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Was wondering if I could possibly buy new stock shocks and replace the springs for after market ones with spring rates that are for my weight? I know you can do this with cars, and complete after market suspension for the shee is out of my price range, I found some stock replacement shocks for the front for around $130 that come with resevoirs, look good hahaha but wonder if I can change the springs on them, I'm 230 lbs and on a mission to lose weight at the moment, so I'm looking at 400 spring rate I read their for 200-220 lb riders, and my style of riding is trail riding, whoops, some jumps ect

Alright sorry guys hahaha I'm still learning, I've got more info then another question. So I had rented a compression tester from auto parts to check my compression at I got the readings stated above, my buddy brought me his snap on compression tester from work and it's reading 110 psi each cylinder, I feel allot better with that, but obviously it's a little on the low side since I've read I should be in 130 psi range at sea level Now my question is would it smart or dumb idea to get a cool head so I can switch the domes to get higher compression readings? I read that stock shee at 130 psi with 19cc domes will be at about 169 psi obviously needing race fuel, so I was wondering if I can compensate with a cool head with a dome size that will out me at about 130-140 psi? Thanks for the patience uman your a gentlemen and a banshee scholar lmao

Hit another snag, did the tors delete, rejeted to 30 pilot 290 main, ran the bike with open carbs it ran excellent, I installed the idle screws and intakes now the shee is bogging out at high rpms past second gear, and if I let off and shift it bogs out at lower rpms, but it bogs and opens bogs and opens but won't go, I'm thinking of putting my 300 main jets in and seeing if it changes anything, any ideas?

Well did the tors delete today, rejeted to 290 main jet and 30 pilot and a 5 clip needle on 3rd clip, besides clutch slipping, and my rear end not feeling safe at all (gotta look into that) the shee is running great, no bogging out, clean transition through the power band, and there's power through 1/4 throttle to full throttle, plus the twist throttle don't feel to bad, now tomorrow gotta install the idle kit, look into why my axle feels so loose, and order a clutch, you guys have helped me allot, thanks so much I greatly appreciate it guys

Would you happen to know the compression ratios for different bores? When I rebuild I'm planning on doing a basic .040 over with new pistons rings gaskets ect and maybe a cool head? And was wondering if I can add a 4 mil crank to that setup? I know I'll most likely have to re jet then, just worried more or less on my internal engine setup. And another question, I've read fmf exhaust isn't great, wich is what I have, what exhaust should I run for best performance? I like how toomey t5's sound, heard they were good, but also heard cpi's were good?

I did the leak test completely wrong, I made a new one yesterday, I've read of people riding their shees down to 80psi before they rebuild, and that as long as there isn't a 10 psi or greater difference between the 2 it's still tunable? And I did the comp test without my exhaust on, should I do it with it on?

Oh just remembered, I pulled a jack ass move the other day, I loosened the air screws a bunch and didn't think of it, ran the bike without intake and lost them, I ordered 2 last night as well, not going to mess with the bike until I get all my new parts next week

Bike now no longer back fires, runs good 1/4 throttle to 1/2 throttle, any more and and it dies, hold it at half throttle runs good, already stated that I ordered 30 pilot jets, 290s and 300's main jets, tors delete and idle kit, and 2 k&n filters to remove air box, should be here before next weekend so we'll see then, I've heard of people running downwards to 80psi a cylinder before rebuilding, so I'm going to wait a few weeks before I rebuild the top ends, probably do .040 over bore until I can save up for a 4 mil kit and bigger carbs

Just took my carbs and intake manis off, noticed one of my intake manifolds had a bad enough crack I could see through it, I epoxied it, I will buy new ones soon, an I checked my compression, on cylinder is at 100 psi and the other is about 97-98 psi, I read 100-125 psi should be good so I'm guessing I gotta rebuild the top end

I just ordered a tors delete kit with idle kit and twist throttle (I was on dirtbike for a long time before I got this banshee) I also ordered a jet kit 290&300 mains, 30 pilot, new gaskets and needle jets, and some intake filters to get rid of the intake box, we'll see next week

Alrite so I figured I was getting to much air, I put the air box back on and now I'm getting my top end back, and my mid range is better then ever, the bike is even revving up better and cleaner, before it struggled a little to get past 1/4 throttle, your help is reall appreciate my friend, the bike is only getting better

My needle has 6 notchs, it was on the 3rd notch and I moved it to the 4th, I adjusted the air screw to 1.5 turns tey were in all the way, but now I have loss of power at full throttle, low rpms is way better then before, I'm going to put the needle on te 3rd notch again and try it again, oh and leak test checked out, don't have a comp test nor have the money right now to buy a tester

Main jet 240 Pilot 25 Adjusted my airscrew to 1.5 turns out, they were both all the way in, what is the bronze flight head screw on the out side of the carb right next to the fuel intake elbows??

Your awesome, I'm in south Florida, elevation is 13 ft, we just had our 2 weeks of winter, has been hot for te past 2 days and will probably only get hotter 70+ degrees currently, I have a single cone filter in air box without lid, came that way, and how would I find out what size carbs I have? I looked all over them and didn't see any numbers