fixitrod

Post a pic of the cages and someone will be able to tell what you have. If they are a dual stage reed they are most likely boyesen reeds.

What all have you done to it?

I bet most people here change there oil more than once. I don't know the answer to your question. I wouldn't think it would matter. The only difference would be jetting. I'd think that if you mixed the same amount of oil, even the jetting wouldn't change. The color of the plug might because different oils burn different.

Holy Shit... that's bad ass!!!!!

Mine runs between 160 and 190 normally.

If you read the whole thread a lot of your questions will be answered. A lot of that is still in the air also.

Also sounds like you may have water on the carbs. Do you let it sit outside in the moisture or ran or did you happen to wash it before you rode it.

Wiseco's are proven time and time again. You can't go wrong with them. Cast pistons to me seem like a week link in a motor.. at least a motor that runs such high rpms. If a cast pistion crack.... it's gonna fall into pieces. It's possible for a forged piston to crack and not crumble. I don't know, it just seems forged piston are stronger and more reliable. You need to let the quad or bike warm up for an extra few minutes. It's an opinion.. not fact.

:flame: $300 That's a lot of $$$

That depends on a lot of factors.

That is the best holding tool. It even works for re-torquing the nut. Just put it in gear and hold the brake.... then put in the clutch and steel that is bolted together and torquer down.

I have tech 6's and think they are stiff as hell. Guess to each there own

I think so too!! I played on my sons 80cc for a while...lmao. I had no problem. Rode an old honda 250x for a couple min and held a wheelie fine. Try it on the banshee....what a bitch. You have to hit the grab bar a couple times before you'll find the balance point. I'm still not very good, but I like to start from a dead stop and try to "walk" a wheelie. Almost impossible on the banshee with mods because it's peaky. It can be done. When getting really high just keep the rear brake ready. That was key for me... the rear brake. Hit, hold it, use the rear brake. My next step may be feathering the clutch..... that's for another day though.

Andy at grandriverracing did some dyno runs with different oil at the same ratio's. I can't tell you what brands and types he tried and how he tested them or what gains he saw. He suggested I use Maxima Tundra R. It is a snowmobile oil. But, it is also certified in Japan and Europe and doesn't clump up when it gets cold out. I'm sure there are other oils that are certified there also. Their standards are a lot higher than ours. $15 a gallon for any oil is awesome. I have to order this oil because no one carries it. $31.49 out the door per gallon..... OUCH!!

http://216.37.204.202/yamaha_oem/YamahaATV...pe=13&A=178&B=3 Part number 12 for $5.00

I may have to get a few of those shirts myself BenBB !!!

I'm betting if the gap isn't larger than the thickness of a piece of paper or so you won't notice much if any improvement by flipping them. The ideal situation is no gap, but I bet if all of us checked our reed that 90% of us have a little gap. The oil and back pressure will seal a minor gap.

It increases the amount of time the fuel can enter. The pison will be open to the fuel channel longer if the actual port is larger. It's more reliable to cut the cylinder port than the piston port.

The pilot isn't going to affect to awful much. A lot of people do run a bigger pilot. When I had stock carbs and fatties, mine ran fine with the stock pilots. Like you said, Trail and error. I'd save that for last if it starts and idles fine.

First thing I'd do is start adjusting the needle and pilot to get the sputtering out of it. If you can't get into 6th your gonna need to look at the plugs. Get the needle in the right position first. I'd drop it to make it leaner first and then go from there. Once you get more response out of it, don't quit there. Drop or raise it again until it gets worse... then put it back to where it ran the best. The pilot is when you start it and are cruising just barely touching the gas. Then needle is from there on to the main. The needle is used for the 1/4 up to full throttle. I know most will say 3/4 throttle, but when you pin the throttle from say 1/4 throttle, the needles doing the work until the main can kick in. Start by lowering the needle. If it's worse, raise the needle. Once you get the most throttle response move on to the main. I bet your a tad rich on that main.

I want to comment on this. My builders tells me he can get a head cut the right way and run 93octane with 180lbs. I believe it. You have to remeber, most people here use compression as a basis. Builders use compression ratio's, squish, port design, dome angles, timing advance, altitude, humidity and a few other things to determine fuel grade. Becarful what you say. Remember this.... The more you learn, the more you realize you don't know. Kind of like saying the more I learn the dumber I become. That's what's happening to you right now. We've all be there.

Survey says............. ...................... ...................... ...................... Ding

It completley depends on your riding style

The way I'm reading the post is your uncle isn't going to port it... just rebuild the top end. If that's the case I'd get it ported while you have it apart. You can gain great power if the right person ports your quad. You can always add a head and reeds later without tearing the motor down.

Oh, the pistons them selves... don't do it. Why weaken the piston and make it off balance? You won't gain enough to make the motor that un-realiable.