fixitrod

It's just a big rim in a small tire. That's it. Maybe you can get a 10" rim in an 18" tire. I don't know for sure, but that's all they are.

I'd be walkin in with my cylinders and out with cash in had of that was me. Funk that

Let us know !

You're making my head spin with all these very similar or same post. Here is a simple way to check your rings.... but the head has to be on. You can put a tbls spoon of 2 stroke oil in the cylinder and do a compression test. If the compression increases a lot then your rings were leaking. Do both before the oil and after putting in oil at the same temp.. cold. You may have a gauge problem too. Those compression gauges seem to go bad a lot.

If you find it's not your clutch it really could be your jetting. I had an issue, thought my jetting was fine, couldn't climb hills right, couldn't pull 5th to 6th. All the symptoms of a lean jet. Turned out I was rich and my expansion chambers weren't reaching a good temp to build the pwr I needed. I had to lean it out. If your rpms are just dropping off when you hold it full throttle and come down to 3/4 and the pwr pics back up it's te main .

If you don't have an impact you will need a tool to hold the clutch and flywheel to remove and properly re-torque them. Even with an impact you don't know the torque when re-installing. As superchicken said, the bar with two botls in it spaced apart the same distance as the little holes in the flywheel makes a great flywheel holding tool. Make sure not to pust the bolt to far in because you may damage the stator. For the clutch you can can bolt an old steel and fiber together and put a wrag in between the gear of the clutch basket and crank. The fiber has teeth that hold the basket and the steel will hold the inner hub. Together they keep the unit together for removal and installation. I like to use two of each so the don't warp and slip out when tightening. A soft wire brush is nice for cleaning the gasket surface without nicking them like a razor blade. Make sure to grease the inner lip of all the new seals if you're rebuilding the bottom end too. If you're just redoing the top end it's a piece of cake.

Now that is interesting !!!!!!!!!!

After all that you will have a lot of jetting to do. Everytime I work on mine it gets a little faster.

I'd sell the shocks you have if you're planning to get rezzies. You can add them but by the time you have them rebuilt, revalved, resprung, and add the rezzies you could have a new pr. By selling yours you could re-cop some of the cost. As far as the a-arms quicksands look cool. Don't forget about ricky stator a-arms. I've put mine through a beating over the last 3 or 4 yrs and even the ball joints are still tight. BenBB races them in the desert too. As for the rear, I know the rear is expensive for aftermarket and the stock is a pita. I have a -2 stocker. It's really not to bad. I see people fight those expensive round carriers too. I'm not convinced they are worth $700 dollars. The rear shock is up in the air as to rebuild it $400 or so for spring, revalve and zero pre-load if you wish. Or sell it and buy a good aftermarket one. The rear is suppose to be a good unit when set up properly. Don't forget about moving the pegs back. I have the ac propegs that are moved and everyone says my banshee feels like a caddilac... I have axis shocks to but the pegs give the extra room and puts the weight over the wheels more.

http://216.37.204.202/yamaha_oem/YamahaATV...e=13&A=138&B=38 Ronnies has the for 46.83 so I'm sure you can even get them cheaper than that. I'm sorry you took it to the dealer

Try leaning them just to see what happens. Your filter isn't dirty is it.

I always have pro take a look at the cylinders, tell me what they think I'll need. Order the pistons. Hand the pistons and cylinders to the machinist and let him match them up.

Recheck the torque first. If it's okay then you can silicone/rtv/yamabond the washer and the down in the hole. I believe you can buy rubber coated washers too.

The two gas lines look like they are suppose to be gas lines and the one that connects the two are lined up directly across from each other in the center. See you can find anything on the hq. I'm gonna do some more searchin myself incase you don't get the manual. I hate to see a banshee apart that's not being sold.

Okay, I've read the last 3 pages.... where the hell are you guys goin

You have the fuel lines, and one choke tube that goes between them. It's just a straight tube. The there are some overflow lines that hook up on the carb that don't hook to anything, just the one carb and hang. That's it for the carbs. You do have some vent lines. One goes to the back of the engine in the center and one goes to the water pump cover then connect under the tank and snake up by the radiator. Those are just to let air into the tranny. There are some coolant lines also to the coolant bottle in the rear. The tube goes up front to the radiator. Here's a way to move the coolant bottle up front though so it doesn't siphon itself dry when riding hard. http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html Look around for some pics of air filters and stuff in the images and you'll see some of the hoses... I'd guess so anyway. There's and online banshee manual somewhere too.

I dought anything. If it wasn't and "official" Drag strip. Shitty part is, he may be liable for the other guys jeep.

Happy B-Day

There is no best oil. Klotz does make a quality product that's for sure. If you change the ratio you run now then you may need to rejet. I run 40:1 with maxima products. Should be fine for Klotz too. Just run the gas out of the tank before adding the new fuel oil mixture and you should be fine.

Maybe you should drop your needle one before changing the main again. The main does sound right for fatty's. My fatty's liked a lean needle when I had stock carbs.

you can also do a search for " holyman tech". But why bother when you can have him do it.

If the fan outside is running strong and the filter is clean you are probably low of freon like everyone else said. I've seen the contactors go bad, fan (outside) not run properly and cause freezing too. If you have a leak, get out your wallet

As a base I'd say start at 310 main, needle somewhere between one lean from the middle to one rich from the middle... just start in the middle and see if it sputter or bogs and 25 to 27.5 pilot. The fmf fatty pipe likes a lean pilot for some reason.

Noss Machine sells a stablizer. It's a simple cartridge style. It helps in the big rutts or when quick off camber stuff pops up. Not a giant difference. I believe blueduece is running a scotts after trying the cartridge style and love the piss out of it. It's expensive though.

I have a 4mm stroker motor from Andy. No problems here. Hell, I email him and get answers back. If I had the $$$ I'd be lookin at some in frames.