fixitrod

So far I'll be there on the 24th. Just for the riding though. I'll probably just come down in the morning and leave in the evening. If the weather straightens up we may camp down there.

Heres how to do it http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html

I moved mine to the front. I wouldn't ride without it. For most riding you'll be fine. I think BenBB tossed his. He's never had a problem but I noticed at dumont he was checking and fillin a couple time. Just move it up front out of the way.

Remember that post where I said I gained and didn't loose from the bigger carbs? Walla !!!! I wasn't crazy

Okay, I use to be a believer in adaware. I've told a lot of people about it on this site. I have been trying out a few... to include spybot. My new favorite is spy sweeper. I can't believe how deep this goes. It will get rid of everything to include those stubborn toolbars that you don't want. I do suggest to download the google toolbar. It stops popups and has a really cool search feature, auto fill feature and some other stuff. Select DISABLE advanced features and it want use the resources of your pc to send google info. Best toolbar out there.

I'm wondering about those pipes. How in the world can carbs not make a difference unless something is restricting them from being used to their full potential.

I read some stuff on the eric gorr web site about this mod. When people say you'll have less torque. If you have a two stroke that doesn't have torque... how are you going to loose it. The engine creates torque...not the flywheel. You have to remember what a flywheel if for. Momentum to keep the motor running and it can aid in keeping if from stalling. Who rides a shee at such a low rpm that it's going to stall. With a twin cylinder you have plenty of momentum.

Do it like winterizing a boat. I would fill the gas tank to the brim and use fuel stabalizer. Of course I'd empty it when I got back. This will prevent any water from forming in the tank from condensation. The stabalizer will keep the gas from breaking down and leaving deposits. Leaving the carbs empty is a good idea though. The yamalube should work but you may want to use fogging oil. I think it will stick to the cylinders and parts better. It will also stick to the crank and everything else in the motor. You don't want water sticking to it from condensation. Grease everything you can. Tip your quad up so the head lights are facing the sky to drain any water out of the frame. Then set it on blocks to keep the suspension releived. Lube the crap out of the chain and cables. Use a cable lube kit. That will keep rust and water out of them. Keep it covered. I wouldn't plug the exhuast air tight. You don't want the condensation to stay in the pipes and cylinders when the temp changes. Make sure your coolant is 50/50 at least. You don't want the cylinders cracking (depending where your going to store it) That's about all I can think of right now. Look up winterizing a boat for more ideas. It's the same idea. Have fun in Korea

Exactly what I was going to say. Usually you can get some vise grips on the outside edge and break it loose enough to screw out.

So where do you think all that dirt goes if it's not on the filter

So far so good for me on the 24th. Are you guys camping or just going for the day.

Check the two wires that go to your coil. Mine was rattling around and then fell off. That may be your spark trouble. Also, if you think it's your tors, disconnect the little black box under the tank on the left side. That will eliminate the tors circuit.

Bigwill, who in the hell would look at that pic and think of homer simpson. Not what I would have been thinking... geez.

Well, I know you've probably already used it and I'm sure it was fine. Just wanted to note that castrol gtx doesn't have the friction modifiers in it. That's what I run also.

Qualcom also make a good phone.

That might could work

The stock yamaha head gasket is the best gasket you can put on a stock head though. It WILL seal much better. That might make you sleep a little better

Hey man, I was wondering if they'd run some kid sizes. I need two youth Mediums and 1 youth large. Pm me a price and I paypal you the money. Thanks Rodney

The wiseco cranks have what appears to be the same quality bearings as a standard crank. It should last just as long. If you use a standard length rod I guess it may wear the bore out faster in theory. Dan at patriot doesn't think it needs to have long rods until it a 7mil stroker. You are only changing the stroke each way by 2mm. I don't think that's enough to wear the bore noticably faster. If you by a wiseco crank it will have longer rods on it and may actually increase the life of the bore. They say you may loose some top end with strokers if the rods are to long. Stroke is suppose to add bottom end. But, if you have it properly ported, pipes and use the proper carbs, you will be flyin. I am not an engine builder but this is what I have read and been told. Take it as you will. If someone has a different opinion please post it.

Are you going to have kid sizes. If so I'll need two adult and three kid shirts.

That'll be your call. A lot of people just put rings in. In my opinion if you have enough hours to wear out a set of rings, I'd be putting pistons in too. Rings are $40 or so and you can find a piston kit for around $130. Why have to replace the engine for $90 that you could spend now? Just an opinion. When a piston fails the skirt breaks normally. The pieces go through the crank, clyinder and damage the head. Spend the extra $$$ now and save in the long run. Oh, what it your altitude. Maybe your compression isn't really that bad. A way to tell if your rings are worn is to put a tablespoon of oil in the cylinder and re-do the compression test. If the numbers stay the same your rings are most likely fine and the gauge may be off. If that's the case, I don't see a problem because the cylinders have the same compression..... Again, just my opinion.

You may be using a really clean burning oil. You may have to go by how it runs.

I have the same problem. I just hit it with an impact a few times. It just made the insert spin more but it loosened the nut a little. I put some force on it with a screw driver while I was doing it. It gave me enough clearance to just cut a slit ion the plastics so the slide on now. It still holds good enough I don't have any trouble.

That big sprocket helps on the long drag races.