Sheedawg28

Easy, the weight is centralized over the top of the tire whereas a quads isn't. A quad also needs more traction than a dirtbike to propel it forward due to the weight. You hit a little bump, rut or what have you on the left or right side and makes the quad bounce up on one side leaving only one tire making contact and due to it being flat and not round like a dirtbike you now instead of have 20 inches of tire grabbing went down to 1-3 inches. Also don't forget about power to weight ratio which is a huge factor and the knobbies are also double so when you've got a nicely prepped groomed track those suckers are diggin. So in reality because the dirtbike weighs less it doesn't need as much traction as a quad to beat it in a straight line. Pretty simple concept.

If that's all you did then it's obvious why your getting that effect. If your running the same tire and they are true to their sizes, that's a 2" difference in height. The 18's make your shee squat if the same suspension settings are kept, that being the preload/squat was adjusted with the 20's . So when you throw the 20's on your shee is sitting up higher in the rear therefore you spin instead of hooking up so when you throw the 18's it squats in the rear and more weight is over the rear tires and blah blah..so there you have it.

So list a tire they sell for MX that is unreasonably wide :-) Terrain, soil, hard pack and loose conditions come down to the ply rating and design of the knobby. Best width is the widest that's available that the tire manufactures and pros have done testing and came down to being the best set up which is a 10" wide tire again for Mx. Any 450 and banshee with mods can easily over power a tire and break traction all day long it comes down to minimizing and figuring out how to get it to hook or let loose when you want it to and be predictable while doing so and you have to find the balance. BTW you forgot one of if not the biggest factor..tire pressure.

We were talking Mx here when the comment was made. I don't look to see what the asphalt guys are running as I don't care to go in a straight flat line haha. I threw the funny car thing for shits and giggles.

You may have gotten things mixed up here..but the 20-22 sizes aren't used bc of the profile height and you want to be closer to the ground but not excessively and the 18-19's do that for you. Otherwise all the Mx tires are in a 10" width profile except as you saw here some actually run true to the 10" they claim unlike the Atrax.

Whaaaaaa I'm going to have to tell these top fuel funny car guys running these tires they've been doing it wrong :-) Thank ya sir!

Saw their Mx version but I was looking for a thicker knobby. They look like they'd wear too quick and have too much give in the 2-ply rating. Yea I could, I prefer motion pro. Their blue anodize is sweet.

Also decided to see what the hype was about with this Maxxis RAZR X tires and see if they're worth the $100 a piece. So the ones on the right are Atrax mxtrax and those I bought in a 19x10x9 and the Maxxis they offer them in an 18 so I went with 18x10x9...but when I put them side by side as I've known tire companies in the same sizes (at least the width and wheel size compatibility being the same in this case) will be different physical sizes which held true here. Knob to knob the Maxxis measured in at 9-1/4" where the Atrax, again from outside knob to outside knob measured 8-3/4". The Maxxis overall width was 10" where the Atrax came in at 9-1/2". So for sure more surface area will equate to more traction..can't wait to try these puppies out next week.

Pretty sweet..I've had issues with the stock brass that comes with the digital gauge so hopefully this does it or maybe I need to stop pressing so hard ha. It's magnetic and has a lid..pretty cool. Well at least you learned something I have the other sprocket and chain waiting for this front one. They take shape to each other so when you replace just one it doesn't mesh well with the others so it ends up wearing them quicker..it's a viscious circle.

More goodies..one specific to the banshee. Saw some bent teeth on the one I have now.

yes sir!

Y Sure is.

Gotcha, mine maintained almost the stock caliper orientation with the modquad carrier's brake mount that comes with it. That's what moved your calipers orientation.

Yea when I get a chance I think the easier way to determine it is if I measure the amount of remaining shaft on the shock to the bottom past the bump stop and take that to the bottom of my exhaust and if it would hit then I'd have to see how much since the bump stop wouldn't allow it to completely bottom out to that point.

It's stock length. What length is your laegers swingarm?

Thanks for the pro tip! I definitely will I'm curious myself now. But man the new set up is freaking prime! Haven't gotten it out to the track but from what I experienced this weekend it's a huge improvement. The stage 5 shock + jet getting the valving on point + the link= solid ass set up. I've never liked the valving that comes from Elka themselves I always add another 25 pounds or so and even then it's too soft. I messed with it a bit and didn't set up the sag before going out there just did it by feeling how it compressed based on my last set up and even then never came close to bottoming it out and I wasn't close to maxing out the adjustability. My bike has no problem hooking up out there with the paddles and having a -2 swinger so I can't really comment on that yet. But everything in conjunction is working amazingly. The helper/tender spring on the other shock would come close to being maxed out where as on this one he put a beefier spring so it dampens the smaller impacts a lot smoother. Can't wait to see how it feels on the track.

Hahah I know I was just yanking your chain..I'd actually have to check i would think if anything was going to hit it'd be the parking brake block off since it's not directly on top of the caliper as you know.

Caliper has plenty of room I'd say easily a foot? When compressed.

OoOoOoH yeeaa..

Swapped out the bushings on the bars for something softer in preparation for some choppy sand and realized how good the clamps look and a shame that they're hidden ha.

New valving and a stiffer helper/tender spring. I like using this company since they give you 30 days to switch up your valving if it's off.

Yea buddy! I'll get back at ya!

$500 or $5000 I'd still buy it, sexy AS FUCK!

Can you build me one and tell me it's the best money can buy?! The engine has to cost me more than 10k though that's bare minimum so I can say I have the best of the best...or at least believe that I do because I paid a lot for it.

If your building Honda's maybe, cars themselves stock cost more than any of these bikes ;-)