fixitrod

This is number 6 6. Always install the rings on the piston with the markings facing up. Coat the rings with pre-mix oil so they can slide in the groove when trying to install the piston in the cylinder. That is what a lot of builders do. But, the instructions that come with wiseco pistons actually say there is no top or bottom. It's a small piece of paper with red writing on it. I probably still have one at the house. Oh, by the way, eric gorrs website is the shit for general motor questions. He really knows his shit.

You can see in the plug with a flashlight too. A magnifying glass is helpful.

I run a 40 pilot in my 35pwk in my stroker with fmf fatties.

Yep, they are bad ass.

I'm surprised you didn't get the recipe for that antifreeze stuff, and what ever it was Mr.Matt left out on his table. lol... Made the dunes look like I was walking on the moon or mars or something. I think you just miss me Stan.

Wiseco rings do not have a top and bottom. Some builders like to put the number side up but the instructions say it does not matter.

This is a fantastic idea. I wish I would have thought of it. I have recalibrated my torque wrench within the past two resealing attemps, so thats not it. Thank you for all of the advice. Make sure those cylinders seal. I'd rather have a coolant leak that's obvious than an air leak that's not. It is a great idea however to prove if it's the cylinder matting surface or the head. I never thought of doing it that way.

Have you tried it yet?

Probably a small air leak.

I know there are some crazy A$$ drink recipies out there. Let us know what you know. Give us the amounts of alcohol used and what it's called.... and maybe a simple description of how it tastes... sweet, sour, bitter, etc...

I have the propegs with -2 pegs. You can not get the heel gaurds with the -2 pegs. I do like the wide pegs, but you can get them from a lot of vendors. I make a joke that ac started making a-arms and frames because their workmanship sucks ass. I did modify them to make them stronger. If you don't ride a ton, the pegs dullings isn't a real problem. You can sharpen them with a dremel. As far as the fit, I guess once you get them to fit, they'll be fine. Took me three sets. Then I bought an ac front bumber. I had to beat the crap out of that too. I won't have anything ac after that.

Gettin the first punch is a bitch.

When you get the head about 1/2 to 1/4" from setting on top of the cylinders peek under it with a flashlight. I use grease on mine and never had a problem. I've only taken it off 3 times though. Maybe there is something wrong with the head or the set of orings you have. Try the flashlight thing and make sure the orings stay in the head when dropping it on they stay in. If so, maybe try some new orings. If still no luck, it has to be the head or the cylinders are seating all the way creating a flat surface for the head to sit on.

I took a piece of old bed rail I had laying aroud and welded two bolts that lined up with the holes in the flywheel. You could just drill some holes and run a bolt and nut through it too.

Even new clutch plates only need about 15 min worth of soaking. If you have a stock clutch you can get the fiber and steel thickness tolerances from the clymers manual. Other than that, by feel once you get it running. It the clutch was fine when when the quad broke down, it should be fine now.

Glad to see the needles worked out for you!!!

No problem.

Here's a chart I found through google

Gear oil and motor oil are weighed differetly. I believe wheatchex posted a chart a couple years ago that showed 80/90 gear oil was close to that of 10w30. I'll have to look around. But yes, bad oil or the wrong oil can cause some troble. The advice of getting something for wet cluctch is right on.

People almost alway replace them at the same time. I personally think it's not needed but cheap insurance. You can roughen the plates if you already have aftermarket plates and they aren't to thin. I don't know the specs though on thickness. You can tell if they are aftermarket if they don't have a little "tab" on the outside edge. Kind of hard to explain. If you look in the clymers manual you'll know what I'm talking about. You definitley want at least three heavy springs in there though.

You can also cut the stock perch and it will look like a regular perch. The best part, It's free to cut it.

It will work fine. I have a moose brand I think. It has a bearing in the hand part where it meets the perch. I used the stock cable.

I think that Kerry fella needs som BALLS. Walt, I think the car salesmen and the saran commit describe it all...

Nightrider, I'm not questioning you one bit, just letting you know that it works fine for my shee. Sounds like you know a hell of a lot more about it than I.

I actually use anti-seize with mine. It's been fine for 3 yrs