fixitrod

I had the same problem. Here's what I found. There is a cam that looks like a flat head screw to adjust the shift claw (what ever it's called). It's suppose to be centered on the shift star. Mine looked to be adjusted properly but I got to messing with it and found the cam retaining lock nut was loose. So, whenever I was on the gas it wouldn't grab the next gear because the adjustment was out. I tightened that up and haven't had a problem on 4 good hard rides. I use to have it all the damn time.

I don't have any to measure.

Take a pic and we can tell you some of the obvious mods.

Those were the first two things that came to mind for me also. What jetting are running? Does it bog or sputter and at what throttle position?

Okay, I did some research on the clutch plates. The fzr600 and 1000 have the exact same part number as the stock banshee fibers Go figure. There are about 30 machines that use the same fibers. Even the barnett part numbers are the same.

Why not the 35mm pwk airstryker. I think they have a little acceleration pump for instant throttle response.

I think the true yamaha ones have a line around the gasket that is a sealer. The aftermarket ones I use do not.

It's a great site for the banshee owner. Welcom to the hq. If you have questions, check out the search function above. If you can't find it ask away. You'll get an answer for sure. There is also a chat room that can be slow at times but it's nice. Have fun with the banshee addiction, there is no cure.

That's one thourough auction for a locknut. Why are you selling it.

I've never used sealer on base gaskets.

Here's something I've learned on the track. The guy that learns to brake last into a corner and hit the gas with traction first wins the corner. Waiting to break is key!!! As far as the skill to turn fast, the suspension mods will help but it won't get better without practice practice practice.

You can get the adv one at motoworld for $65. That for the 5yr warranty one.

Mr Obvious... lmao

I didn't really try them all... lol. I just wanted to bump it.

back in again. 1:43 thursday

Here's the summary from that page. Good page by the way. Summary To sum up, the cast piston is light and very dimensionally stable. It is found in high-rpm mass-produced engines that are not subject to modification or prone to detonation. The piston is however fairly brittle, and the cost of its manufacture has limited its availablity outside the OEM sources and applications. On the other hand, the forged piston is inherently heavy and less dimensionally stable. It is a good choice for engines in which detonation is probable, and its wide availability has made it the choice of engine modifiers. The special demands of these end users has given the forged piston its own niche in the powersports market. The next time someone tells you how superior one piston type is over another, tell them the truth. Because, as Paul Harvey likes to say, "Now you know the rest of the story." Hold the fries, please.

It's thursday Oct 28 in the morning. Come on in!!

Well, I've tried all these... anymore

That would be a good idea

http://www.mztech.fsnet.co.uk/workshop/wrk_piston.html This page may help. I'm having a hard time with the pics

It'll blow over.

absoulutes been around for a long time guys.

If it just started it could be either the cold air making it lean or the impellar then.