fixitrod

Those are nice but I'm very surprised to see all those stock frames

I had no idea that worn seal surfaces could be repaired. I went to pick up a bearing and they had these on display.... http://www2.chicago-rawhide.com/speedi_sleeves.htm . Just thought I'd share incase somebody needed something like this. At the shop they said they haven't ran into any rpm limitations either. Oh, and you can use the original size seal becasue they are thin.

Looks like I'm out because I'm not driving cross country

Keith little buys his tires from a guy that works directly in the Hoosier tire factory. I talked to him one day. I lived about 15min from there. He seems to know what he's talking about. I can't remeber his name though. Here's the number 1-574-784-3152. Just let them know that you are trying to buy tires for tt racing on an atv and you'll get to him. This way you can talk straight to the pro's. These tires were originally designed for mini sprint cars.

Have you flipped your rims yet?

What he said !! Measure your steels. If they are .045 there is no reason to buy new ones. If they are much thinner than that.. you might want to just replace them.

Yep !!!!

He'll or She'll grow up to be a pro rider now. Congrats !!!!!

JT, I'm not in or out but I'd need to know if the truck would be willing to stop at 69 and 80/90 in Indiana. That'll be the start of my deciding factor.

I ran 360's to 390's with my fatty's on a mild ported engine depending on temp. Needle dropped down 1 notch lean from stock. I'm at 700 ft in Indiana.

You might just need a shift shaft adjustment. Get a clymers manual for sure. It will save you a ton of money in the long run!!!

I can run mine at almost one rpm until I run out of road. Usually because I'm not quite straight. I do have to say that the shorter swingarm helped a ton.

Test the switch with an ohm meter to make sure it's working properly.

If you want to give your clutch a shot, get stiffer springs and run good oil. You might be suprised to find out the stock fibers are actually pretty good.

I switched from gear oil to dexron 3 transmission oil. I was heasitant until I found out a lot of new trucks also use it in transfer cases. I don't have the pull in first gear any more with the clutch pulled in either. It shifts better and slips less. I think I'll stick with tranny oil unless someone has a reason not to.

The oil can make a difference. I don't know for sure if that's your case, but it can.

Just cut the back of the lid off up to the clips that hold it on.

Stiffer springs will make it last longer beacause it will slip less. Replace it when it starts to slip. You can also measure the thickness of the fibers and steels. The clymers manual has the values.. I don't know them off the top of my head. The steels should be around .047" new I believe.

I had the tors removal kit for the stock carbs and thumb throttle. That same cable has worked on 28mm mikunis and my 35mm pwk's. If you have the tors removal kit on there then you should be fine. I bet the slides connectors are similar to the pwk's.

CottenEyeJoe makes top quality stuff. You should see his stuff in person... . You won't be disappointed and you can't beat customer service. Just click on his banner at the top and see what he has. Click here to see his stuff.

You can also have someone pic the front of the quad up while you sit on it and see what the balance point feels like. It's higher than you think.

I found one locally for 2.90. If somebody doesn't have a free one I'll go pic that one up tomorrow.

Here's a part number I think might work if I could just get 1 instead of 10 at a time. 6201-2rs It's rated at 15,000rpms. It's 32mm outside, 12mm bore and 10mm thick.

Well now, if you have to do all that work, might as well make it faster...lol