and work down, but I'd also heed the other advice given.
  16. tfaith08
    A lot of mechanics do dumb shit as well. Don't base your logic off of a mass of people with widely varying levels of experience. Have you ever seen what starting fluid does to oil? Also, starting fluid will ignite whether lean, rich, weak spark, timing all off, little air, air leak, low compression... It is not a good disgnostic tool.
  17. tfaith08
    Still have to cut the stock subframe off and weld tabs on, brace the radiator mount, cut the stock bracket behind the front bumper and replace it with a single tube, and brace the lwoer stem mount. I do have a question though. The upper shock mounts seem to be quite a bit bigger than they need to be. If I was to cut them back some to clean them up, would it affect it structurally? Something like this:
  18. tfaith08
    Making progress.
  19. tfaith08
    Redline ftw A1 is for fags.
  20. tfaith08
    I don't think you're going to have any success beating a YZ450F up a hill for $1k. Those things make some serious power for what they weigh. When my bike was new and had T5s and an open airbox, I was getting beat by a YZ250F. The compression, timing, and reeds ($450 ish) didn't allow me to win either, but I was close. If I had $1k for power only, I'd save up another $500 and build a 4mil. If you have it ported, your crank may let go so you'll want to weld it. Since you have to pull it to have it welded, you may as well just go with a 4mil. Since you want to mill the head already, may as well go with an aftermarket head and domes for that 4mil. No sense in porting and a new crank on old pistons, so buy new ones. Then a clutch. Then upgrading the junk transmission. Then you're still on the stock suspension. A few hundred in upgrades can get out of hand quickly. Do it right or don't do it at all.
  21. tfaith08
    Works are nice, but I felt like my Elkas were better. At $999 new for all 3 stage 3's, that's hard to beat for a new set.
  22. tfaith08
    I disagree with that. My radiator temps rose when I added my head. That shows that it is pulling more heat. It wasn't much, but it was there for sure. Your bike, your decision. We do recommend one though. To find out what A1 is, follow the ink below and go to post #38188 and just start reading. The discussion goes on for nearly 15 pages and spans 2 weeks. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/156362-bansheehq-official-live-thread/page-2546
  23. tfaith08
    Fixed.
  24. tfaith08
    A1 = Fag sauce. That's my taptalk sig. The cheapest way I would ever consider doing a front end would be to go with arms from a site sponsor and some Elkas (all 3 legacy series for $999 new). Even then, I think I'd still wait to buy used. You can't build a good front end for under $1k. If you're paying $80 to mill the head, go ahead and add another $120 to it and get an aftermarket head and domes. Chariot, Pro Design, or anyone that Noss Machine makes a head for are all good options.
  25. tfaith08
    Just save up for a full front end. Parts selected on a budget don't often make a fast bike. A1 is for fags.

BHQ Quick Links

×
×
  • Create New...