fixitrod

Both of the above. To adjust the clutch you have to remove the ride side cover. You will see a screw with a locking nut in the center of the pressure plate. You adjust that until the the arrows line up on the arm that the clutch goes to and the case. You will have to push on the arm with the arrow on it with your finger and adjust until it lines up. Then retighten the locking nut, put it back together and adjust the cable at the clutch perch to have some slack... I don't have the measurement handy. You need the slack so the clutch can grab all the way when letting go of the clutch handle.

I have actually not tried the tdr reeds. I was going to use them on my stroker until nyuk sold me some delta's. Here's what I've been told. The boyesens will open easier because of the thinner petal in the middle and give a slight gain in response over the tdr... but not much. The problem is, the thin petal flutters at high rpms causing speratic movement of the reed. You'll loose top end. Those are the reeds that were on there when I got the cages and I do not suggest them. I looked at them really close and they have a small crack on the divider of the thicker pedal. Not just one, but all four reeds are cracked. Solid petals are the way to go. Durable, last longer and they let the banshee pull it's topend like it's desinged. TDR makes two thicknesses also. Most people run the thicker ones (I don't know the numbers off hand).

I have fattys and I think I used 1" or 1 1/4" heater hose. I had to tighten them the first couple times as the rubber heated and changed properties. They've been on for 2 yrs now and still work fine.

Did that work?

Anything's possible, but if the caps good and the overflow line isn't clog it shouldn't happen. It pulls coolant from the overflow bottle when it needs it.

Me too!!

If it's just steaming from the rad you probably spilled something on it when doing the rebuild or like you said, got something on it when riding. Just check that there are no holes in the rad while it's running. Mine smoked for 20min burning all the stuff off that I got on the motor, pipes, and everything. ***EDIT*** Just curious, (noting to do with this trouble) did you check the ring gap when you put your pistons in. It's something a lot of people don't do.

Try this Click Here It was the best thing I did for my cooling system. Never had an empty bottle again. It's free and it works great. Moving it up front really will help your troble.

I have 21x7x10 razors on the front of mine.

How much have you run it? Where is the steam coming from? You need to be more specific on the trouble. I assumed it was spitting coolant and obvious. If you think it's just burning old stuff then you don't see coolant????? Please, be more specific.

Now labor to put it together.

It's doesn't work. Just letting you know.

I just thought of something...duhhhh. You probably have a leak in the head gasket. The compression is making it into the coolant system and forcing the coolant out. It steams when it hits the pipes. A bad rad cap will let the coolant overflow with very little pressure, but you'd see the coolant bottle filling up first. Where do you see the steam?

What exactly are you looking for. Just the filter and outerwear. What are you going to do about the plate.

I heard of someone using one before. I wouldn't though. It gonna be way off balance and just cause trouble. I did the same thing. Ended up finding a new hinson on ebay for 120 with the cushions.

Are you sure it's gas. Does it do it all the time or only like the first hour. It could be condensation that built up in the pipe coming out. When your pipes cool, the will attract moisture inside. I may just have some of the old oil from the inside of the pipes coming out with it.

Did you put any of the hoses on backwards. Maybe it's blowing backward or the rad cap is bad.

Wheat, I swear some of the post have already cleaned up. Thanks for bringing all this up.

I didn't realize the book said that. Advancing timing will alway require more octane. I don't believe the shee really needs 93 pump gas in complete stock form. The compression ration is only 6.5 (I think). That's really low. +4 is not very much timing advance but is what works with most pipes. Even though advacing timinig does require more octane, the +4 will not take it over the 92/93 octane requirement. I run a ported motor with a higher compression ratio than stock and +4 with 93 octane. It's fine.

They are actually on the intake side but you have the idea. They are located between your carbs and cylinders. They open on the intake stroke to let the fuel in and close on the compression stroke to keep the air from blowing backwards through the carbs. They are made of a flexible type "plastic" or carbon fiber. If you look at some of the pics that are posted, it will help you understand.

I had the same trouble with the stock carbs. I tried cleaning the crap out of them and everything. If cleaning the needle and seat doesn't solve it, it may be time to buy a new needle and seat.....or buy new carbs. If it just drips a little when sitting like mine did, just turn the gas off. First, I'd try cleaning the needle and seat really good. I used a plastic brush and compressed air so I didn't scratch the metal. Maybe it didn't clean it well enough or something.

White smoke is coolant burning. If it has a slight blue tint then it's oil. My left pipe has always had a more smoke when it's cold but cures when it warms up. As far a syncing the carbs, pull the air filter and look at the carb slides. Pull the throttle and make sure they go up at the exact same time. If not, and you have tors, adjust the screw on the tors (big box on top of the carb) until they leave at the same time. This is also your idle setting. If the idle is to high, adjust the slide that is to high. If the idle is to low, adjust the slide that's to low. If the idle is fine, you may need to meet in the middle. I don't think sync is your problem unless they are way off. Make sure the pilot screws on the carbs (that's your jetting from 0 to 1/4 throttle postition) are the same. Adjust these by start at turn full turns from bottomed. If the there is hesitation when first hitting the throttle turn them in 1/4 turn at a time until it is worked out. That's it for low rpm. When exactly are you seeing this smoke. You may have a head gasket leak. If so, don't worry, it's only $10 for a gasket and really easy to change. Could be something else to. Please, be more specific about when you see the smoke. Oh, and welcome to banshee hq. Most of are here to help. Just ignore the rest

I bought some from duncan. They are actually made by outerware. They seem to be very tough. Had them for 1 yr. I just use dish soap and wash them in the sink by scrubbing them with my hands.

Still, if you're looking for a big bore project, it's a cheap start. You can sell your old cylinders for more than the sleeves cost.

what type of riding.