lowidenfast

Hey guys, I noticed that my shee seems to be spilling a good bit of fuel from the two shorter overflow hoses on the side of the carbs. Everytime I checked, the top of the case was wet with fuel. How much is normal when riding hard and jumping a lot? The bike ran like a champ all weekend. If it was a float issue, wouldn't I see some other signs that there is a problem? Only hiccup it had was that, in order to get to the drag strip, you have to idle about a quarter mile through parking lots and, when i would make my first pass, it would bog some. I just kept it pinned and when i got back around for my second pass, it no longer had any bogging issues as if I had just blown the excess oil off of the plugs on the first pass. Just wondering if I need to pull the carbs apart and have a look at the floats. I've had them apart about a dozen times or more recently getting the machine jetted properly since swapping to VF4's and pod filters and, as far as my untrained eye could tell, everything seemed OK with the floats but I'm not sure I really know what to look for either. Any input would be greatly appreciated

Hey guys, the rear end is rigid. He has been painting some more stuff and added head lights since the pics posted. He sent me more, just can't upload them from my phone but he wanted me to encourage anyone interested to text him

Zilla, you'd have to text him. I don't really know the guy - just talked about bikes over on the gun forum. He has owned some banshees over the years

I have no idea really but, now that you say that, I can't see a rear shock... That would suck.

Disclaimer - this is NOT my bike. I'm posting this for a friend on another forum http://www.theoutdoorstrader.com/threads/690660-FS-Yamaha-raptor-with-a-gsxr-750-engine Item Name: Yamaha raptor with a gsxr 750 engine Location: Kingsland, GA Zip Code: 31548 Item is for: Sale Only Sale Price: $3700 Willing To Ship: No Bill of Sale Required: No Item Description: Yamaha raptor with a gsxr 750 engine built right. The rear end was built as well to withstand the power. It flat out flies but can also putt around and cruise the trails if wanted. Asking $3700 obo or a cash plus trade deal of ?? Call or text at 803fourfour76004 thanks

Come and get 'em Barry! Obama is the best gun salesman there ever was. Just look at the record gun and ammo sales that occur every time he opens his mouth about another gun grab Seriously, no local law enforcement agency is stupid enough to show up on people's doorstep asking for their guns. That would be a suicide mission and, most officers are strong 2nd amendment supporters who would disagree anyway. My good friend is a police sergeant and used to work with the sheriff's department. He said he and his fellow officers would NEVER participate in any sort of gun round-up.

You usually have to pay extra for that

CAM, the transmission was fine and it shifts perfect now too. I have spares of ever external shift mechanism now as well. I just didn't have the eccentric shaft / shift shaft adjusted properly. When I got the Clymers manual and read up on it, I realized the mistake I had made and not a single problem since

sorry for the late reply guys. As stupid as I feel, it was the eccentric / shift shaft adjustment. I misunderstood exactly what I was doing until I got the clymers manual and, by then, we already had the thing torn down. It was a lot of unnecessary work but I learned a lot about the bike along the way. I'm just happy to have it fixed. Rode for a few hours yesterday. Had to cross some pretty deep mud / water several times and the pods stayed clean too so I was glad to see that. I was a little worried about them

Yeah, there is plenty of room for your heel. I kick it just the same as I did before installing them

Well... .....drumroll please.... It's fixed! I finally have a fully functioning, shifting machine. I painted the cases and cylinders dark metallic grey to match the accents in the graphics while it was torn down. Thanks to everyone for your input over the last few months. I've asked a ton of stupid questions and even torn down an engine that didn't need to be torn down but I've learned a lot along the way and now I finally have a nice running banshee that I am proud of and I have acquired a lot of tools and knowledge along the way.

Here they are. Whatcha think?

