fixitrod

LMAO, I was confused because you asked how to relocate it. Then you said you didn't ask how to relocate it. That's all. If you want to remove it you can. Just leave an small overflow hose hanging from the mouth of the radiator. I do want you to know the coolant bottle does work like that in a car. It will suck up coolant from the bottle when needed. I moved mine to the front and don't loose much if any coolant anymore. I use to loose it all the time when it was in the back. Most people don't have any problem at all with no coolant bottle. I did notice BenBB doesn't have one but he had to add coolant every once in a while at roostfest.

The lt80's have more aftermarket parts than you would think. The honda 90's are quads that can be upgraded real nice too.

I'm confused.

You got that right matt. I close on my other house the 2nd. That's a stress relief!! I did get my rims flipped and am not at a standard +2 on each side. I like it a lot better. I do know about haspin and the badlands. I was hoping for somewhere to ride that I can load the truck up after work and just go ride. I did check out the mx track here in Fort Wayne. Practice is like $10 or $15 and it's a lot bigger than the indoor mx track. I think I might try that track out. I've never been on an mx track. Looks like fun though. If anyone know of some land that's kind of unclaimed that people ride, let me know... please.

here's how http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html

First Quad I owned was the banshee I have right now. I've had a couple dirt bikes before, but this is my first quad.

A lot of dealers can get you some weisco rings. What size are you looking for. You can use stock reed gaskets for the vforce cages. I know they look different, but they'll work.

Tors works when the thumb throttle doesn't match the tors switches on top the carbs...up or down. It doesn't care.

You may have to bleed them with a vacuum. I've heard they can be tough. I just pump up the brake and have someone crack the bleeders open and close them then release the brake handle. Repeat until no air comes out of the bleeders.

Start with unplugging your tors. It's a little black box under the gas tank on the left toward the front. Also, make sure your parking brake switch isn't activated at the clutch perch.

I just moved to Fort Wayne IN. I'm looking for riding areas!!!!! And people to ride with. Anybody that has some ideas... please!!!! Let me know!!!!fixitrod

I just moved to Fort Wayne IN. I'm looking for riding areas!!!!! And people to ride with. Anybody that has some ideas... please!!!! Let me know!!!!fixitrod

sweet. i think ill try that. Did it work for you?

Did you ever figure out what was happening.

Mine never stays clean enough to get a good pic... lol

I only posted some pics for Holyman. It's his idea and rebuild info.

There are ups and downs to both cut head and spacer. With a cut head you have one less gasket and gasket surface to fail. Here's something I have heard about spacer plates. If you get a spacer and the proper builder, you can gain transfer volume which the banshee is short on anyway. You can also have the spacer epoxied to eliminate the gasket surface failing. It's up to you and the builder you choose. I can also tell you that you definitley want it ported to match the extra stroke.

Start with adjusting the pilot screws on the airbox side of the carbs for the starting problem. As far as overheating problems, I don't have any. I use to loose a lot of coolant until I moved my bottle up front. Here's how http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html

Here's leds link http://www.albaaction.com/atv/customer/ima...brandonking.jpg

There really is no best. There are people that do great work and those who don't. The ones who do have there own was of porting that just makes them different, not the best.

Boy aint that the truth. I had +2's with the rims flipped. That was a little rough in the woods. I put the rims back to stock. I use ricky stator a-arms. For $500 you can't beat them. They have REAL ball joints to. Not the Faddish heim joints. I just don't like heim joints like most people do. They seem to have to many problems. As far as shocks, the individual that sets them up will make all the difference in the world. Valving, spring size, oil weight, it all makes a difference. It boils down to how much your budget it. Lonestar does make a good axle.

I have a suggestion for you. Buy some new carbs. I know this sounds crazy, but by the time you spend $70 on a kit and your time, you could just get some aftermarket carbs... or close to it. You can sell the stock carbs to make up some of the difference. You may have a $100 difference when said and done. You'll also eliminate the trouble of riding through water that the stockers have. I'm not saying go bigger, just better. That's just a suggestion. I've been there done that. Also, aftermarket carbs have easier setups for jetting. The kit's not hard to install either.

You may have a head gasket leak... or oring.

Those coalfest shirts were sharp man. Thanks.

I tried the grease, I tried sanding the slides... I even polished the slides with a dremel. Those stock carbs suck ass for water. That's all it comes down to. I did find that when they stick, they do stick at the choke holes in the slide. I could get the problem to repeat itself. I don't know why the vacuum build up. I never did try pulling the choke will it was running that way like yamahammer did. I still think it has something to do with the choke circuit. Someone (I think streetshee) put good clamps on the choke tube and it resolved his problem so far. That's the only thing that makes since after the hrs I spent on them. I even called and talked to an engineer at yamaha but since the technology was old, they wanted nothing to do with it.