BrokeVW

German SKF brand crank bearings arrived, thanks much! Brian

Payment sent for the TZ bearings, thanks! Brian

I'll take them. PM the paypal address to send the $50 to and payment will be made tonight. Brian

How much does the motor weigh, and what ZIP code is it in (92227)? I would have to have it shipped to Ohio, can you crate it to securely make the trip via UPS Ground? Is there anything wrong with it? Any leaks? (carbs, casing, etc.) When was it built? Any casing damage inside or from chain? Engine, reeds, carbs, and pipes for $1500? I'm a serious buyer with money in hand, if we can strike a deal... email me at brokegti@sbcglobal.net to discuss specifics. Brian

Per Evan at RaceTech who sold me the stator and rectifier/regulator when I asked him: "Yes you can definitely use the chassis as a ground for the DC system, or you can run return wires to each light and back to the negative terminal, either way is fine." Per TrailTech .PDF instructions http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-71.pdf "Do not connect to frame ground." I'm really not sure why there is so much conflicting info about this.

I have the RaceTech 200W stator and the regulator/rectifier they include with the stator. This is the kit http://racetechelectric.com/i-10388144-95-06-yamaha-banshee-high-power-200w-dc-stator-regulator-rectifier-kit.html Right now I have the stock regulator removed, I have the 2 bullet connector wires from the stator (yellow and white) unplugged from the bullet connectors in the stock harness (yellow and black), and the stock chassis ground wire is not connected (it uses one of the bolts that mount the stock regulator). I checked for continuity between the black bullet connector and the chassis ground wire, and they have continuity. I checked from the chassis ground to the black wire that is at the key switch plug in front of the fuel tank, that plug has continuity with the black bullet terminal and the chassis ground terminal. The key switch black wire does NOT have continuity with the chassis at this point, as the chassis ground is removed and hanging in the air under the seat. The key still works and the bike still starts, runs, and turns off with the key... which I don't fully understand because I thought it needed the black wire to connect to the chassis to work. Apparently the ignition side of things does not need a chassis ground and I'm not sure why. The only wires I have coming out of the stator that are being used are the 4 wires found in the white plastic connector. It looks like I'll need to run dedicated DC ground wires all over then for the lighting and so on, thanks for the info.

I had not thought about using a 12V AC relay, I was thinking only of the typical Bosch style 12V DC relays I usually use. I had not planned to do so, the stock regulator is only regulating the yellow wire that feeds the stock headlights. Since I was converting to DC, I removed the stock regulator as I didn't think it would be needed for anything, but I can see that if I decide to use an AC relay I would need the AC regulated to 12V to protect the relay.

Can the chassis be used as ground for both the AC and DC circuits? I've read the thread with the magazine article posted about DC conversions, and I've been over the Clymer and BansheeHQ Electrical FAQ info several times, and I think I almost have it straight in my head. Please correct me if any of the below is wrong.... --The stock stator is AC only, both on the lighting and ignition circuits. --The lights operate on AC but LEDs or HIDs will not because the regular bulb filament doesn't care which direction the current passes through it or if it switches from + to - and back again, as long as it is passing current it will glow. --The lighting circuit has the voltage regulated to about 12V max to prevent the bulbs blowing. --The AC ground is on the chassis, using one of the bolts for the voltage regulator. If I have installed an aftermarket 200W DC stator and the regulator/rectifier that comes with the stator, I now have a DC circuit with a dedicated DC hot and ground. Can I run that DC ground to the chassis while leaving the stock ground for the AC ignition in place on the chassis as well? I want to use the stock headlight switch to operate new LED lights. I plan to use a relay, the headlight switch will send 12V to the relay, the relay will connect the battery to the lights. If I can use the chassis for both AC and DC ground, I can use the stock light switch wires to operate the relay if I only feed it DC+ into the yellow, after disconnecting it from the old stock AC wire. Thanks!

50% of the badassery of a Banshee originates from the dual pipe look. I would never change that. The other 50% of the badassery would be the sound. I'd be afraid of altering that with a 2-to-1 exhaust.

Our fuel is $4/gal now and heading up.... soon you'll all be able to ride blistering-fast Banshees and have them all chromed and gold plated.

Those silly fuckers thinking the Banshee is an All Terrain Vehicle! Why, those fucking fools! What ever gave them that idea anyway? The knobby tires? Did they think the seals and gaskets and rubber boots are there to protect from dirt, dust and mud? What a bunch of fucking retards! Those are all clearly for looks, and serve no REAL purpose. Everybody knows they should be ran without fenders and air boxes, errrrr'body. It's like some people think they should ride them in the rain or mud or something. Anyone will tell you they aren't any good at anything but straight line runs, they require rebuilding every 38 minutes of run time, they blow up 100% of the time if you take them in the mud, and pockets on shirts are for faggots. Yep.

Get out more then. They're handy. My airbox drain plug thing is always put in my front shirt pocket when washing the Banshee. I never remember to remove it before hand, so I notice it with the hose in my hand and pop it off and into my pocket so the box can drain. Without a pocket, I'll lose the plug, dirt and mud will get in, my engine will be fucked, and all because YOU fail to realize the importance of a front shirt pocket. Thanks, thanks a fucking lot.

OK, yeah, but just to be clear, it DOES have a pocket? I'm also for a Banshee image... they fucking look good. Without the ability to put the SOUND of the Banshee on a shirt, the next best thing is an image of one, in my not so fucking humble opinion.

