fixitrod

This depends 100% on your riding. Stock suspension is tough in more way than one, though, including on your body, lol . I had my Banshee about 6 months back in the day and went straight to a quality suspension. Asking if they'll hold up is relative to what you'll be doing.

Have you tried swapping left and right spark wires to see if the other cylinder fires better? They both fire on the the "on and off" stroke. Verify no air leaks by spraying starter fluid around carbs and reeds. Verify no broken reeds. Verify choke tube is between carbs. Verify slides are synced Veify main and pilot jets are tight Just trying to think of simple things first.

Make sure your pilot jets didn't get something in them or are loose from taking them apart.

I know this post is old but If you have a way to measure the correct amount of oil for the amount of gas you add it'd work fine.

Did you try a new stator or test it only? I've tested stators that tested good and were not. If you haven't tried one see if a friend will let you pull theirs to try it. But, your switch comment is a bit confusing. You do not want the run switch to "beep" continuity to negative in the run position.

But a quality helmet and boots. Run quality pre-mix! First thing... move the coolant bottle under the front plastics to keep it from self siphoning and overheating. Blew up my first Banshee after one ride because it ran itself out of coolant riding whoops by a train track and I didn't know. It's stock spot is terrible. The overflow tube still needs to be run in the same spot, just get the bottle lower. After you get it fixed spray starter fluid around the carb boots and reeds to make sure there's no air leaks. Learn jetting. This one single skill can make riding 2-strokes much better! Both for creating proper power and troubleshooting (if you work on your own stuff). Without knowing the full build nobody here can suggest a fuel. At a minimum, do a compression test and see what carbs you have when taking it apart. Doing an inventory of parts and taking pics of your port work and internals while it's apart could be helpful later. Spend a little extra on the crank or have a needle bearing (TZ) pressed on to replace the ball bearing on the clutch side at a minimum while it's apart. Have this done by somebody that knows what they are doing. The crank going out destroys motors. Starting with a good crank is like putting a good foundation under a house. If you want lower end power or less noise get a 4-stroke. Tons of money in a Banshee gets you more top end and more noise lol. Don't be afraid of rpm, there is more power at rpm, but I'm not sure lugging the motor would cause it to blow up unless there was another issue that would have showed up sooner or later. Bad crank seal, coolant level, big air leak, etc makes more sense. I ride wheelies slow enough the motor wants to stall in 1st and it doesn't have an issue with low rpm.

The clutch basket is part of the clutch. It holds the friction plates. If it gets grooves, it can keep the discs from separating "cleanly" when pulling the clutch handle. If you only notice it slightly when shifting into gear it still has some life. If it starts getting hard to shift or feels like your not pulling the clutch when you shift (but you are) you'll want to replace it before it breaks and does more damage.

It could be the port work... port timing... that allows this. I ran into something similar that required smaller domes than expected. FAST should also be able to start you off with a jetting recommendation to "tune from".

Tip... move the overflow to under the front plastics in the frame and it won't run out all the time. Harder to fill but you will not have to very often. You can even tap into the line and add a temp gauge while your at it.

I don't remember his last name. He went by Banchetta on here. He worked as a framing contractor and his family had lobster boats.

Try lowering your needle or leaning out your pilot jet. Research jetting tips to help you get the carbs "tuned" up. Learn about the pilot jet, needle height, and main jet. If you want to get a little more serious you can get into needle taper. Learning this will make owning a banshee much less frustrating especially if your doing modifications.

Shorter swing. It's worse in the whoops with shorter swing arm though.

If you don't have air blowing into the crank case or gear oil getting "sucked in" (bad seal in crank case) maybe try swapping plug wires and maybe plugs. They spark at the same time up and down stroke so it doesn't matter which cylinder they are on. Then try swapping carbs and check/swap reeds.

Whatever you get consider having a needle bearing put on it if it's using ball bearings. I have a hotrod crank but had it rebuilt before installing it with TZ Needle bearings. It's a 4 mil long rod. I had several dune trips and my track trips on it. I got tired of blowing up engines from the damn bearings failing.

Two stroke engines circulate fuel and the mix oil through the top and bottom. It's not like a 4-stroke. If it's a lot you're getting to much fuel somehow.. float height, lots of jumping and bumps, jetting, maybe even reeds. You may know about 2-stroke engines already but wanted to mention it just in case.

Fog for 2 stroke boat motors works as well.

Lol I hear ya! I've been hear since the network54 dial up modem days! I feel old though.

Glad to see so many old names! Any heard from Jason in Maine? Went to Glamis and Dumont with us back in the day?

Doing pretty good. As well as life can be I guess. Hope all is well with you as well!

What's up! Another person I've had the privilege to meat (pun intended ) I hope everything is good with you too

Holy hell! How are you! Another blast from the past! I'll let her know. Dude, I'm with you. I stil have the banshee. Haven't rode it since my back surgery 13 or so years ago. I found a doc that's helping so maybe riding will become an option again! Definitely, would need to get some meds to handle it but you got me thinking!

Been doing ok. Weathers getting nice. Wishing I could ride like I use too!

I know this topic is old but at one time I went from 130 on 97 pump gas to 190psi 113 octane klotz on a 4mm long rod with 35mm PWKs and slightly wild port. I could ride a balanced wheelie to a crawl but my top end really suffered. Trails were slightly better, mx track was slightly better, up the dunes at glamis in 4th or 5th it actually suffered more than I liked. My times were faster with the right head and pump gas than an over compressed expensive fuel requiring head because I liked riding "in the power" at those high rpms. It was disappointing for me but some people really like gaining that lower end. It also blows me away how different every banshee seems to ride so differently. A mod on one person's quad may not feel the same on yours. Bottom line, it depends what your main riding is, can you afford to go back or try something different if you don't like it and can you afford the now insane race fuel prices?

Depends on the "bog" but I'd start with the pilot jet screw before tearing it apart. Also, verify your carb tops are tight, no choke air leaks, etc. 1/4 turn in, if it doesn't change try another 1/4 in. It should get better or worse by then. If it's worse, go the other way. If you can't get it satisfactory with the screw, dig into dropping or raising the needle or look for other very basic things first like the filter.

An easy air leak check is to spray starter fluid around the carbs while it running. You can do it at idle and with some RPMs. If it revs up you know there's an air leak. If you're running it at the max speed you should be able to pull your plugs to see how they are looking as well. It could be anything from mixing the fuel wrong to a failing CDI. Think of anything else that has changed first.