fixitrod

Low and wide if the track is gripping, narrow it up and make it taller if the track is slick. You'll need a sway bar Here's a sway bar, lowering link Here's a lowering link and preferably some short shocks for the front. They do have lower links for the front but you can't jump with them.. not really. Banshee usually do very well at flat track because of the top end. BenBB runs TT races. He may chime in here too.

Okay, you can run the free version of adaware from lavasoft to help clean up the internet spywear and adware they the web sited dump on your pc. A really effective free pop-up blocker is by downloading the google toolbar. I love it. It has a lot of features that don't use many resources of the pc. Get yours here http://toolbar.google.com/. Make sure you read about all the features. It will scan web pages for text, high light words your looking for, autofill name and adress. You'll love it once you get use to it.

What size are they and what type. If you don't want them, I may buy them...

Torque and power!!! It would pull more fuel and air on each stroke because it move farther. More CC's

Sounds like bad fuel !!!! I've had that happen before also.

You have to remember, it's not all about horse power. It's torque also. When adding a crank, you can go big bore and really get some power. With 7mm and 10mm you'll need to get the crank case cut as well as porting, head, bigger carbs. If you can afford it and ride it, go for it.

Minkia38 has some for sale. Here they are http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=21586&hl=

shee devil, if they do lock the email, just go to the web page and check you email. Delete them from there and you'll be fine. I use comcast... www.comcast.net . I had a friend who had the trouble you are taliking about. He just logged on, put in the password for comcast and deleted those emails from there. Then his outlook express started working again.

lmao

Sounds like jetting to me. What jetting are you running, temp, elevation.

I had 5 of them come in yesterday. It's a binary code. It may look like a noepad txt attachment. If you don't know who your mail is from, don't even open it.

I use to fill the case to the clymers specs and the oil read about the middle of the dipstick. I know, there a change oil recommended level and a complete refill level. I used the change oil recommended. It was to much. It would blow out on if I started hitting whoops really hard until it read just on the bottom of the dip stick. I thought it was the rezzie of my front shock because my hose is routed to the front. I now fill it to the end of the dip stick and that's it. Haven't had trouble since. ***edit*** I don't know if my oil was coming from the tube you are talking about or the one in the rear part of the crank case because they intersect.

That all depends on the porting and compression numbers. If you run to high of compression and pump gas with advaced timing, you may get pre-ignition. This is the fuel exploding before the spark plug ignites it. This can burn holes in pistons and melt plugs. If you have high compression, either back it down with bigger domes or run race gas.... or maybe have race and half pump.

I need to know the demensions ***edit*** I re-read it.. 4x4. Duhhh ***edit***

The colder it gets, the thicker the air. You need to match that by going richer in jetting. About 1 size for every 15 deg. .... it's an estimate if you were exact on your jetting.

They just have to snappy of power. Try keeping a gear higher and using the clutch more... or gearing up. You have to have good tires though.. and ground clearance. Maybe have some 22 inch dune trackers on the front will help keep the front from sinking.

Guess not, you need to call magic. They'll work with you.

Just so you know, if that email address that duece posted doesn't work, strip the @attbi.com and use @comcast.net. Comcast bought at&t's service last year.

If you were sucking air, you were lean. I would also do a compression check to make sure it's good. Running lean can cause some problems.

pm me a price for the unifilter..

Trued means they check it to make sure each rod is in phase with the other. If it's not, they true it up. If look at how a crank is built, they are pressed together. At the point that they are pressed together, they weld them in place so they can't go out of phase or spread apart. This is the welding part.

It proabably has an aftermarket clutch which came with aftermarket springs. If the cable is good.. which it may not be... you may just need to look into some lighter springs. Some people use 3 stock and 3 heavy duty springs. All that other stuff you want to buy will not help your trouble. If the basket is in good shape I wouldn't buy any of that stuff. I beleive duncan makes the lightest pull.. good gripping clutch kit out there. You may want to look into that if you are looking to spend the extra $$$.

Just some stuff I'm trying to sell to get some more money for dumont and a new head. Thanks for looking http://cgi6.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISA...&sort=3&rows=50

The air was most likely the trouble... if it's not jetting. The reeds are fine. Just flip them over. To tell if reeds are good, you are suppose to measure the thickness but I don't have the number handy.

www.grandriverracing.com