Smokers, duh. I only wear shirts with pockets because shirts don't have tags now, they have printed-on tags which fade in no time. I fucking hate putting my shirt on backwards, and I don't feel like hunting for a faded logo. Finding the pocket is easy when you grab the shirt out of the closet, that side faces front. Done. Plus, my smokes fit in that pocket, as previously mentioned.

It's the first result in Google when you search for 'Banshee VIN decoder' and it had pics and decoded the VIN on the same page so I posted it... the guy didn't ask where to buy stuff, he asked how to tell what year Banshee he had. I didn't even notice there was stuff for sale there, it just had the info the OP was looking for.

Check this page out, it has pics and info to show you the VIN location and decode it so you know what year it is. http://www.motorcityatv.com/how-do-you-know-what-year-banshee-you-have/

Have you had any cooling issues with the LED light there while riding slower trails? That is where I want to install a bar as well, and wondered about covering a portion of the bottom of the radiator and if it would cause a problem with no cooling fan. Pics of mine:

I need to remove the parking brake switch as well? I wondered about that... it isn't in any of the wiring diagrams in my Clymer. With my Warrior, it was tied to the ignition system and would allow it to start and idle but not rev up or have any power if the parking brake was applied.... is it the same with this Banshee or does it tie into the TORS unit? What does it do in the TORS system? I understand the throttle and carb switches being used, but I can't figure out why the parking brake would be tied to the TORS. I disabled the switch on my Warrior after it acted up one day on me, but I can't recall if the circuit is broken or completed when you apply the parking brake, I'll have to take this one apart to see what it should be when the brake isn't applied, and then permanently make it a broken or completed circuit so I never have to worry about it. I also planned on adding a non-parking brake lever assembly, and thought I had read one of the Yamaha dirt bikes had the lever I need, any idea where (which model) to get a stock Yamaha clutch lever without the parking brake crap on it? I need to price one compared to an aftermarket lever like AVS or the like. Thanks!

Thanks very much, I'll continue on with removing the control unit and wiring then.... I'll leave the needle alone and not worry about the washer, and I'll try to sort out how water is getting into the stator area. Oh, one last question... does it matter how this fuel valve is inserted as far as the thin wire loop used to hang it from the float?

I'm in the middle of doing the TORS removal, and wanted to verify the procedure on the electrical side of things with a 2000 model. I can just unplug both carbs, the thumb throttle, and the control unit and the ignition will still operate? I will be removing the control unit, thumb throttle switch and obviously the carb switches. I plan to fill the rubber grommet with RTV to seal it where the wire passed through for the thumb throttle. I also have questions about my carbs... the manual shows a washer over the needle in the slide, mine has none, but the previous owner re-jetted it. Should there be a washer there? On assembly of the slide, is this the correct assembly? I had to clean around my front chain sprocket to see if I have a leaking seal there or if it was wet from the previously leaking carbs, and when I removed the plastic side cover, there was a few drops of water in there. Everything looks sealed, and I found the notch for the RD350 neutral switch wire and it has a rubber plug in place so I can't see how the water got in but it was clean so I'm guessing from the hose while cleaning. Is there a common point for them to leak at that I can fix? Thanks! Brian

Are they not available from Yamaha any longer? Partzilla still lists them at $200 for the front and $220 for the rears for a 2000 Banshee, both Radical White and Deep Purplish Blue. Or is there something different about Fullbore fenders that make them more desirable than OE fenders?

If it starts easy and runs strong, that should be enough assurance that there is nothing to worry about. I'm new to all of this but from reading other threads 65 and 67 psi means it would be hard to start and would have power loss, neither of which you seem to have issues with so I would guess the tool to be inaccurate or the test procedure flawed in some way.

Thanks for the replies! I ride at Wayne National Forest in Ohio, some trails head down into valleys and cut back and forth so you're heading down for a longer time than if you just went straight down. It's technically considered the Appalachian Plateau, part of the Appalachian Mountain range, but just on the edge of it. I do blip the throttle on occasion and 3 minutes may not be accurate, but 120 seconds or 2 minutes does, at least it seems like it in some places. It is also rocky and rutted in places, so sometimes I am using brakes but then sections are smoother and faster and I'm not riding the brakes the entire way down, but I do use them to reel things in sometimes. I also ride them a lot, so it isn't just once this happens, we ride up and down the ridges and valleys on the trail system so I'm either hammering up hills or creeping down them.

I ride trails and there are a lot of hills... sometimes it is riding down for 2-3 minutes at a time in gear with no throttle input, allowing the engine to slow the rear wheels. With the carbs closed there is not much fuel coming through, but the engine RPM is elevated above idle from gravity rolling the bike down the hill so is there anything to worry about in this case since the engine lubrication comes from the fuel? I wasn't sure if a lower or higher gear would be better or worse, or if the clutch should be pulled and held the entire time or the trans taken out of gear and just let it idle or if it matters at all.

Nearly my exact same thoughts, just a couple weeks back. I rode a Warrior on the trails the last 3 years, then got this Banshee and holy shit will it get you in trouble fast but there is no way I'd get rid of it. When it gets on the pipe and starts making power it's just too much fun. Not true, he wants your 2-stroke twin because it's awesome and eats Raptors up. My riding buddy has a 660R that he would use to beat up my little 350 Warrior with... which is why I bought the Banshee. His days of beating me up are over now... I'm 90 pound heavier than he is, and my Banshee just eats that 660 Raptor alive. Tell him if he can beat you in a straight drag you'll consider selling it.... of course he won't and this does 2 things... it makes you love your Banshee even more than now, and it'll make him want your Banshee even more than he does currently. Welcome to Banshee Funland.... it's like having your own amusement park on 4 wheels.