fixitrod

I drilled mine and used a punch. You'll use an awful lot of dremel cutters and they are expensive. A grider would work the best. Make sure you use new cushions if the old basket has any slop in it. Also, you'll need a tube of red locktite.

Thinner reeds for snappiness but may flutter more at top end. Thicker reed for smooth strong topend. If you think how a reed works, you see why it works that way. Really though, you'll probably not notice to big of a difference between the two sizes mentioned besides the thicker one will last longer.

Email the pic to fixitrod@comcast.net and I'll post it for you.

The carbs stick slighlty open and when trying to get through water. I did several test and believe of vacuum is being created either by water getting in through the choke circuit or the outside of the carb body shrinking because of temp change. I believe it's vacuum because the slides drop the instant you turn the motor off. You can watch them when the air filter is off. I bought new carbs and can play in the water just fine now.

Because they are taking that route with race style machines. I read it somewhere. I think it might have been on the yamaha web site.

But, you may find a builder to turn around and say you caused it... how about another $500 to fix it.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id...34&type=product that's the one I have http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?id...47&type=product this one is close with a better processor in it. If you go to fuji finepix on ebay, you'll see all the lenses you can get for it. Type in finepix 3800 or s3000.

Indiana and MI both do not require a title. It's like buying a bicycle. You can get atv's titled if you want to ... I did just in case... but, I had to pay taxes then. That's why some states require a title....so they get your tax money

About .030.

The finepix also has sound. You can put as many 60sec video clips on the card until it's full. It's a 3.2megapixel with 6x optical and 3x digital. It comes with an adaptor ring that lets you add telephoto lenses (more optical zoom up to 3x = 18x optical I've found so far), wide, filters etc... It also has macro for the real close up pics. If you look at the 4mm stroker pics I posted you can see I was able to get pretty close to the ports and keep the pics clear. All camera's will not perform to there full potential with low light though. There are a lot of good camera's out there. Just thought I'd add that since boonman was very specific.

I just got mine back from Andy at grand river racing. The pics are in the images section. He was concerned about the previous porting until he put them on a degree wheel.

Some compression guaged have a thing that looks like a tire vavle needle that goes inside the tire vavle steem. They do go bad and even stick giving you a lower reading. If you have the sunpro version, they will usually send you a new valve to thread in there for free if you just call them. It's leaking or the 30psi would stay on there.

I bought a top of the line jvc for around 1200 and it's been back and forth to the shop for the last year. I will never buy jvc again. never never never. They gave me a sony $400 loaner and it works better than my jvc ever did. If you want a digital still camera, the fuji finepix s3000 and s5000 are great choices. They let you do 60sec video clips also. The video clip quality isn't that great but the still pics are awesome. If you see any of my pics on here, most of them are with the finepix3800... same as the s3000. Digi video camera's take crappy still shots.

Every builder uses diffrent opening, closing and durantion degrees. I'm sure the builders are correct..... for the way they like a motor to run.

Pipes are a very vital part of the engine. I could only guess you are loosing power or creating very unnecissary heat.

Like meat said. It would have to be titled by have a police officer to a vin to prove there was not vin. Then you'd have to apply for one. They'd send you the paperwork for the new vin. You'd have to add the vin... I use a trophy shop to make a meatal label that I rivet on. Then a police officer would have to do a vin inspection on it again to prove the number was added. Then you could get a title. That's in Indiana anyway.

A lot of builder make their own intakes and they do not include the balance tube. PassionRE, I have seen those manifolds you're refering to. I questin the size of the crossover and it's effectiveness.

I always pump waterproof grease in the hole with the rod and ball when I take it apart. I am guilty of reving with the clutch pulled in but haven't had that problem......YET!!!!

I seen those a couple weeks ago. Made me wonder if it'd fix the water problem that the stock banshee carbs have.

I just ordered the tundra r from grand river racing. Thanks anyway Holyman.

I'd do a compression test first. If it shows low on one cylinder then time for a rebuild. If not, try new plugs and see if it's coincedence. If that doesn't work, clean the carbs really good. You may have just gotten dirt or sand in one of the carb circuits.

http://kuoi.asui.uidaho.edu/~john/tips.html

Just remeber when choosing a mix ratio, the oil is smart not the engine. The type of oil is the deciding factor for the ration. See what is recommended on the bottle. I know most are very vague and just give the ounces per gallon so you'll just have to take the suggestion you get in stride. I run 40:1.

To check your squish, you can use a piece of solder. Take out the spark plug. Bend a piece of solder at a 90deg angle and put it in the spark plug hole. Make sure the solder is long enough to reach the outside edge of the dome of the head. with the kick starter, roll the piston 1 cycle to smash the solder. Now, you can measure the smashed solder with a dial caliper or mic to see what your squish is. You should do this at 4 to 6 points on each cylinder to assure you head in centered with the piston.... not that most can be changed.

Have it checked at a machine shop. I had a head that was .003 off and it dripped. If it's that slight, you can use a sealant on it. That high temp copper works. Another option is to have it milled. Might as well take a little off and add a little performance while your at it. How did you notice the leak was happening. Was it after a rebuild or something. I believe Boonman and ScottM here on the forum can hook you up.