fixitrod

They are almost identical in features. Apperance and a little less power on the pioneer is it. Other than that it's operation like stated above. I hate these decisions.

Okay guys...looks like I'm gonna get two set of the spr176a's . Man they sound awesome. I can't decide on the head unit. I'm not buying from crutchfield, just using the pics. This one or this one HELP

By inexpensive... I mean a good deal on the item...... Most bang for my buck kind of thing.

Opposite opinions lmao. I guess that's what I get for asking. I wish I knew more people that were into this stuff around here... so I could listen to them myself. What is your guys opinion on the kicks as far as imaging. I have read about them, but I want real world advice through real world experience. Thanks

Boonman, I have put tweets in the mirrors before. As far I was concerened, they blended to much. I didn't have a way to time them though. I used a dremel and spiral cutting bit and they fit nice. I haven't been in this game for a while keep in mind. I have read what you are saying about mb quarts. It supposedly the titanium tweeter. I don't know. I am going to try to make my rounds listening to some more speakers today. They ALWAYS sound different on the wall of the store though. I will take the polk advice. I listened to some yesterday and they had a very smooth sound to them. When I was in it last, the ppi amps were the shit. I had a little 30x30 running two 10" kenwoods one time (probably the smallest I ever had back then ) and it actually pushed them hard. I was amazed. Anyway, all the advice I can get would be appreciated. I want something very clear. Thanks

I'm looking to put some sounds in my truck. I have an f150 supercrew...2001. So far I'm looking at an Alpine head unit with the 4v pre's. A 4ch for front and rear. A 2ch mono amp for 1 12". I really really want a great front stage. I have been out of the scene for a while. So far I'm looking at the infinity Kappa's and the MB Quarts ( I think dsc 916). I've debated the kick panels for imaging but have heard from some with expeditions that it didn't help to much. I may just try to support good imaging by moving the tweeters as far forward on the dash as possible and leave the 6.5's in the doors. I'm be putting some simple 6x8's in the rear doors so it doesn't pull my front stage away to much. The 12 will fit in a custom box under the rear seat. Any help with creating a crystal clear front stage would be appreciated. Also, if you have an inexpensive place to purchase these items... that of course would be good too. Here is a link to the most inexpensive place I have found Etronics web site

He said wish list

Wow, this is crazy. Anyway, I have heard from somewhere else that the coating can get rub marks on it... oh boy. Rub marks on my springs that are covered... what will people think? I'd rather that grit and sand get stopped at the cover rather than at the shaft. The shaft can and will get pitted if not taken care of. As far as the shaft getting bent from being low, this doesn't make sense to me. I'm not saying you're wrong, but if it were low from leaking wouldn't that mean less force on the shaft? I could see bending an a-arm from bottoming out, but if he didn't notice it was riding bad before than.... man. I think the seal went from bending the shaft. That's my opinion. As far as whose bikes better, how can you, Sandstar, ridicule blueduece for have "all the useless shit from AutoZone" and "curb feelers" but turn around and say your quad looks so much nicer. Personally, it doesn't matter to me. I like to see a quad that operates well. I started with chrome pipes and decided chrome isn't for me. I ride too hard and get to dirty for it to matter. As far as whether to buy good shock covers.... I say go for it if you want to save your shock. There are no wonder seals or un-destructible shaft material. The operation of the shocks is more important to me than the rub marks..... If they ever start.

I'm curious what the squish was?

I run axis all the way around an I still use shock covers. They keep the grit off the shaft and save the seals. Nothing wrong with running shock covers.

Please duece, do race this guy. It might be worth the flight

And, why do you think that?

There will be a circular pattern rub mark on the case, that is normal. Look at the impeller in bright light and see if there are tiny cracks in it. If you have the side cover off the motor do the same with the gear. You can buy a new one if you want, but if it's not overheated and the plastic is good, you're probably just fine.

Great review duece. I looked at your pics and have a couple questions. Why don't you move the coolant bottle to the front? Do you not loose coolant? I always did until I moved it. Also, I noticed you don't have nerf bars. Do you not run nerfs on the track? Just curious. I'd also like to see pics of that 12port. Jim, I know you are checking this. Could you either post some pics of it or email them to me @ fixitrod@comcast.net . I'm very curious. ***Edit*** Wouldn't that be great to use a banshee and a pro-rider to whipe the competition out in a gnc mx event. I'd laugh my ass off. These stroker motors due pull like mad.

Just curious, have you seen fullbores. The Red is my favorite. Other than that, I say yellow with black tank..... like meats

Explanation of piston trouble... Click Here !!!

Excellent point. You can check it by putting a piece of solder in the cylinder at 4 to 8 different positions. Push it into the spark plug hole and make sure it goes all the way to the cylinder wall. Crank it over with the kick starter, pull the solder out and measure it with a caliper. That's the most accurate. Even though it's a zero deck motor, there my be a little variation.

In Indiana, the police can write up a vin inspection saying they read it, ran it and it's not stolen. It's $5 and you that's all you need to prove the vin. See if that's possible there in ny.

.029 might be okay. I've seen a lot of builder go between .030 up to .039. Hopefully dlnoss will chime in on this one.

You can buy some gasket paper from the autopart store and make one. You probably wouldn't have a problem if you just used yamabond or grey rtv sealant.

You may be raising them but you are not gaining port open duration. You'll just be changing the timing. It seems you may gain some rpms but loose torque, but I'm not positive. A lot of builders don't raise the exhaust port. They re-shape them.

Monkey wrench here..... What type of riding?

I was going to suggest the same thing Duece. Actually with a 15 in the rear you'd actually have to put a 42 in the front for low end... not a 38.

I have to agree. Maybe you need to pop the head off and put a new head gasket on. It's only $10 - $15. Re-torque to 20ft/lbs and see what happens. Also, like said above, make sure you don't over-fill it.

You'll find most people on here very helpful and most knowledgable. An excellent site to use is Meat's www.thebansheezone.com . He has a step by step for splitting the cases with pics. That money did not include tearing it down. That was sending the cylinders and head to him. He got the pistons, matched bored them to the cylinders, ported them, cut the head, welded the crank and I think I paid an extra $65 or $75 for the tz bearing for the crank on the clutch side. That bearing gets beat up from dropping the clutch all the time. Lots of shear. The TZ has a lot more surface area to protect from shear. Anyway, Check out Meat's site. Click on the links below. If you have dial, sit back and wait. You may even want to print it out. It's excellent stuff. Meat's top end page Meat's bottom end page