fixitrod

What the hell is the steering wheel for?

let us know how you like that g force axle.

How about the crank seal? Did you check your ring gap? Is the bore right? Are the oil jouranls at the bottom clear? How did it blow?.. melt, rings, crank? You need to make a leak down tester with a vac and pvc.

Wish I live near you..lol.

There currently is no bearing in there. It's a cheap ass grinder. They put an insert with a hole and that's it. It last a little while. It got so much slop in it the gears don't mess right now. If I put a bearing in there it'll last a lot better. Boonman, that 10mm 12mm 32mm might work. I seen that on another site too but I didn't want to order a pack of 10..lol.

If you have a welder you can make a simple holding tool. Just weld two short screws to some flat stock the line up with the holes in the flywheel. Make sure not to put it in to far or it will hit the stator. I learned this when I saw a tool mat made.

You can screw an old pressure plate and clutch plate together and slide it in there. Then, stick a shop rag between the primary and clutch basket gear. It may take more than one fiber and steel. They can bend.

Finding the balance point is key. I've been working on my wheelies lately and can balance and ride them so slow it will want to stall. It's all about poping it up high enough and using the rear brake and gas for control. My goal has always been to cat walk a wheelie. Now I can finally do it. Shorteneing my swingarm helped to I think.

I need a bearing for my angle grinder. All I have are the demisions... no numbers. It's a off brand cheapo and they didn't even use a bearing in the head. Just so metal bushing but a high speed bearing would make it run even better. Outer race 1.260" Inner race .489 Thickness .387 Now these demisions are what I measured. If theres something out there just slightly different let me know. I'll double check my measurements. Rodney

Were are you located? Maybe someone can come help you out. If it's really hot on the left and not the right I'd be worried about a crank sea or an intake boot leaking. l. What made you rebuild it in the first place?

I run a stock pressure plate and inner hub with a hinson basket and barnett dirt digger clutch on my stroker. Are you sure something else didn't get in there to tear all that up. I don't see how the broke unless something broke and tore the rest of it up. Weird. As for the fix, I'd split the cases. If you have debris in there that won't hurt the tranny it may make it past the crank seal and blow your motor. Replace all the seals while you're in there. It's not that bad of a job really. You can do it all in a day if you get rolling on it. Rodney

I'd put the swingarm on first. It will stiffen it up and you may be happy with it. It only takes a few minutes to pull the shock off if you want to rebuild it later. I had mine rebuilt while putting a -2 swingarm on and it came out to stiff. Try it first and see what you think.

I have had trouble with vitos and cometic head gaskets before.

The more master links you have the more chance for failure.... but yes, you can add more chain by using another masterlink. I've done it before.

Unistall any toolbars you may see in add remove programs. click start run type msconfig look at the startup folder I bet you see a couple things in there that don't belong. One may be cnbabe or a toolbar. Uncheck them. Run adaware, spybot and spysweeper. They are all free downloads. Run each one until it runs clean. Make sure if you have multiple drives, make sure the program is setup to run on all of them. If you have windows xp you can look at the event log also. It may tell you which program is causing your trouble. right click on my computer click manage click the + next to event viewer click system and look for errors double click it and it'll give you an idea of what the errors are You can also look under application for events.

The "grabber" can also get bent in and the rivet from the pivot of the grabber will grab the shift star. It doesn't make since now, but You'll see what I'm talking about when you pull it apart. Whatever it is, you may be able to just straighten it.

Here's some more info. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=34987&hl= I have researched the clutch issue and street bike clutch. fzr 600 has the same fibers as the banshee. Even the barnett part numbers are the same. I imagine if you buy a super high quality kit for the fzr it may be stronger... but I'm guessing the stock fibers may be a good choice if it can handle the fzr. Funny thing is, the part numbers are the same and the price is twice that for the banshee than the fzr go figure. This is at www.ronnies.com anyway. I went to a shop and there were tons of bikes that use the same fibers. fzr uses a different basket than the banshee. barnett steels and most aftermarket steels are the same thickness as the stock.. .045 to .047 good oil and stiffer springs make the most difference in the clutch for the money. I'd like to see what springs the fzr is using. Guess I'll have to go check on that you can roughen the steels in your clutch if the thickness of the fibers and steels are okay dexron 3 tranny fluid made my clutch quit sticking when reving in gear alot of the shifting trouble my banshee has had is due to the cam adjuster for the shift shaft. It was loose and had a groove in it from the spring. I ground off the grooves and tightened the hell out of it after adjusting. Shifts fine now. I thought my barnett dirtdigger clutch was toast, but when I opened it up it looked perfect. The trouble was the gear oil I was using. I think that's it. I hope that helps

That's what people buy the banners for If it became a pay site of any kind the amount of people would dramatically decrease. The amount of visual advertisement would go down and less businesses would be willing to pay for a banner. There is just to much free info on the net. Sure the old people of the hq understand what we have here, but we'll have nothing without new people.

Same here.

Just wondering what the paid subscription is for under my controls. I haven't heard anything about this.

I'm not sure why you need one but I just worked on mine. I bent and tweaked it a little to make it tighter. It made a nice difference in the shifting. I also smoothed out the "pits" in the adjustment cam that the spring caused. I just ran it on a grinder and re-adjusted it. It's much more consistent shifting now.

I read through that and I still wouldn't buy heim joints unless until they improve the design. I've seen to many that are sloppy. I have ball joints and jump at a mx track. I don't have any trouble with them breaking. I'm over 200lbs. The banshee doesn't have enough suspension travel to benefit from the heim style joint unless you are going long travel. I'll stick with the reliable automotive type ball joints for my application.