fixitrod

I'd hate to not have money for new rubber

I wouldn't think it would make a difference really. I think it's more for reference if you take it apart and put it back together using the same clutch.

Okay, do not use the rubber orings. the order of the steels does not matter and the red on the clutch plates is so you can rotate the plates in the basket one tooth off. So if you put the first clutch plate in with the red at the top... 12 oclock, then the next clutchs red mark should go in the next groove and so on. Thats it.

Oh, duh.

I guess since I have to ask, I don't go there. But, what's ls?

Not me.

Sounds like you had a ring snag and break or some metal make it into the chamber. If you look into the exhaust port, do you see both ring intact? What made you take it apart. Oh, and yes, the dome is pitted.

Bullshit man Order your plan ticket and lets go.

Okay, I hate to do this since it was all started in another thread. The whole purpose of this post is to let everyone who has not followed the un-godly amount of info in the "Anyone up for a bhq get together" link. It's at the top of riding events and forums, but is a little misleading in title since there is now a plan. Roostfest 2004. March 4-7. You can see updates at www.roostfest.com and read all about it at http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17844 You will find everything from who's going to gps coordinates there. This post is to inform those that may want to go that didn't realize this was a plan for sure. Please, come join us. More than likely there is someone already planning to go that can work with you on getting you there. It's amazing how all these members are pulling together just to enjoy our sport. Come Ride Roostfest 2004 With Us... Please !!!! It will be tons of fun !!!!!!!!

Hiram, case matching is something that people do. I don't know how much is gained since the flow of fuel comes from the bottom ( which is usually smaller) to the top (which the tunnel on the cylinder is usually bigger than the case). If the cylinder were smaller, I could see it as a big benefit. As long as you have it apart though, go for it. The banshee can take whatever extra in the area of the transfers that it can get.

I too bought ac pro-pegs. The mounting of them sucks. I put a pipe in between the to support the front so they wouldn't be so sloppy. I think the newer ones may come that way though. I have the ones with the pegs moved back. I do like the way they feel, but if you ride A LOT, the teeth wear down fast. I haven't worn mine, but meat did. Economically, the dg steels are nice inexpensive nerfs. I think BenBB has or had a set and they looks great.

I have a barnett and it is stiffer. Some people just use three barnett springs and 3 stocker. The duncan is said to have the same pull... or close.. as the stock but grip very well. I've also heard someone say stock clutch is awesome if you replace 3 or all the springs with heavy duty. Just rough up the steals in between and buy the stock clutch plates. To each there own.

Meat, you need to head to the dunes man.

I have a long rod so I used the 795 series. I used the long rod for reliability. I'd just use wisecos. Ask your builder.

No problem, I have a 4mil stroker. You are right about the difference long and short rods.

Okay, I just ordered some using a mix of all suggestions. Here's what I orderes Skat-Trak extreme haulers 21x12x8 9 paddle. I'm hopeing the combination of answers I received that these will work for Dumont as well as silver lake.

Also, since you just did a rebuild... if all that is correct, you may have a head gasket leak. Loosen the radiator cap to releive the pressure from the cooling system. If the smokes slowes down or quits, it's a coolant leak for sure.

Nice find. That's for a long rod 4mm crank. If you use the short rod, you just need to use stock pistons and the spacer or cut 2mm out of the head and have the domes done.

If they are the 795 series wisecos, they are to compensate for the long rod only.

Mine start in one or two kicks. Make sure the carbs are installed right. The slides need to be in the correct carb and the choke tube needs to be connecting the two carbs in the center. Also, start with the pilot screws two turns out from seated. Those are the air screw close to the boot that goes to the aribox. Just check over the simple stuff like the wires, spark plug tops tight... Make sure the carbs are synced by looking into the airbox with the airfilter removed. The slides should start to lift at the exact same time. You may have the throttle cable kinked up at the y.

It has been said that it will not help much if any. All it does is make the piston skirt week. If the skirt breaks your motor is toast.

I didn't know this. I know you can get special pistons for a long rod, but don't think for the 4mm. All your builder has to do is cut 2mm out of the head. Make sure to have the ports cut to match your riding and you'll love it.

Try new plugs first. It won't start properly if only one side is firing anyway.

Silver or gold?

Just use one of those centrifugal lockouts. It won't matter what springs you have