fixitrod

I looked at it and understand that part now.

I agree. I got tied up with someone recently and it fired me up. It was the first and last time that has happend on the hq and it was because I took it wrong. Wheatchex, your dead on man. I agree that most of the trouble is the qauntity of people. It only takes a few to to ruin it for everyone. As far as the repeat questions, they are almost always good. There are many variation to questions also. Some have a specific question that may only have been answered in part somewhere else. Most of the time, different people give unique advice. Either respond positive or move on. That will also help keep the others from getting fired like I did.

Higher octane yes. Race fuel... nope.

He said they need resleeved.

Worthless post. This is exactly what this site doesn't need right now. We get waves of newbies that want to learn all the time. That's great. But this kind of crap will steer them away. We also get some that like to stir things up. If I'm not mistaken, you haven't been here very long yourself. For you people that are here to learn....Please ignore this. This is not what bansheehq is about. This is what we don't want around here.

Yeah, I completly understand the adjustment, I just want to see which way the little spring pulls the clutch push rod. Toward the clutch or away from it. Must be away from it from what your saying.

Got it... and it's done. I took the comment wrong and also thought you were joking about being high...my mistake.. And I did exaggerate. Boonman, the clutch springs bring the handle back to position. So, you're saying the marks don't line up when the cable has free play. I'll have to look tonight when I get home. I'm surely not saying your wrong, I just need to see it to understand. It's one of those little things that will erk you until it's sunk in.

Someone could modify the stock cable to fit the twist if they have the tools to crimp the ends on.

excellent

YOu know, I debated that with my self after I said it. What keep making me think there was tension on it is the fact you can put free play in the cable. What does the push rod assembly rest against with the force of the spring. I didn't pay to close attention to that. I had it apart when I did my crank but didn't look real good. So basically, what keeps tension on the assembly and keeps it on it's alignment mark if the cable has slack in it?

Looks like you had a lot of blow by on those rings.

I'll pm you about the first part. If you were around on the old site, you'd know what happen. The second part looked like you were calling boonman an idiot and I don't appreciate that. He is well respected here and doesn't need that. I will pm you because this is not a public disagreement... It's getting personal. I do want to appologize if I took your visualize comment very wrong. I'm sure you will see I am not a shady mechanic and we will learn from each other.

Since you're restricted to $50, port the cages and use TDR reeds.

I'm 99.99999999999999% you're positive. But you know how people get when they set their mind on something. He may cod shit... but that's it.

Yeah, I just noticed that after watching it 10 times. How would you like to pull up with your mustang cobra and get whooped by a diesel.

I think he just got mixed up D34. 1.0 is a full inch over . But yeah, you'd have to have new sleeves pressed in or get new cylinders. If your in that situation, you might as well have big bore sleeves put in

Just so you know, I have put that clutch together 5 or 6 times in the last 2 months. First my clutch went, then I broke the basket, then I had to keep taking it apart to get the shaving out of there, then my crank went and had to rebuild the motor. I am talking from experience....not just running my mouth. I don't have to visualize, I had my hands on it and seen how it worked. You know what, this is like pissing in the wind.... I'm done cause I'm getting to wet.....

I doesn't matter, if the wheels aren't moving the pressure plates not moving and the ball isn't spinning. The pressure plate does not spin at idle while in gear and parked!!!! It just can't. The seperation of engine and tranny are at the clutch basket and pressureplate/innerhub of the clutch. The connecting point is the fibers and steels.

If you decide to COD it inspect the contents of the package before accepting it. It could be filled with rocks.

Quick question, if thats true then are you for a short time obviously running at a different mixtre? So is that harmfull to the engine even though it is a short while? Very good point, I wonder if that's why I burnt two cranks in three yrs at the end of a hard run. I'm switching oils anyway. That may have been part of it. Maybe a better burning oil would help.

At least someone understands what I'm trying to say.

The clutch is connected to the clutch basket... not the hub. The pressure plate and hub connect to the tranny. If the wheels aren't spinning, the pressure plates not spinning. Unless there some magic happening in my tranny. Now, I could see that happening in nuetral.......but not in gear. There is some rubbing happening on the friction plates, but the pressure plate will not move in gear unless the wheels are moving.

Probably all the oil that's getting pushed in with the fuel. The fuel burns faster than the oil will. It has to catch up.

Like this, BenBBs Jetting FAQ