fixitrod

It depends on the oil recommendation. The oil is smart, not the motor.

You don't need to change the jetting that often. That would be if you were jetting exact at one point. Most people are jetted a little rich to compensate. But, a lot of people do not ride when it gets really cold. That's why most people don't mess with it. That's also why you hear "don't ride in the winter, it will blow the motor".

The whole bottom of the radiator will still be open. I'm sure it restricts air flow, but my buddies never overheated.

Yeah, I think the ground was mentioned eariler. I'd go there next.

No problem. I love a good deal.

What color is the smoke. It could be a head gasket also.

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http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/speed.xls That's a spreadsheet that benbb made. It's calculator that will tell you speeds at different gears, sprocket changes and tire changes. You'll need microsoft excel.

I remove the front plastics, top end, stator side stuff, clutch side stuff all while in the frame. It's easier to use the quad as a vise to hold the engine than doing it on the bench. I've done it a couple times now. I don't have belly skids, nerfs that need to come off. I leave them on.

I just won one of these stainless grills on another auction. I know it's simple, but my buddy had one just like it. It really made a difference on the appearance of the quad and it didn't overheat. I thought I'd post it for anyone that may be interested. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...item=2442097875

1 size per 15 degrees.

Have you tried new plugs. If your carbs are synced, your carb caps aren't leaking air and there isn't any other air leaks, you might just have a fouled plug. Go to your nearest auto parts store and save a buck or two. Have you changed anything recently.

I ride mine in the cold every year. If it's back firing, you may be lean for your temps or your jet may be gunked up a little.

If that's with the clutch basket on, make sure the kick starter gear has the e-clip on it. I had the e-clip come off once and the gear rubbed the basket making a sound. If it does it with the basket off and your sure it's from that shaft, You may have a problem inside. Try to use what you've seen trying to find the trouble and some pics of the cases split to determine what might be causing that noise before you tear it apart.

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I agree completly. I tried that and I had to shift all the time and it reved out in gear so fast, it just didn't pull. Go bigger on the front and you'll see... it feels like it pulls harder... longer.

Okay, I see. I thought I was needing a lesson in something new.

Yep!!!!!

It really easy if you take the top end off first. I took mine all the way down to the crank. From start to finish of tear down... about 2hr and 6 beers

Bore Area = Bore x Bore x pi / 4. (pi has a value of 3.14159) Volume of cylinder is bore area times stroke

Could you elaborate a little on that

At least it broke then and not when you dropped the clutch on your first run.

Ding Don't know about the namura pistons, but the rest sounds good to me.

Just doesn't seem reeds would crack on both cylinders. You say you have backfires on both cylinders. Is it possible you have bad gas.

I had a similar problem with nerf bars. I received them banged up. I called them and they said sorry but you have to call AC. Confused, I tried AC. Trying calling the ford factory if you have a problem with your ford truck... it's not easy. I eventually just sent them back but it took a couple months to get my money back. I sure as hell wouldn't put a piston in my shee that's been banged up..