fixitrod

This has been posted a 1000. The stock carbs stick when playin in water. The exact cause has not been found. It's probably not the cable. The stockers just don't like water.

If you've just put the clutch in then you may have not lined the arrows up on the pressure plate and inner hub. I did that once and It just didn't go... lol. If you haven't had the clutch apart lately, start where the others have said... the lever hitting the shift star.

I get my motor work and everything done at grand river racing. I've seen his frames too and just plain bad ass. I think lonestar may be overratted. Quick sand just makes bad ass arms. I'd have to say quicksand. Let him know what you want and you'll get it.

http://www.grandriverracing.com/bansheetran.html The tz bearing you are refering to usually is a crank bearing. The link I posted above is what you are refering to I think. It's a needle push rod bearing kit.

You can put a voice activated earpiece on the hand helds. My cobra's have this feature. The frs or gmrs radios. Might be a little noise, but it's worth a try.

With the pipes, you should have the timing advanced. You'll gain some throttle response and some more rpm's. If delta's are inevitable to you and you have the money not, why not. If your still in the air and want more bang for the dollar, ported cages are the easiest. I wouldn't use the carbon fiber reeds but I would use the thicker hyper tension reeds tdr sells.

They have a larger diameter shaft (prevents them from bending on big big jumps), maybe use better quality seals and parts. I believe it's customer service and the name too. I have never riden anything but stock and axis. I even bought my axis used. If something goes wrong with them, I call them. They hook me up like I just bought them. If I don't like how they ride, they'll revalve them for free ... I pay for the rebuild of oil and any bad seals. I had a rezzie that had a leak, they replaced it for free. What more can you ask for. On the other hand, works seem to work very well for the rec rider. They probably would have been enough for me, but I seem to over kill everything I do Anything will be an upgrade from stock. If funds are the stopper (we all have bills to pay) then works might be what you need. And, rezzies can be added anytime at a rebuild. You don't have to spend the money up front. They are to keep the oil cool so the don't start to "fade" and work like crap when riding very hard. Most of us don't ride hard enough to use them anyway.

I agree.. carbon fiber reeds are not all they are cracked up to be.

do you have the website were you bought the basket from motosports outlet ???? thanks i tried to find it and had no luck http://www.motosportoutlet.com/ It's right on the homepage. I buy stuff from them too. Free shipping on most things if you order over $100. Great service too.Call them to see if they have what your looking for before you think they don't. There website is mis-leading and not very accurate.

Ding, survey says... #1 answer

Actually, the one on the caliper is what I was talking about. Sorry, I wasn't reading close enough.

Meat, there are a ton of us there now...

I love those elka's with piggyback.

It looks nice. Never used one. You won't notice a performance gain, but you don't want it to wear fast. The new basket is threaded and comes with screw. Make sure you get new cushions with it. Looks like the vitos comes with it. Some sell it seperate. Make sure you have new ones. You'll just need to drill the stock rivets so you can re-use your gear. When you put the new one together, you'll need some red loc-tite. That's about it. As far as the bearing.. you'll probably have to hit the dealership or go to www.ronnies.com

Can't beat that with a stick.

Those are ran by a processor, you can program them to do what you want.. any color. I still think they are bad ass. The colors work like a projection tv. Mix um up and get the color you want and roll them, stobe them... whatever.

The rivets aren't what's coming loose unless you can wobble it. Usually, the bushing just get to small and you can rotate the basket, but it doesn't wobble. If it wobbles, also check the basket bearing... it doesn't look like a bearing but that's what it's called.

Almost any shop has them. It's an e-brake block off. You can get them for $10.

I did and didn't find the lights.. just those stupid led tire things.

There are rubber cushions between the basket and the gear. I had a step by step on replacing the old basket on the old site...it's all gone now. Here is a pic of of the basket apart. You can use screws, bolt and lock tite to put the stock one back together. You'll need a set of cusions though and be really good at taking the rivets out without damaging the basket or the back plate. If there are grooves in the basket, might as well upgrade. There are other good baskets out there too. I think wiseco has one out now. That's the basket split. The cushions are worn... see how they don't fit right.

Those are just plain bad ass. But, I can't find a price. They don't have them on the two web pages suggested. http://www.tireflys.com/products/Colorloopref.mov Check them out !!

That's what I did. Just decide if you want a full ported motor $$$ or just matched ports. Matched port will keep a stock style timing and be cheaper. Good Luck

If you lathe one piston, it will be out of balance from the other. More stress on the crank. You can get a piston for $65. How long has it been since a top end rebuild anyway. That piston may work fine.. I just don't do things that way. I bet it would work... but is it worth it to find out !!! From what I'm seeing you lost a bearing or a ring caught and busted up. What made you take the motor apart. That would in deciding what's going on. As far a rebuilding the crank. What are you going for? Do you want it to run just like it is or are you looking for more performance? If you're looking for it to run like it is, I'd defenitley put a fresh crank in there. I have a used crank that a main bearing went out on. I had the bearing replaced, but I put a stroker in my shee. T.D.R does good crank rebuilds. Send them yours and they'll send you a rebuilt one. I think it's $350 -$400. Or, find a shop that will rebuild them. Some charge $120 plus parts. Lots of options here. Let us know why you took it apart... was the motor locked or what. On the clutch basket, make sure the kick starte gear still has the e clip on it. I had it come off before. I went to the hardware store and bought a little smaller one that has worked out great. I'm not sure if that's your trouble... it's just something that comes to mind.

I wouldn't think about putting that piston back in. It has to have some kind of material sticking in toward the bore... you'll probably need to re-bore anyway. That cylinder can't be healthy. I bet the head looks the same !!!

Depends what you want. If your staying with stock sleeves, go as small as you can and save the bores. Not much if any by bumping just a couple sizes. If you are going balls out, drop some big bore sleeves in there.