lowidenfast

My bike just took a shit on me. I cranked it up and it's only running on one cylinder. no idea what's wrong with it but i'm fucked on making this trip. Been planning on it for weeks, have the time off of work, had all my other issues worked out and now this *%*^@#$!!!!!!

Yeah, I talked to Cody @ F.A.S.T. earlier and he said the same thing about the PT highs. I think I have more of a flat spot on the bottom than I should with the T5's. It sorta stumbles right before it takes off like a rocket. If I am in an open area where I can pin it all the time and just break the tires loose, I don't notice it but I don't always have enough room to ride that way and then it starts to become a real PITA in slower, tighter trails or when I end up behind other riders. I have some mystery needles with 6 positions for the clip and, for whatever reason, my bike does not like 27.5 or 30 pilots when 99% have told me that is what it should be running. I think I'm going to swap the mystery needles and 25 pilots for stock needles on middle clip and 27.5's 1.5 turns out and take it from there. I've finally fixed the other issues I was having so I can now turn my attention back to fine tuning the jetting

I agree 100% with both of these comments

^^ and hopefully get some seat time on it. I only got to ride mine in a small parking lot and all seemed fine. First real ride when I got home revealed shifting issues that I spent a ton of time and money chasing.

I know I want it for that price!

These make good bottom end you say, hmmm..... I've got an extra set of cylinders and stock head sitting on the shelf at F.A.S.T. I'm planning on having Jeff shave the head and port the cylinders with an emphasis on bottom end power to make this beast more trail friendly and also more practical for my occasional romp around an MX track. I just keep wondering of I should also be trying to swap the T5's out for pipes that are a better fit for my application. I've started threads about different pipes and what they're good for and, from the feedback I received, I have my sights set on the PT highs, just can't shell out the money for new pipes, hoping to find someone willing to make a trade Ultimately, my goal is more bottom end power/torque without losing any top end. My bottom end is really flat until the RPM's start to build and then it hits hard and screams from the mid range to the top and I don't want to lose that in the process. Is that realistic without spending a small fortune?

I had one last year, an '89 model and I loved everything about it except getting my ass kicked in a straight line by my buddy's banshee so I had to go back to the banshee. I used to race MX on a banshee when I was in high school. I won the holeshot at every race but that's where my advantage over the other guys ended since my bike was nearly bone stock. Sure wish I would have had an R back then instead! GLWS

Nice bike, I love the blacked out look. Where are you located? I have a buddy with a nice '88 250R. He's just added Laegers + 2 A-arms, Elka stage 4 Long travel fronts, stage 4 rear, flexx handlebars, ASV levers, nerf bars etc. Don't think much is done to the motor but it makes good bottom end. The power comes on pretty much instantly the way it is set up. Definitely a nice woods/track bike. Not sure if he would even be interested but I'll run it by him

What are Rockets good for? Are they top end or bottom/mid-range pipes etc? I'm somewhat new to the scene and haven't heard much about these. They look really "fat" compared to my T5's. Maybe it's just the pics

Did you swap to the single carb set up from twin carbs? Just curious how it affects the power characteristics. Seems like the consensus is that it helps bottom end and you lose a little off the top. Is that about right?

I'd been having problems with the 'shee and was beginning to think I was going to have to cancel my trip but I got it all worked out this weekend so I'm back in business. Can't wait to rip around with some other banshees.

Well the problem was the bearings in the rear end. Changed them this weekend and the popping sound/jerking is gone. I also had to go back to stock sprockets to deal with the chain adjustment issue. Sucks because I wanted to gear it down a little but it's all working now so I'll leave it alone. Just glad I'm going to be able to make it to Badlands in two weeks

Thought about that... Thanks.

I ordered 14/43 sprockets and rear end bearings today. All I know to do is slap those in and try it again. Wish me luck

I did get all new sprockets and chain at the same time and the only thing worn was the rear. Both chains laid out in the garage floor are the same length and both measure 12.5" across a span of 21 pins per the Clymer's manual. I verified through the part numbers that the sprockets are for a 520 chain. The chain is 520 (stamped on every length). Tightening the axle nut was the cure the the previously mentioned free play in the brake rotor and sprocket hub but the issue persists. The chain adjustment is tight and properly aligned. The wheel hubs are tight. only thing i forgot to check was to see if the tires are spinning on the rims per ride.race.live. I doubt that could make this sound/jerking but I'd like to verify regardless Crazy to think that just two less teeth (one front, one rear) can make such a huge difference in chain free play to the point that the chain is too loose with the additional lengths (same # as was previoulsy on it) and adjustment all the way out but then it's way too tight when I remove two lengths and move the adjustment all the way forward. Even had to remove a roller with the shorter chain length. No doubt I will have to get different sprockets just to make the chain length work. Guess i'll order up a new sprocket combination and start from there. More troubling than wasting money on sprockets is that I still haven't figured out the problem. No way it could have been jumping teeth with the chain as tight as it was before I added a second master to bring it back to the same length/number on lengths as the old chain. Still think there is an underlying issue outside of matching up a sprocket combo that works with chain length but I guess it'll solve at least one problem. It sucks that there aren't any reputable shops near me.

I wondered if the combo of 13/41 could be problematic I went from 14/42 to 13/41. My rear sprocket needed replacing but the front one is fine. Maybe I'll put the 14T front back on and try that out. Hopefully I can add a link back to the chain. Is that not what a chain riveting tool is supposed to do? It was badass for removing a link and assembling the master link but I can't figure out the riveting part. If it cannot be used to put the 2 links back in, I just burned through $80 + a $70 chain tool that I thought was going to save me money. I'll be returning that thing if I can't use it to add a link and putting the money toward another chain! Rear adjustment is tight and adjusted evenly. Double checked it yesterday. Thanks for the thoughts/ideas!

