fixitrod

You have to do what you have to do !! Family first. Doesn't mean you should still visit here though. Good luck in whatever new hobby you find out there.

Exactly. Just get some good hose clamps. I had the same trouble. They will be fine. They make them smaller on that end a bigger on the intake for atomization and air velocity. You'll be fine.

Okay, here's what I'm running. 4mm stroker crank "pro ported" cylinders from grand river. I don't have any specs. Just the pics I posted a while back fmf fatties some cheap intakes I got off ebay delta v-force reeds 35mm pwk's I still need to jet or I'd tell you what I'm running 15/41... to low I don't know how this will compare to anyone elses shee, but I know it's WAY faster than it was.

That axle stuff can happen to any quad !! Not just a banshee. Actually, I've never had that kind of trouble.

I have a 4mm stroker. I was using 28mm flat slides because of $$$. That's what I had. The reason I went with the stroker is because the crank went so I figured what the hell. My builder is Andy from http://www.grandriverracing.com. He suggested from the beginning that I run 35mm keihns pwk's. He also said that wouldn't loose any bottom end because of his porting. I got a set a while back and ran into some intake, boot size, air box location issues. Today I got it running on the 35mm. Man, what a difference with the bigger carbs. I didn't loose a thing. I have more power through the entire range than before. I have a low jetting sputter, but that will be resolved when I get to Dumont. If any of you have small carbs on a stroker, get the bigger carbs. It's very well worth it. I put a 15 tooth on the front and I can not keep the front end down. I may need to go bigger. I think it will be okay with the 21" paddles I'm going to run. Anyway, I just wanted to let you stroker people know that the bigger carbs are really really worth it. I was shocked.

Could be either. Better they break now and not when you are riding..lol. I'd borrow another torque wrench though. 20 ft lbs is the spec.

I'd say compression, timing advance and suspension !!! You'd notice a lot more pull with a 14 or 15 tooth in the front. That 13t revs out way to fast.... at least for me. Try that first and see what you think. 14tooth is stock for a 2000

I'd guess around 230's to 240's on the mains. Every bike is different. This is assuming stock pipes. Don't buy a jet kit, just go to the dealership and by some jets. It will save you some $$$$

The top end is what determines compression... not the bottom end. Just check the compression and see where your at. My guess is if you ran 5 tanks through and haven't burnt it up.... you most likely fine !!

pull the front plastics and tank and go for it. You do not need to take the motor out to rebuild the top end.

Like said before, it's funny how all non-banshee owners have the answers Anyway, all octane does is prevent pre-ignition if your compression is high or timing is way advanced. If you're running a stock bike or close to it, you will be wasting your money. Race fuel will most likely not provide any performance in that case.

I didn't run mine rich. I did 4 warm up cycles and then took it east for 4 runs while working my way into the power band. I also didn't run it at one rpm for the entire time. I've done some reading online and I like what Eric Gorr has to say. Here's what he say 10) When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are; 1) Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand. 2) Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn't have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize. Here's where I found it http://www.eric-gorr.com/techarticles/twotopweb.html

I have a set of 28mm mikuni flatslides but no stockers.

www.motosportoutlet.com has them cheap too. I don't know if they are on the web page, but they are in the catalog. Just call them.

I had the same trouble. If you don't have a bad crank seal, then you are filling it to full. I filled it with the recommended amount and it would blow out on whoops. I now just fill it till it is on the cross hatches on the bottom of the dip stick... no more troubles !!!

BlueDuece, what kind of intake system is that ?

There is a filter on the petcock of the banshee. I emptied my tank and took the petcock out. I cut that filter off. Then put a clear inline filter in. This way I know if I have an obstruction. And, if I do, I don't have to empty the tank... it will be in the clear filter.

That's because you leaned it out by taking the lid off. The best jetting advice anyone can get is here ----> BenBB's jetting faq

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What kind of little ones was this thread about again

I can't imagine cpi's running that flat unless they had the jetting way off.

just log on as a different name. If you are using the link that was provided, just type your name (where you would normally type your messages) and hit enter. If it doesn't like the name, try another. You won't need all the command stuff unless you use lexicon.... if you don't know what it is, then your not using it.

Different pipes will react different, but what you're describing could be jetting.

The more opposite the sizes of sprockets, the lower the gearing.

Stock carbs are probably your best bet for power until you get porting.. even with pipes.