fixitrod

If he has good cold compression, that shouldn't be a problem.

It does make it easier, but it sucks ass in water.

http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html Click that. It'll show you how to move the bottle up front. It's the best coolant upgrade I've every made.

You'll have to move the airbox back. You can zip tie it in place. We've all done our own rig jobs. If you have acess to a welder, you could cut the rear mounting tabs off and move them back. You can bend the clutch part down if it rubs the bowl.

I'm glad you liked it. Maybe you should have it shipped to glamis so you could try it out again...

It's not to bad but you do have to take the clutch off. You keep the cases together. If you have stock pegs you'll have to take them off, take the shift lever off, take the side cover off on the clutch side after draining it or tiping it on the left side. Take the clutch and basket off. Pull the shift shaft straight out and you'll be in. Meat has some good pics on his web site http://www.thebansheezone.com Here is the shift star. To the left and down you'll see a hole. That's where the shift shaft comes from.

One of the islands moved 100ft to. Crazy shit.

What til you through some 34mm or 35mm carbs on it. You'll gain from bottom to top.

I'm not super impressed with my razrs. I've been eyeballing those klaws my self.

Not if they're chrome.

You've got the idea. You have to play with the pipe combo and gearing for the type of riding you are doing.

If you gear down you will spin more. One tooth in the front is like 3 in the rear.

Are you sure your running on two cylinders before that point. Even toomey says those pipes are for stock motors. I like my fatties on my stroker motor too.

I've had fmf fatties from stock to 4mm stroker. I still don't want to get rid of them. RNBRAD is right about the fatties.

Start with the sponsors of this site!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! For a head pm dlnoss... best in the business. PassionRE owns passion racing. So far he's the most inexpensive to bore and hone the cylinders that I've seen. You'll have to pay shipping, but I'm sure he'll be able to get the piston kit you need and make sure it right. It'll be chamfered right too. www.modquad.com is a new sponsor of this site.. check them out. Billet stuff can be ordered through cottoneyejoe. He has a web site too that will show you all the stuff he makes. From billet grips to brake block offs.

Quicksand arms do look very sharp for the money. The ricky stators are plan jane, reliable a-arms. The pic on their sight makes it look like they say ricky stator, but the don't. They are plane grey.

www.rickystator.com

I've also had one of the wires fall off the coil like BenBB said. It's under the right pipe.

Don't forget the water pump is right there too. It could be the clutch though. Does the sound change when you let go of the clutch or pull it in?

The stator has two seperate circuits. One for ignition and one for lights. Could be a stator.

I run a stroker with a box and no lid. I dought I'd get much if any better results with pods.

Here's where it's a little tricky. You can loose some power, or pull, buy getting a littlle rich. Not enough to make it sputter, not enough that it boggs like when lean, just a tad to rich. Play with the needle like you said and see what happens. When you richened the main you allowed more fuel through the orfice that the needle can use. Maybe it's just a tad to much. You'll have to play with the needle to find out.

Yep, the weather got cold and you didn't jet up. Is it a banshee? The stock yfz are know for that. They come a little lean. Header pipe will turn bright red.....not good.

If you use a regular puller you will bend the flywheel. Get one from your local dealer for about $11.00

Here's what you need... click http://www.geology.enr.state.nc.us/gis/latlon.html or http://www.fcc.gov/fcc-bin/convertDMS Lon. = -114.89157 is 114