No, I just had the clutch side cover off to change the shift star and put fresh oil in it. No issue there. It is a loud popping sound coming from the chain/sprocket/rear end area. It does it on hard launches from first gear and into second if I am drag racing (under full power). It sounds like the damn chain has just broken or i've ripped a tooth off of the sprocket every time. On 1st gear launches it can pop 2 or three times and then once or twice more when slamming it into second. If I had not tightened the chain to the extent that it is now (too tight) by taking out two more links, I would think that the chain is jumping teeth on the sprocket Even if/when I figure this out, I don't understand how to deal with the chain length issue. It's either too long with the chain adjustment all the way out or it's too short (tight) with the chain adjustment all the way in and the roller behind my left foot removed. I actually had to connect the master link with just a few links on the sprocket and roll it to get the chain on the bike with the extra links removed. I understand I cannot ride with it this way or I'll break the chain when the shocks are compressed but I was trying to isolate the variables and see if the loose chain was actually jumping sprocket teeth.

OK, I worked on this issue last night but to no avail. The only thing I am positive of is that the hub splines are not the problem. I marked with a sharpie on the hub, axle nut and axle itself last night. Went and ripped on it and it did the same snapping sound/jerking but the marks stayed aligned. Tightening the axle nut was the answer to the free play that I was seeing on Sunday Now, backing up, this all started when I put a new chain and sprockets on the bike this weekend. The chain adjustment was all they way out/extended to take up as much slack as possible but the chain was still a little loose but didn't seem like I had enough slack to take two more lengths out. I decided to go ahead and test ride and the popping/jerking on launches was first discovered. I was a little apprehensive about taking more lengths out of the chain so I bought a chain breaker an riveting tool which, if i understand correctly, will allow me to add lengths back into the chain should I need to. Now the chain is actually too tight. I removed a roller to give it a little slack and just test it with a few more launches to see if the slack in the chain was the issue. I thought for sure, with it as tight as it is, that the chain would not be able to jump the sprocket teeth. Took another rip around the yard, same thing still happened. Makes me wonder if the chain is actually jumping teeth since it does it now with the chain really tight. What else could it be? Will a new chain stretch and make noises like that under heavy stress (doubtful, It's pretty intense) So, now I'm just more confused that I was yesterday when I started this thread. The chain cannot stay as tight as it is so I proceeded to add the lengths back but I cannot seem to figure out how to add a length back to the chain. Even if/when I do, the chain will be too long. What gives? Even more concerning is that I still don't know what the hell is going on with the loud popping sound and yanking on hard launches. Only happens on 1st gear launches and going into second most of the time. If I just ride and rip around, it's not even an issue but drag racing (an imaginary opponent) is where it crops up.

Yeah, I wouldn't really do that. Are you saying that I can get a good used +4" axle cheap? That's a relief because I have not priced them. Hoping I don't need one anyway. Think positive, think positive...

I used a giant pipe wrench and just wrapped a shop rag around the nut so as not to gouge it

Before I take anything apart, I'm going to mark across the hub and onto the rear housing then go do a launch and see if it is actually spinning on the axle I was hoping to replace my stocker for a roundhouse style swinger but I was NOT hoping to replace my damn axle. Happy thoughts for now

Damnit, that sucks. I don't know how old the axle is. Came on the bike, I've only had it since March. I'll tear it all apart tonight and hope for the best. If my axle splines are stripped, I'll ghetto rig the shit out of it (JB weld maybe?) to get by until Winter! I'll report my findings once it's off

Thanks. Is it common that the hubs wear out? Mine is aluminum so hopefully the splines on the hub wore and not the splines on the Axcaliber +4" axle.... Also, should the brake rotor have any play in it? It move the same amount as the sprocket hub

I put a new chain and sprockets on my bike and took it for a test spin late last evening. When I launched, there was an awful sound, almost sounded like the chain was jumping teeth on the sprocket and it jerked really hard. I checked everything out and noticed the rear hub has a bunch of play in it so I tightened the shit out of the axle nut thinking that was the solution but it still did it after that so I looked online and found that the hub has splines. Now I'm thinking that I need to tear mine apart and check them before I go ordering another hub. My question is, how exactly do I get it off to check that is the issue? Break the chain, remove the axle nut and then knock it loose - right? Or is there more to it? Just never deal with it before and I cannot find my damn Clymers manual at the moment. Trying to have this thing ready for Badlands ride on 10/4 and going to be out of town a lot between now and then so I don't have a lot of time to diagnose/fix this problem. I searched and saw a few threads about people having a hard time getting theirs to break loose but not really any "how to's" that I saw. Just wondering what input/advice you guys have for me before I start taking shit apart ....again! Also, I didn't see many options on the web for these hubs, mostly stockers on Ebay and a $200 billet from Lonestar, I believe it was. Who sells these things? Looked at Cascade and fast but nothing on their websites Thanks in advance guys

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? Toomey T5's 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N pods 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all/ No air box whatsoever 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) 800' 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 25's but still questioning my jetting, may go back to larger pilot jets 6) What size main jets are you using? 290's. Needle on 3rd position of 6 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? New to jetting and still trying to get it right but it's hot and humid here. I'd say 90 degree F 8) Do you have a port job? Stock port 9) What kind of carbs? stock 10) What size carbs? 26mm +4 timing, 40:1 race gas mix with 90 octane ethanol free fuel ~105 octane