fixitrod

Or time to start getting creative. You can bend the two tabs on the back of the airbox back some. You can shorten the boots that go to the airbox by cutting them some. Time to get creative..lol

So what's goning on the end of april.. I can't remeber..lol. Silverlake or badlands.

When all that's done a lighter flywheel will help also. It allows you to brake later be there is less stored energy to push you. You have to be careful coming out of the corners though because the revs can come up to fast and cause the tires to sping to much.

You may need to add a washers to the top bolt of the carrier between the swingarm and the carrier. I think on the 87's they have a washer welded to the outside and on the newer ones it's on the inside.

If there aren't bad grooves in the clutch basket you may want to either let the tranny warm up all the way or try a new oil. (for the creeping problem). Mine does the same thing most of the time when cold. As far as the shifting problem it could be a shift fork or the shift fork adjuster is loose. I've also had that problem in the past.

How about the flywheel key.

A couple notes You should run compression as soft as the track will let you. If you are barely scraping on the biggest jump it's perfect. Spring adjustments are for ride height for the most part, not to make it take bigger jumps. You may need to go to a heavier springs if the vavling is close. Adjust rebound to keep the wheels on the ground but not so fast it's bucks you up on the jumps. You can't go fast if your wheels aren't on the ground.

Could be the chain jumping on the rear sprocket or back carrier bearings.

If you can straighten it without torching it do that. It will be stronger for the next spill

That compression on a cub . Bet that'll just about pull your arms off.

I don't know much about that and I hate to steer you away for a question like that but the guys at www.planetsand.com know a lot about the alky setups. I'm sure some do here but that's another place to check out for a hot setup like that.

I'd just stick with the stock needles.

It's modding a shee that cost money. They don't break any more often than other atv's... well, maybe some.. lol. It's a tool you'll use plenty if you plan to keep the shee around for a long time. Since you're 15, don't forget your gonna need to be saving for a car or insurance or something. I could have never afforde an atv when I was 15.. man.

Your best bet is to get a clymers manual. You have to take the left engine cover off and the flywheel. You'll need a flywheel puller. It goes behind the flywheel. Here' s a pic of a stator with a timing plate from www.rickystator.com It's the metal plate behind the electric parts. YOu'll keep your electrical parts.

Might be air leak. A pilot jet can cause havic...lol. Clean all the circuits in the carb with a bristle from a part cleaning brush.

Save $65 and get the stator brand. It's just cast instead of billet. Ricky Stator did everyone a favor when he started making those.

The fiber and steels put together with a wrag in the gears works for this too. I think I had to use two steel when I use to do it that way though. The started to twist and want to come out. I suppose it would work with one steel and one fiber screwed together if you can keep it straight in there.

Those are the idle screws for a stock banshee. Turn them all the way in and start backing them out the same amount. Adjust accordingly to get it to idle where you want it to. That is also how you sync the carbs. Really you should sync them first then turn the screws the same amount to adjust the idle.

So am I !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's something to think about. I wonder if that depends on the model of the different brands.

I don't want the cheapest !!! that's for sure. Just want to get some info on others that people aren't have trouble with. I ran 4 wheels through the cheap one in 2 days and it was shot.

Just looking at angle grinders. I have some off brand one and burnt it up really quick, not the motor but the gears. Anyway I don't need the most expensive.. just the most for my money. I've been looking at porter cable because all my other saws and sanders are porter cable. That doesn't mean they make a good angle grinder though. Oh yeah, I've been looking at makita too. Any other brands welcome of course !!! Let me know what you guys that use them a lot think.

Sounds good. I road jkjk's stroker with 28mm carbs and wow. The combo he has is snappy as hell. They should work fine for you.

Another nice thing about moving it to the front is you will not loose nearly as much coolant. I use to loose coolant every ride from riding realy hard. I moved it to the front and I can go several rides without worrying about it. It's mounted to high in the rear compared to the location of the radiator. If you ride hard and it start to come out it will siphon out. Then you'll be posting " it overheats, what could be the problem"... when it's not overheating.. .lol You might as well move it up front while your messing with it.