fixitrod

Is the shaft that has the arrow on it seated down in all the way and has the black metal piece holding it in place. Other than everything mention, you should be good to go. Also, are you lining the arrow on the pressure plate to the arrow on the inner basket hub?

You should be able to blow most of it out. If you really want to clean the crank though, you'll have to split the cases. You still may not get it all out because there are bearings in the web of the crank that you may not be able to get to very well to clean them. How much sand made it in there? You're making it sound pretty bad.

Fatten the jetting, make sure the cooling system has enough anti-freeze and have fun. It was 65 here yesterda and it's going to be 22 here today. This cold fronts a trip. It's snowing here so I know what you mean about it's getting colder.

I agree with boonman. It's easier to take the topend off with the motor in the bike in my opinion. If you want to take the whole motor out, I suggest taking it apart on the bike... clutch side, stator side, and top end, then pulling the motor out. It's a lot lighter and easier to handle.

I paid $2.50 for mine. Avanced auto parts sold them. I had pics posted on old forum. I guess I'll have to load the pics to the net If I want to post them this time. Anyway ... www.partsamerica.com They own checkers and advanced auto parts. If you called them, I'm sure they can hook you up. I don't have the thread size handy.

As far as getting into the bottom end .... the fuel goes to the bottom end before it goes into the top. If you caught it that fast, you may not have a problem. If you're really concerende, you could take the topend off and flush the bottom out really good. Doesn't sound like you would have pulled in very much though. After you do what ever you choose, (take it apart or just clean the carbs and run it), do a compression check. You're carbs should be fine, just clean the up and use compressed air.

I'll host the pics if you want to email them to me Holyman!!!

I have a hot rod crank that is recieving a new left side main bearing I will be selling when I get it back from my builder. I bought a 4mm while I had it out. The bearing did go bad but the crank has 3 light years on it. PM me with an offer. I'll have some very good pics when I get it back.

uh oh!!!!!! Leds got a fan club.

I don't know why this is so funny, but lmfao. Gotta watch out for those commectors.

Can't beat that BenBB.

Congrats. Now you will have no extra money and divorce papers. Good Luck....

Just a note, you can get the port timing close with the templates just fine. The thing you have to remember is the angles at which to cut them.

You have to take the whole clutch cover over. There is a pin on the back side that you will have to take of the shaft. First you pop off the plactic gear and then you'll see the pin. To change the seal, you have to pop the bearing out after the impellar is out.

Did you adjust your gearing for the 18" tires?

You really should get a clymers manual. To get the side cover off you have to remove the foot peg... I think(I have nerfs with pegs built in, take off the kick starter, take off the brake ( 2 allen bolts) if you want to make it a little easier and you have to pull the dip stick out. The dip stick will hang if you don't take it out. Make sure to drain the coolant and the oil. I don't take the impellar out when I do it. You just have to unhook the vent hose from under the frame. Then tap the cover with a mallet.

I'd like to hear others opinions on that also. I run a k&n and Andy at Grand River Racing recommend I change to a foam for riding in dirt.

Spoiled.... It's hard to answer that question. The top speed will depend on gearing. That motor should pull some serious gearing. The benefit is you'll get to that speed faster. Should have some nice pull. Just wondering,..... why 7 degrees.

Nah, they'll just get you there way faster. You may gain a little top speed because the pipes allow the engine to get a little higher rpm. It all revolutions.

I just seen a ghost. WOW... hey brooke. Where ya been hidding.

They estimated 55" for us last year and we got 60". They estimate 95" for us this winter.

If you use a standard rod, you use a standard piston.

I'm in the lake affect area of indiana. It's fun at first, but it gets old after a while. It's suppose to be 65 here today though. Record highs...

Yammahammer, your finding are very interesting. Holyman theory was the freeze theory mine is a vacuum of some sort. The reason I find it interesting is the position the carbs to stick. The stop just below the choke holes you are talking about. The reason I think it's vacuum is because the slide drop the second the motor stops. They don't stick anymore. I don't have stock carbs anymore because I was afraid sand was going to make it's way through my choke. I felt a little grinding on the choke when I pulled it out. This was after my first trip to the dunes. Before that, I was the guinea pig for testing because I could create the trouble with a garden hose everytime time.

I have seen them with about half of the center cut out of them. Then the rest radiused.