lowidenfast

The white plastic bushing is definitely there. I don't think there are any bumps on the shift shaft to hold the spring in place tho. I'll have to take another look at it tonight.

Yes, Thank you guys. The spring on the shift shaft that sorta straddles the eccentric screw was installed incorrectly. It's perfectly adjusted now without even having to make any adjustments to the eccentric screw. I feel pretty confident that everything should work properly now. I really appreciate the advice. I am far from being a mechanic and don't really have the right tools but, after the local motorcycle shop basically stole $200 from me, I told myself that I was not going to pay someone to "fix" anything on it again. Between you guys' advise and hitting up all my neighbors to borrow tools, I am about to get it. Had to order the clutch basket lock washer as mine broke when i bent it flat to remove the nut. once i get that in, I'll put it all together and give it a try

I have some instructions i printed out from another member that said it is supposed to be in anything but neutral so i have it in 1st or 2nd. If I put it in neutral, it gets a little better but still nowhere near lined up properly

Ok, so i am lining it up center here then. geez, no wonder i was so confused. thanks

So I finally got the clutch off to have a look at the eccentric shaft and I am still a bit unsure about the adjustment. Am I supposed to be lining things up so that, when looking at it perfectly level, the star cog (terminology?) has the same gap above and below it? I used good ole Microsoft paint to highlight what I am referring to. Is this correct? If so, it looks like I am pretty close (not convinced this picture is straight on/level). The piece behind the Shift / shaft with the rounded end that actually fits in between the gears on the shift star says "shift pro" on it. again, not exactly sure what it is called but i did read on here that some people had problems with the weaker springs that come with them. Perhaps this is my problem because, as long as I am understanding the adjustment part correctly, mine looks to be pretty damn close. Thank guys

Thanks Savage. Turns out so accidentally posted this twice from my phone last night. The other post has received some good feedback. 32 mm huh, geez that is huge. Gonna have to stop and pick one up on the way home. As far as your question regarding my shifting issues, Neutral is too hard to find when I want it and I get random false neutrals in shifts other than 1-2 (3-4 shifts seem to be most common). Neutral on 1-2 shifts are pretty common too. The other day it fell out of 2nd gear back to neutral. It was a complete shift but when I hit the gas to ride a wheelie, the front end came about half way up and then it dropped out of gear

So the damn throttle assembly does not fit my handlebars. My bars are 7/8 and I guess the assembly is for 3/4 bars. It won't sit all the way down on the bars. Going to try and grind it down a little to get a better fit. If that doesn't work, I'll be back in the market for a thumb throttle

No, I don't have a manual and I have a Toomey clutch - supposed to have only had 10 hrs on it when I bought the quad. I've only put another 10 hrs on it myself, maybe less. I don't have any tools to mic the plates with so I guess I'll just try to leave everything together for the sake of keeping things simple. I don't have air tools either but the bike did come with a homemade clutch tool. I'm going to have to borrow a torque wrench when I put it back together to get the pressure plate torqued properly. I have really basic tools and even more basic knowledge but, after the experience I had at the local motorcycle shop, I am determined to lean how to do this shit myself Does anything else require specific torque specs (other than pressure plate bolts)? I saw a video last night that said you use a cross pattern similar to lug nuts when you tighten those up. Do I need to order replacements for the two washers I am going to be bending flat, the one on the clutch and the other on the eccentric shaft adjustment? Anything else I should be replacing when I put all of this back together? The main gasket on the clutch side cover looks fine. Thanks guys

I am trying to get to the bottom of my shifting issues so I have drained the fluids and pulled the clutch side cover off to get a look at the eccentric shaft and see if it needs adjusting. What is the easiest way to remove the clutch basket to get to it and can it all stay intact when I do this or are all the plates going to come apart?

I am trying to get to the bottom of my shifting issues so I have drained the fluids and pulled the clutch side cover off to get a look at the eccentric shaft and see if it needs adjusting. What is the easiest way to remove the clutch basket to get to it and can it all stay intact when I do this or are all the plates going to come apart?

I picked up this TRX90 replacement for $41 shipped. Just waiting on the throttle cable to install it

...What the fuck?

I am pretty sure my cap says 1.3 or 1.6 on it. (just remember something like that, not sure of the number). I didn't even realize it was a measurement. I was just losing it from the overflow reservoir. If I rode hard for a few hours, it would lose atleast half of what was in it. I re-routed the overflow hose so it doesn't just hang straight down from the reservoir to see if it is simply splashing out when I jump/wheelie etc.

Are my ITP's criminal?

I see that but I really just need one wheel if I can find an exact match. My tires still have tits and the other three rims are perfect. I'd consider a set of rears for the right price. I bet shipping the wheel & tire package to GA would be costly too

I recently bent my right rear ITP beadlock and need a replacement rim. These are aluminum with deadlocks inside and out. The inside is a solid piece with the outside beadlock bolted in place (removeable). I took a tape measure to it last night with the tire on it and I believe the diameter is 10", offset is 3+6 and I have to assume my hubs (which also bent) are stock so bolt pattern is 4/115. Anyways, I was thinking that I should stick with ITP so I can buy a single matching rim instead of a set being that they are so pricy. I was really just wondering who you guys suggest I deal with on purchasing the replacement wheel(s). Any suggestions on going with another brand altogether and purchasing a set. If so why? The carbon fiber sound sweet being lighter and stronger but I really don't have that kinda cash right now. Ideally, I'd like to purchase something used from a member if there are any deals to be had so I plan to scour the "for sale" section tonight when I get a chance.

OK, does anyone know of any reason this one wouldn't work for me? I already purchased the cable designed for quads with TORS eliminated. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Throttle-Honda-TRX90-TRX-90-Fourtrax-Sportrax-NEW-/191090528341?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c7de21055&vxp=mtr

The pic sheerider sent looks the same as my daughter's TRX90

Thanks. I may send you the links for final approval before I make any purchases LOL. Why Honda though? Just curious

My quad has the TORS eliminated already

Why Honda and what model? I would need a throttle cable like this one, right? Are you sure the cable would work OK with the Honda assembly http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-Tors-Eliminator-Kit-Throttle-Cable-Carb-Top-Banshee-YFZ350-YFZ-350-/201055703017?_trksid=p2054897.l5658

Looking to switch from a twist throttle back to thumb throttle. Need the assembly and cable without TORS

Thanks. I definitely do not have TORS.

No. 99.9% sure they do not.

Should have asked, any vendors on here sell thumb throttle assemblies?