fixitrod

Don't hold the clutch in forever while coasting, like going downhill. It can melt the pushrod and ball for your clutch.

Way Way late but had to add my happy Birthday. I haven't been on in a while myself.

Vegas.... lol

Since your not getting responses, you could look on ebay and see what they have gone for in the past.

Sounds like you need to make sure your clutch is properly adjusted or the adjuster on the pressure plate hasn't come loose.

He's working on rebuilding his shee. Maybe that has something to do with it. Or, maybe he's working alot. I know I haven't been on much either.

I think what may have happened is your gas dripped through the carbs leaving oil in them. It's probably not clogged, just very low on fuel. Maybe there was a little oil residue but.............. ahhhh .... nevermind... how did it just get oil and no gas...

Just remember the oil is the smart factor here. When the banshee was built the suggested ratio was 24:1... not for breakin but for normal riding. This was for reliability of the oil made in the 80's. Science has brought us oil capable of 100:1 in 2 stroke engines. I run 40:1 with maxima brand oils. If you do decide to change, which you should, to a richer (fuel) ratio then you are going to need to rejet.

Yep, the adjust fell off. I've had that before. Luckily all I got was a couple dings on my clutch basket.

Could just be a plug fouling out from the oil added during the rebuild. Like said above run a few heat cycles and try new plugs before getting to hasty.

Who had them before Meat did?

If that engine isn't to old and both cylinders read exactly 95psi I'd try another guage to make sure it's not a pilot jet or something simple. Usually when a banshee engine wears it's one cylinder or the other that is low. Now, it is very possible that they did wear the same just from use. I'd try another guage and go from there. If it's still low, rebuild before you completly destroy your head, cyliders, crank. It's trbl.

Let us know when you need help and you'll get plenty of responses. Welcome

I see your confusion. Timing advaced will take away from the top end. Retard the timing and gain pwr up top. A heavier flywheel may pull you through from 5th to 6th but when you hit the gas the lightened flywheel would have an advantage of reving faster. I'd rule that out so far. The crossover tube is "suppose" to be there only to equalize the fuel delivery at I believe 5000 to 6000 rpms. If your rpms are higher than that then I'm not convinced that's your problem either. First thing I'd do is put the timing back to stock and see how it feels. Now, you may be able to get your top end back by jetting. Since it's been so hot out that could be your whole problem to begin with. Was it cooler when you rode before. You may be rich on top. It is about 1mm per degree on the plate. 4.5mm is 4 deg of advance. Good Luck !!!!

You will def be richer on the fuel.

If the weather got hotter you may just be to rich on the bottom. You could try turning your pilot screws out a little or dropping your needles one. ... if the temp got hotter than when it ran good.

If you have an after market head and your positive it's not detonation it could the the threads on the dome.

A big reason the banshee clutch "drags" when cold is the oil. The oil does drip out from between the plates and is thick until it's warmed up.

The pistons and rings swell when they get hot. The reason for a cold test is to get an accurate reading with most of the oil and gas out of the cylinder and to prove proper maching, and I'm sure there are more reasons.

You can synch the carb with a synch tool if you want. There is also a glass buble on the, I believe, the left side of the carbs. You adjust the synch with the big screws on the boxes that sit on the carbs... the tors. Then you set the idle by adjust both screws at the same time to keep the in synch. It's most likely not your problem. Could be a few things. I'll list some. Electrically the tors can shut down the ignition source. YOu can unplut the tors system by unhooking the little black box under the tank on the left side. There is also a parking brake switch on the left side. It's there to keep you from reving the engine while it's parking brake is on. You can check that it's working properly or simply disconnect it also. If it's been torn apart it could be an airleak in the carbs, choke tube between the carbs, slides in the wrong carbs... swapped left and right, etc... Oh yeah and most people run 32:1 to 40:1.

You can also go to www.ronnies.com and look up oem parts. There is a complete diagrahm of every part on the banshee there.

WOT is so you get all the air you can and not the fuel oil mixture. If you get the oil in there it can seal the rings and give you a good reading even though your rings could be leaking. And if you have to much liquid in there the reading could be higher than it should be. Keeping it WOT while kicking gives a more accurate reading for more than one reason.

I use 6 barnetts. My clutch was tough too until I replaced the cable. I had no idea my cable was even bad. I put a new one on as preventive maint. when I went to glamis. What a difference. If the ebc springs seem weeker than the barnetts I'd consider running 3 ebc's and 3 barnetts also. The more tension you have there the less slipping you will have. If you can swing 6 barnetts, go for it.

You should find a nice one for that. I don't know how late of a model but you can get an older one with a ton of great mods for that price.

Depends how much of the airbox you had on it. If you jetted it with the lid off or cut in half your current jetting will be fine. If you had the lid and snorkel on it then you will have to increase the jetting. I'm guessing you don't have the lid on anyway by the jetting you are running now.