lowidenfast

Cool, thanks special06. I'm sure I don't have to elaborate on just how terrifying it is to have a Shee stick the throttle WFO, especially in trails with plenty of trees around to break your neck on.

Oh wow, I was under the impression that the floats were better than most traditional shocks. So they are on par with one another? Saw a few bikes running them this weekend

When I first got my bike, I was skeptical that I could run open K&N pods and not end up sucking mud and water in but I took everyone's advice and the outerwears have done well to this point at keeping what little mud and water I can't avoid out of my engine but, this past weekend, it was dry and dusty (red clay here in GA) and by the end of the day my slides stuck WFO a few times. I cleaned the filters and carbs and it solved the problem but there was definitely some fine dust particles getting past my K&N's that caused the sticking despite beginning the day with clean/well oiled filters Now I know foam filters are better for fine dust and I've seen the Uni pods available. My question is, what site sponsors sell them and, is there a such thing as a outerwear for a foam pod? Even in dry/dusty conditions, I occasionally cross a creek or splash through a puddle and the paranoia of water in my engine still lingers in the back of my mind. Suggestions please

Just out of curiosity, how would these compare to a set of Elka stage 3 shocks?

I upgraded from stock to a used -1 Lonestar I found on here and had to use some spacers on mine as well. I eventually found a replacement grade 8 bolt at Fastenal that worked better but, if Cascade or any of the vendors on here sells them, that's probably the way to go

I want to see some videos of you ripping around the track when you get it finished up. I love the build

I agree with willaduncan assuming your motor is not ported - do you know if it has any port pork done to it? I have a stock motor with no port work, T5 pipes, K&N pods (no air box) and VF4 reeds at ~800 ft elevation and run 27.5 pilots with 300 mains. 300 mains still seems a tad rich, I could probably run 290's. Tried the 30 pilots when I upgraded to VF4's and ended up with the air screws too far out and had to go back down to 27.5

I have a stock motor with no port work, T5 pipes, K&N pods (no air box) and VF4 reeds at ~800 ft elevation and run 27.5 pilots with 300 mains. 300 mains still seems a tad rich, I could probably run 290's so 30 pilots + 320 mains def. seems rich especially with an air box

I ended up sourcing the proper shim. I was skeptical of using something makeshift and none of the washers would have ever worked anyway. They were all way too thick.

Great, thanks guys. That notched washer is pretty thin too. I think I'll take it to the store with me and just try to match something up to it (minus the notch of course)

Hey guys, I have been waiting all week for the shim that goes behind the idler gear so i can put my bike back together and ride but it never showed. It's # 9 below. Can I get a washer from a hardware or parts store in a pinch to keep this from ruining my weekend plans to ride? If so, what specifics should I keep in mind? Is it thicker than the notched washer (#10)? Help, i'm desperate

Ahh, I see. Didn't really think about that. I will probably just strip all the paint off of that end before I put it all back together then - thanks tricked Does anyone have any input as far as spraying some sort of clear coat over the polished clutch cover? Is it necessary and, if so, what type of clear coat would stick?

I can strip the paint off of this one. Why do you say that tho? It says the paint can hold up to 550 degrees.

I decided to paint / polish some parts on my engine while I'm waiting on my transmission to come in. It's just a rattle spray can job and my 2nd time ever attempting to strip and polish anything but it doesn't look half bad. Still got some polishing to do on the clutch cover Engine before Painted cylinders / head. Used engine enamel paint and clear coat, hopefully it holds up I had actually polished these up before deciding to paint them and strip/polish the clutch cover instead Once I get the clutch cover polished up a bit more, can / should I spray it with a clear coat to protect it? If so, will the engine enamel clear that I used on the engine parts stick to the polished surface? I used a self etching primer to get paint to stick to the polished clutch insert and water pump cover but that's obviously not an option for the cover. Also, is there any paint that would hold up on the plastic stator cover? I figure all of this is going to be trashed in a few weeks but I can't ride until I get my transmission back anyway so I figured why not purdy her up while I'm waiting. Thanks guys

OK, thanks guys. I did find some grade 8 bolts in SAE at Fastenal. I just didn't get them because they were the gold color and not the socket cap style I was hoping for but I guess I'll stop back by and pick those up

Hey guys, where could I find nice stainless pinch bolts and a brake line bracket for my Lonestar swing arm? It looks like there is supposed to be some sort of bracket that threads into the swinger to hold the brake line (2nd picture). I'm sure I could find something at the hardware store that would "work" but the entire bike has all stainless metric socket cap & allen head bolts & screws and I am trying to stick with the same look. I went to Fastenal this morning and they didn't have any stainless socket cap bolts in grade 8. Not sure if I need grade 8 bolts for this application or not. Also, should I use locking type nuts on the pinch bolts? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Sorry for the "rookie questions" but i'm relatively new to all of this and trying to learn all I can. It's nice that I only have to carry a small handful of metric tools with me when I haul the bike somewhere and I do not want to start bastardizing all the hardware.

This guy too. Word must just now be getting out about banshees down here http://atlanta.craigslist.org/atl/snw/4737239805.html

oops, I was looking at that one for my buddy's daughter. Here is the correct link http://atlanta.craigslist.org/nat/snw/4728469144.html

LOL, this guy must have found out the hard way.... Raced a banshee, now wants to trade his predator for one! http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/snw/4731490554.html

Don't think I'd go with 22" tires. My 20 inch Kenda Klaw XCR's are over 21 inches tall as they sit on my bike @ 4.5 PSI. I actually have three sets of 20x11 tires and they all vary in both width and height. Just something to think about. I also have a -1 swinger that I haven't gotten around to installing yet. If I get that done this weekend, I'll send you some pics of the clearance between the tires and my nerf bars. Doesn't seem like clearing the pegs would ever be an issue but the heel guards on my nerfs lean way back

Great seller, shipped fast, packaged well. Everything was as described. Buy with confidence

Thanks Deuce, received this on Friday. Everything looks good.

I found a deal on a used Lonestar -1 on here. It should be here Friday. Thanks for all the suggestions everyone.

Sure hope not. I've stood it up on the rear grab bar and eye balled it. I don't see anything obvious.

Yeah, bought mine in March. Never seen anything like that