I moved my airbox back. You may need to get creative too. Zip ties and bending the rear tabs back works. Some will say just run pods... and it would be a hell of a lot easier. I keep my airbox and I'm glad I did. Coalfest was a water hole from all the rain. I had a blast in it while most were dodging puddles.
I'm going to see what I can do about going. Man, this forum has changed again.
Meat, they don't look for reg, vins, titles, nothing. You go to the gate when you first get there and they ask how many stickers you want. That's about it... lol
To tell you the truth, I won't use anything with heim joints. I see so many that are sloppy and have heard a lot about them coming apart. I'll stick with my ricky stators. About $500
As far as shocks.... I have aftermarkets. I sent them in to have them rebuilt and put stockers on. I felt like I was on a trampoline when going through the whoops. I do ride whoops hard but man, what a difference. I put it back on the truck after 5 min and waited for my shocks to get back.
You best bet is to buy the a-arms you want without getting the cheapest or get the stockers off ebay. Save up and buy better shocks if you feel you need them. If it rides fine for the way you ride it, just stick with stockers. You can get the stockers pretty cheap then you won't feel like you have to buy aftermarket shocks. You will benefit from aftermarket suspension though..... tremendously.
I have the same carbs. I cut 6 coils out of each one. I have never had a problem with it. After cutting the coils, you can stretch them out a little if then need to be longer.
Mine burn like that too with the oil I run. Super clean maxima tundra R. You need to look into the plug at the porcelain at the bottom. There should be a ring in there. If it's really black.. which I bet the one on the right is, it's rich. You're ideal jetting is 2mm brown ring at the bottom. By looking at the strap, the plug on the right is rich. Did it sputter on top end with the highest jetting you ran?
You don't need to remove the basket. When putting it back together make sure you line the arrow on the pressure plate to one of the arrows on the fingers of the basket. Also, if the clutches have any marks on the rotate and stagger them on tooth (on the basket) each. Some plates don't have marks and it won't matter.
Straight for Eric Gorrs web page
10) When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are; 1) Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand. 2) Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn't have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize.
My water pump sounds like a plastic screwdriver bouncing around in the engine. That may be the noise you're hearing. As far as vibration...I'd have to see or hear it but I bet it's normal. Has it always been this way or is the Shee new to you?
I use Mirc and it works. I was told that it became unregistered.. whatever that means. That's probably why it doesn't work through java. I was wondering why it's always empty.
Rzcolobanshee... What's going on!!!!!!