fixitrod

That will be great. I'm going to give Andy at grand river racing the go ahead. I'm not sure I want 80hp, but I sure do want more torque. I love the topend the banshee has, but I need some more "out of the corner" power. I don't race, but love to play.

Oh, I see. You can get a +4 crank long rod for $500, then you'll need either a spacer plate or your head modded. If you have an aftermarket head, you'll need the right domes. If you run standard pistons, I believe you need a 7mm plate. If you run wiseco 795 long rod series you will need a 2mm plate. Don't quote me.... my numbers may not be exact. You'll need the correct porting to be done. According to Vito, you need to have the bottom of the tranfers lowered 2mm for the extra stroke to keep the stock timing. I'm not sure how well that would work. I can see the logic, but I'm leaving it to a pro.

Banchetta actually dyno'd the different carbs. He's right. If your friend has stock carbs, you may just trade and get some cash for the whole set-up. Remeber though, if you ride in water, the stock carbs will stick. They hate water. I've tried everything I can think of to figure this out and I can't. I just bought new carbs. Are you sure you're not ported. That's big carbs for a stock motor.

Is it inside the cases. Could your flywheel be touching the magnetic pickup

He's just talking about rim size..... not tire size. I think with the smaller rim, your tire will have more of a curve to it. With that, a lot of the paddle will be in the sand when you take off. When you are flying, you are floating. Less paddle will be in the sand causing less drag. I went to silver lake this summer and most of the fast quads had 8inch rims. I'm guessing that's why. Also, if you run them low on air, the stretch the faster you get going. It's like drag tire. The final gearing to the ground goes up the faster you go. It's like changing your sprocket while riding...

You should get the .190's. The stock rims are probably tougher than the .190's are. I've dinged up my front .190's from jumping and trail riding. They are holding up fine though.

the 2x6 trick works good, get 2- 12" long bolts and put them in a 2x6, then put the bottom of the tire on the board put another piece of 2x6 with holes drilled for the bolts on top of the tire, put some nuts on and tighten and pop goes the bead everytime.....unless you have a vise that will spread that far Blue, that's great man. You should add that tid bit to the tips and trick. Home made bead breaker. Thanks for that!!!!

Check your compression, air filter (is it clean), head gasket, carbs may need cleaned out well (use an air compressor to blow out the circuits), bad fuel, idle to low, bad spark plug, etc...

These boxes fill up really fast now.

Okay Okay, I'm going to do it. My parts are sitting at grand river racing right now. I'm having him port the cylinders with his pro port and cut the head for the pistons to fit inside. Now I can't wait. MrMooney, who ported your cylinders?

It's more of a preference than anything. Forged pistons need to warm up longer but are much stronger. You'll have less chance of a skirt breaking with forged. I wouldn't run a cast piston. That's just me though.

I was working on catwalking the banshee. The very low end power is to unpredictable. Sometimes when you touch the gas just a little it gives great power and other time it's not enough. By the time you adjust for the time there isn't enough power, you drop the front end. Hopefully this will change with my new motor. I rode a 300ex, 200sx and my sons moto 4 80 and I can ride a pretty good wheelie for a while. Just not as controllable to me on a banshee.

If nothing else, you could add 3, 4, or all 6 heavy duty springs. I think that's the weakest link in the stock clutch. And, it'll be cheaper than replacing a clutch that's not worn out yet. I bet someone has 3 heavy duty spings laying around they could get you cheap.

huh

That's what I want. I'm not doing the big bore yet. I have to many good bores left in the cylinders. Do you think the low end gain was from the crank, pistons or just a combination of them both?

What is everyones advice on a 4mm increase in stroke for mx and trail purposes. My current mods are listed in my profile. My crank took a crap so I'm considering the 4mm and more porting.

Here's a pic of it http://216.37.204.202/yamaha_oem/YamahaATV...pe=13&A=73&B=10

Just trying to find out if anyone here runs a 4mm stroke on their shee. I may be getting one sense my crank went BOOM!!!!!! Just wondering where the power increase was. Thanks

No spring there. You'll see the spring and ball when you pull the kickstarter off. It's used to put pressure on the ball that keep the kick starter in place. It's small. You'll see it when you pull the kickstarter.

If you do a search, you may find the sight I posted. It's has the step by step.

Yep, that sounds right. You can't do it with the aftermarket steels because they don't have a tab on them.

Yeah, I posted that a while back and it was legit according to someone elses post.

Holyman use to have a "holyman tech" on that. He had pics and sizes to fix it right. I'm sure he'll chime in soon.

www.thebansheezone.com There are pics of the complete tear down.

How about a big bore stroker?