fixitrod

Wouldn't that be nice.

Wheel not bolted on all the way

I surely don't run nos or anything but I just wanted to let you know I don't run a crossover tube at all. A lot of people dont.

Meat use to have a step by step on his web page. I can't find it right now though. You don't want it to tight or it won't baffle the sound. Banchetta uses some flame retardent something and his is louder than hell. It's real tight stuff. Just get some fiberglass insulation or silencer packing and wrap it around the outside of the tube with holes in it. Safety wire every 6-8" helps make it east to put back together. Moose silencer packing is made to just wrap it around. It's not a loose fiberglass. The instruction are on that package.

I had the offset rims and didn't like them. To much bump steer. And, when I got into soft stuff it'd pull me around. I switched back

I've heard that the transfer windows can be where a majority of the power gain comes from. You have to get fuel in before it can go out. Does dremel make some kind of 90* tool.

I agree. You were probably broke in after half tank if you did warm up cycles.

they do not, just a bit of carbon build up. I have to agree with the theory there. If the top of the pistons were fine I'd say it's from a previous tragedy of the crank going out on somebody. That isn't from a crank going out... it's from a crank that already went out.

You can get tons of power without a stroker crank also. Right now from what your saying I'm going to guess jetting may be part of your problem but that 2-1 carb is built for low end. If you switch it back to a two carb set-up you may be more happy with it.

Just so you know, wiseco called me back and said a standard rod length wiseco hotrod crank does NOT come welded.

Depending on your mods of course you will most likely gain enough top end to pull a taller gear.

With tooling and fixturing, it can get REALLY expensive. For example, for my billet bearing carriers I make, I had to buy a $700 indexable drill. It uses carbide inserts to cut that material. Its 1.6875 in diameter and has a length of cut of nearly 6 inches. The pie jaws I bought to hold the aluminum stock were over $200.00. Then it took nearly a day (at $75.00 per hour shop rate) to cut the neccesary offset in those jaws because I had to bolt the jaws to the chuck, then take the chuck off the lathe and put it in the mill, and I had to have a fixture to hold the chuck solid and square in the mill....and the chuck weighs in at over 200 lbs. For those cases, you have to hold them some how, and a vise isn't gonna cut it. You have to bolt the part down to a plate of steel, and it has to be accurite and precise, and repeatable. We make a fixture for a company once to hold something they needed held. It turned into a $10,000 job. They made 1000x that from our jig though. The cases are also deep, no matter how you hold them. You can't just stick a long endmill in there, it has to be larger in diameter to be long. Rigidity is everything. AND if you have a long endmill, you can't cut with it super fast. It will shatter. That's just the accesories. How about the machines that actually do the work...

I just have pwk's 35mm. Unscrewing the tops, take out a 6mm "retainer" adjust the needle and put it back together is so freakin easy. I'm guessing a lot of aftermarket carbs are that way. Those clips in the stock carbs kind of suck. The biggest trick of any carb is learning how to hold the spring into the cap with the throttle cabled pulled all the way down before you start.

Damn right. My needles were TOO rich this last weekend at the dunes. If I ran at 1/2 throttle, it would start to bog...then it would literally chug at idle until it cleaned out..then it was fine. With these stock carbs it takes me over an hour and a half to change the needles...... I really liked Fixitrods carbs...what was it, 10 minutes maybe? Maybe

There is a search function at the top on this site. I've answered this same question 3 or 4 times in the last month. Eric Gorr has built motors for a very long time. I use his method for breaking in a motor... Here they are from www.ericgorr.com Breaking In a New Bottom End The new lower end will need some patient break-in time. The best way is to let the engine idle for three separate 10-minute sessions with a 20-minute rest period between sessions. You don't need any extra pre-mix oil because the engine load is minimal when the engine is idling. Top end break in 10) When you initially start the engine after a rebuild, manipulate the choke to keep the engine rpm relatively low. Once the engine is warm enough to take it off choke, drive the vehicle around on flat hard ground. Keep it under 2/3 throttle for the first 30 minutes. Two common myths for proper engine break-in are; 1) Set the engine at a fast idle, stationary on a stand. 2) Add extra pre-mix oil to the fuel. When the engine is on a stand it doesn't have any air passing through the radiator and it is in danger of running too hot. When you add extra oil to the fuel you are effectively leaning the carb jetting. This can make the engine run hotter and seize.

Usually sputtering is rich. It'll pull real hard once you get out of "too rich". If you get lean it just won't pull hard. It may even just about dye when you "stab" the throttle.... like it's ran out of gas.

You might be able to break it free with a punch and a hammer then get it out of there. Mine has never done that so I'm not sure. It should fall right out though with a magnet pulling on it. It happens to a lot of people. Good luck. Let eveyone know how you got it out. I may have to look this thread up way day to fix mine.

Been there dont that. If I go muddin we'll usually have a 4x4 there to pull us out. Haven't done it in about 2 yrs though. Not serious muddin.

With that head it was to high. .050-.060. I have a noss head on the way.

I heard that you can get more from a 4mm standard length rods. 7mm is where you "have" to have the long rod for reliability

Gary has a great warranty! Call him up, he will beat any deal out there, just give him the opportunity! I have heard that also combat. He's good to deal with.

Okay, here's a theory. The only thing I can think of is your crank started to seperate and that put enough side force on the pin in the slot to make it shear.... or the hole in the bearing was machine a little off. Or, you did it when taking it apart but those things seem tough.

I don't trust jb weld. I'm still curious how the hell it broke. If I remeber right, that pin look as though it is tapped it. It's hollow with a split in it. If so, the best thing probably to do is have a machine shop get that pin out and just tap a new one in. How do you think that pin broke.. that's drivin me nuts... lmao

To bad it's one of the inner bearings. The outer bearing are a piece of cake to replace. My stroker crank only had orings to hold the races in place. And the bearing that did have a nub wasn't like the stock crank. It was just a little bump. Here's a pic. Now that I look at the pic, I don't even see any nibs. Maybe that was my hotrod stock stroke crank I'm thinking of. I don't think it needs much to hold that race, You just don't want it spinning free in there.

And the squish wouldn't be right on the domes. You'd be buying new domes anyway.