fixitrod

One thing to rember is to set your ring gap. A lot of people seem to forget about that.

He's talking about wot Banchetta. I chatted with him about this the other day. Demon350... wot is wide open throttle. The choke is going to make it richer by pulling it. Keep this in mind and it will help you remeber what's the difference is. If you pull the choke at wot and it runs better, you are lean. If you pull the choke at wot and it runs worse then you are right on or rich.

If you have the money, go for it. I just took one on my last break in run yesterday. It's pulling into the powerband solid now. The amazing thing I noticed was how usable the power is. Sometimes I forget I'm in 2nd instead of first when coasting almost to a stop and then getting on the gas. When riding on wet pavement I use to hit he gas and when the powerband hit it'd break the tires super easy. I was on a wet street the other day, hit the gas and the pull started so soon it gripped and pulled the front end up... amazing. I have 28mm (trail mx riding) fattys, v-force and grand river racing ported the cylinders for the stroker crank. Keep in mind, you'll never be the fastest. If you need a crank or want to spend some money that's a good way to go. You'll need more than a crank though. Head (new or modified) porting crank It's not cheap, plus all the other things you wanted to do... topend... etc... It is a gain in performance for sure though.

I'm not sure what kind of riding you do, but you may be very suprised with the fatty. It's a proven pipe.

The fronts can not be rebuilt. The rear can and just a rebuild will probably be around $100 or less. If you want, you can get it set up with a new spring and valving for your weight for around $300.

Might as well go to a 4mm stroker now!!!

Degree keys only sheer if you don't torque the flywheel properly.

I think ricky stator sells an adustable plate for 10 more dollars. www.rickystator.com I didn't see it listed on there webpage though.

Here it is.

That's why people also use the tz bearing on the clutch side. That's usually the first bearing to go. ... Now your thinkin though.

It's a bit blurry, but here's a pic I snapped after putting it on.

Click here to see Holymans Kicker Mod.

You should do it the same as winterizing a boat. Make sure your coolant will withstand the cold temp by making sure there is enough antifreeze. Fog the engine. You an also do like said above and put some 2 stroke oil in the topend and kickit over once or twice to spread the oil. DO NOT PLUG THE EXHAUST or you will have a condensation problem. Grease all the fitting to force any water out that may have made it in. Fill the take full and use stabilizer in the fuel. By filling it to the top you prevent condensation and water in your fuel. Then run it to get the stabilizied fuel into the carb circuit. Turn the fuel off and pull the bolt from the bottom of the carbs and let the fuel drain from the carb bowls. Make sure there is no water in the stator cover. It's know to get water in it. Frozen water just makes things break. Tip the shee up on the rear wheel and let the water drain out of the frame. You'll be surprised how much water gets in those frames if you ride in it or wash it often. If you want, you can also put it on jack stands supported by the frame. This lessons the stress on the shocks but isn't a must. You could also do some standard maintenance while your at it. I also like to put di-electric grease on all the connectors including the sparkplug. I don't winterize my shee because I like to play in the snow. Hope this helps. I may be forgetting something, but I can't think of anything else that's a must.

Go up one for every 15 to 20 degrees.

If anyone has time, could you help me find maxima tundra R 2 stroke pre-mix for under $30 a gallon. It has to be the R. If I can't find it cheap enough, I'll just start buying it from Andy at grand river racing. I think it's $29. He has done some dyno testing and found he got more power with that oil compared to some others. It's also certified by eurpeon standards and japanese standards. I guess these are much tougher standards than the u.s. for engine reliability. I'm going to start using this since the bearing in my crank went out. I was using semi-syenthetic pennzoil. I didn't have any problems for 3 yrs, but hey, time for a change.

Are the slides in the correct carbs, choke tube in place, pilot jets in, fuel turned on , carbs synced? Does it start at all. Did you try disconnecting the tors.

I know what you mean. I was like that too when I first started on this forum. I like my stuff to be right or it drives me nuts. I started looking for things to be wrong that were not. Just ride and have fun. Keep up on the manitenece and fix things with better parts when they break.

That's my method to. By leaving the throttle closed, the vacuum created by the motor stays in the carbs to pull the fuel in. If you open the throttle the vacuum escapes through the air filter before it pulls the fuel in.

Meat, I didn't even notice that. Looked right past the eight plates. Nice catch. Did you have 8 plates with the barnett also? You need to loosen that cable all the way up, adjust the clutch using the screw in the center of the pressureplate and adjust it till the arrows line up. Then adjust the cable with a little bit of slack in it. I think it about 1/4" at the end of the handle.

The cable has nothing to do with the clutch adjustment. You have to adjust the clutch with the screw in the pressure plate.

what kind of riding?

Oh, I see what your saying. What's the highest compression number the stock head gasket can handle. dlnoss will be the man to answer that. There are a lot of people that have different opinions, but he makes head

Not to sure what your asking but the bashee has gravity feed carbs. Are you wanting to know how much you can shave off the head?

32:1 is the best average for most oils. Remeber the oil is designed for the motor, the motor is not designed for the oil. Use the recommondation of the oil maker.

I've been really thinking about this myself to. I have a set in front of me. On top end I'm almost 100% positive you won't loose anything. If anything you'll gain because there is 4 petals opening and the don't have to be pulled by vacuum so hard to open and they can close faster because the distance is less to sealed. That's why the reeds also help in mx. I can see the theory behind them.