If it doesn't shift right this time around, I plan to drive to Kansas and leave it (and my wallet) with FAST. I have some family in Mizzou anyway so I'll make a mini vacation outta the deal Someone responded to my intro post a few months back and said "welcome, leave your wallet at the door". That person is a fucking psychic. I used to have a savings account, now I have a credit card balance

No, I haven't done anything yet but I want to give it one last try myself. If it still won't shift, then I am throwing in the towel. I had actually planned to take it to Jeff @ FAST

It is possible that it wasn't adjusted right in this picture but I think it's just the angle of the pic. I have the clymer's manual now and will be giving it a 3rd try this weekend. If that doesn't work, I also have a stock detent and heavier spring I'll try replacing my shift pro with. I keep wondering if the modified shift shaft, aftermarket shift star and shift pro detent together just doesn't have enough tension because the detent wants to get stuck on the points of the star. Why I couldn't get it to go down into 1st the last go around is beyond me. I wasn't the one who took it apart the last time. My neighbor tore it down for me last time and then I helped him pull the engine out and split the cases to check the transmission gears. Nothing was wrong with them so it HAS to be related to the external shift mechanism (right?). The neighbor has owned several banshees and grew up a mechanic by trade. Just last year, he bought two junk banshees cheap, one with a blown motor and the other a bent frame and built a nice machine for cheap. He knows his way around these things and he too is confused as to what is causing these issues. The saga continues - LOL

Loco - you see anything that looks outta whack? Got my gaskets and seals in today, ready to put this thing back together this weekend / next week.

Got these XRW R1 nerfs in for my non-running, non-shifting banshee. I don't even know where my engine is right now but my rolling chassis is going to look bad ass tonight!

These are from the last time I put it back together

Man I sure hope so. I inspected the clutch components closely last night and, to my untrained eye, they look fine. In fact, almost everything looks brand new. The previous owner told me literally built /restored this bike over the course of a year or so and only rode it twice before selling it to me. I'll play with the shifting mechanism with both the stock detent and spring from FAST that is said to be lighter than stock but heavier than the shift-pro spring and see if it makes any difference. I'm just worried because iit shifted fine on the stand before we put it back together last time

I have several of both lock washers, my quad already has the shift pro detent, my eccentric shaft and modded shift shaft are brand new (modded by FAST) and I don't think there is anything wrong with the ones I took out of it (they look new too). My basket is billet (forget the brand but it's not stock) and I have the pancake bearing. I have ordered a stock detent and heavier spring (supposed to be lighter than stock but heavier than shift pro). I'm going to inspect the pressure plate and hub as well as mic the friction plates before I put it back together. I don't know about "bushings for the basket and a good backing plate with HD bolts". I'll have to take a look at what I have when I get home When I put mine together and adjust it, the arrow on the actuator arm doesn't quite line up with the mark on the case, it is slightly closer to the stator side. I've red some say this is how you want it. The clutch feels good so I have my doubts that is where my issue lies, but I gotta try everything.

My neighbor helped me pull the engine out and split the cases last night. We couldn't find anything wrong with the transmission. I just ordered new gaskets and seals from F.A.S.T. as well as a stock detent/shift drum (terminology?) with stiffer spring than the one on the Shift-Pro I have now to see if that helps. I didn't have the tool to mic the clutch friction plates before, so I'll check them to be sure they aren't worn but the clutch was supposed to have only had 10 hours on it. I need to make sure that I am assembling the clutch properly since I have a pancake bearing, I know that I out it back together the same way it came to me but maybe that wasn't assembled properly. I'm also going to look really closely at the clutch pressure plate and basket for signs of wear - all the usual stuff but I may notice something now that I wouldn't have known to look for before. Basically, all I know to do is try to put it all back together one last time and maybe I'll figure something out along the way. I have all next week off of work so I'll take my time and keep reading this Clymer's manual and learning along the way to make sure I am understanding and doing everything properly.

correct, it was in gear.

I can't comment on your original question but I have recently had problems with grossly inaccurate gauges myself. Maybe try another gauge before you go to a lot of trouble on this

Haha ...I have been brewing beer for a few years and, the more experienced & consistent I get with each batch, the more suspect I become of the equipment we use to measure the gravity (sugar content) and temps. Constantly calibrating the thermometers and not sure if I trust the one I am using to calibrate it with. Same thing with the hydrometer and refractometer and the one I have is supposed to be the best Damn shitty equipment!

Thanks guys, I feel better already! It only took 3-4 kicks to reach the max reading each time. I feel like I did it right, I rode it to warm up the engine then removed the spark plug wires from both cylinders and the plug from one, screwed the tester in and kicked away then swapped the tester and plug to the opposite cylinders and repeated the process. Now if only i could figure out my shifting issues (yet another new thread of mine)