fixitrod

The banshee is my first quad. I use to only ride dirtbikes and I'd never put a twist on my banshee. You have to push and pull the handlebars to much. YOu don't use your body as much to turn or hang onto the machine.

Here's what I say.... Work it out between the two of you. Everyone has mix ups now and then.. I don't care how good you are. 1badbanshee, looks like you have plenty of stand up people to back you up so don't worry about it. mccann16, he is doing the best he can to make both of you as happy as possible. It's just a mix up... It can't be your first and def won't be your last. I'm sure you posted here because you felt out of options... he's working with you now. Carry on in private... the public board has made the contact you needed. Good Day

badbanshee... sell him set of magnum arms for $350 plus a set of stockers in good shape plus shipping. If he don't want them he doesn't have to buy them. lol

You can remove the parking brake and switch then cut the perch with a cutting wheel to make it look like any other perch. That way you don't have to buy one.

The ricky stator are cast like stated above. Just wanted to verify. I have one.

I guessing the shift shaft adjuster is loose or has a bad groove in it and has allowed the shift shaft to become out of adjustment. There is a cam the looks like it's a flat head screw under the clutch cover. It aligns the spring of the shift shaft sow the "claw" can be centered over the shift star.

Is there any chance you created an air leak when you put the new reeds in. That could play a big part in it starting hard. Does it start easier with the choke on or not.

To get most of that info you'd need more calculations that include rpm, bore sizes, jetting diameters or surface area fuel is being pulled from, angles.... the list goes on. ***EDIT*** That's why we just try it. If we don't like it we try something else... lmao

If you are seriously looking at drag racing like that make sure you check out the atv drag racing association page and www.planetsand.com for some info from people who race weekly. They can give great advice also.

If it got worse then you need to go the other way for sure. You never know who's on the other end at trinity. Another thing you can do is see if you need a longer needle. Drop the needle down. It might mess up your throttle response, but if it fixes the of idle problem you could get the same taper and diameter needle ... just longer. You'd be suprised how much the needle effects the full range on a pwk.

Okay, I read most but not all of this. I had a 4mm with 28mm carbs. I then went to 35mm carbs and swore I gained bottom and top end. People said no way in hell. Banchetta tried his stock carbs on a dyno with a 4mm and switched to 35mm pwk's and proved it to be true. He gained through the whole pwr curve. You have to take into consideration the porting too. Something else no one has brought up is the length of the carbs. Most larger diameter carbs are longer which helps bottom end too. The shape of the bore is a biggy too. Short carbs help top end. There's more to a carb than the size of the bore.

Did you wash the shee or get it wet.

Here's my take after riding with one. You are correct. But, when you already have to much pwr down low. Right now I would have to say the banshee flywheel is overweighted for most riding. When the banshee comes on sooner it's less likely to break traction because the pwr hit isn't as hard. With the heavy flywheel it takes to long to spin up. Then when it does it's nuts. With a lighter flywheel the pwr comes on now and is more controllable to the rider. We said the same thing... it just effects the banshee differently than the example for traction you provided. I know it doesn't sound right, but on the banshee it works. On a trials bike... heavy brass is the way to go. The banshee fires twice in one revolution. The crank isn't different but the pwr delivery sure is. The weight of the flywheel becomes useless sooner on a banshee (opening a new can of worms). A great thing about the lightened flywheel in the woods is the pwr is right now and doesn't show up so unexpectedly. Not have to hammer on the gas waiting for it to go as the four strokes roll past you. You can run into the corners faster and brake later. A lot of races are won by the person who brakes the best *** NOTE *** The only think negative about the lightened flywheel can be drag racing in sand at take off for a rider over 200 to 210 lbs. When you drop the clutch that weight can help get you out of the hole. After the wheels are spinning and the quads rolling.. the lighter wheel can benefit during shifting because it spins up faster... again, it's give and take.

Then do it.

I'm not sure about the hp, but the welding the crank is 50/50. There's a lot to getting that sucker out and paying to have it done. If you go real high on compression it is a good thing to do. High compression is expensive though. Crank welding, race gas, wear and tear. It does add more bottom end pwr.

If you're hitting the rev limiter you aren't high enough.

Here's the link for the k&n pod filters http://www.rockymountainatv.com/Machine_Sh...ar=1999&status=

Did you ever get into that pc

Just saw this post. First thing is learn the balance point. Help a friend lift the front end (turn the gas off) when it's not running. Have him hold it up at that balance point while you get on it. Sounds dorky but you will not ride a slow wheelie until you know this point. I learned the hard way... two grab bars later. Then, get use to popping it up real fast and using the rear brake to stop you before scrapping the grab bar... also practice hanging on when you do hit the grab bar. You'll get really good at popping it up before you know it, then you'll be really good at controlling the back brake. .... then you'll have it. Then you'll have to start using the clutch (which I'm still working on) to keep it running when you are going to slow. The reason the banshee is so hard is because you can't rely on the motor as much, you have to find the balance point and keep it there. When you want to slow a wheelie down you have to bring the front end a little higher than the balance point and just the opposite if you want to speed it up. Have fun and be safe.

Click on this link... it may help you figure out the hose routing too ..... http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html

If I wasn't on call and didn't have to work I'd surely go

It won't make or break the top end but the pilot does run at top end. It can effect it some.

I assumed it was a melt down or something. If you are just redoing the top end kerosene. I also missed the fast that it was a blaster...

3.5 cubic ft...