gusto
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Posts posted by gusto
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1 hour ago, ClaudeMachining said:
Chrome = gay.
We will look at your bracket soon my friend.
Envoyé de mon SM-G965W en utilisant Tapatalk
Your jelly!
i made the bracket already for the shifter electronics, I have it attachingibg to my air box tabs.
what would be cool is if you could think of a bracket that can attach to my stator bolts that can hold the shifter
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10 hours ago, BigRed350x said:
Just a heads up - if you use that fiberglass cloth style header wrap they sell at automotive stores, it will leave marks on your pipes after a while. I've used it in the past around the filters and it worked good, but if you ever unwrap the pipes they will have marks from the wrap that are tough to remove. If you don't ever plan to remove the wrap, then I would give it a try. worked good for me in the past.
thanks
7 hours ago, locogato11283 said:NASA wrap.
never heard of it. I will look it up. I want something that wont leave a mark on the chrome.
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I damn close to an inch from touching. Still need to put on outer wears but they’re thin. Should I be worried?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk -
ya im just wondering for my set up. curious to hear how close people let the stinger get to the filters before they heat wrap?
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So how close to the lstinger/headerbcan the filters be before you have to wrap?
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High rollers yous are
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Snipers don't work well on DL cylinders, at least from the dynos ive seen . Snipers work well on Redline serval motors but the ones ive seen have that weird dip. CPI have a real nice curve. Basically, I think it comes down to the guy porting the motor not the pipe. I would like to see dyno from another builder comparing pipes.
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Stick type (though not as good) are cheap effective and easy to install
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driveline is the best bang for the buck. Have them do the motor porting and use their crank. You’ll save a bunch. Have them add boost ports, they’ve been seeing big hp when they’ve been added.
shearers, CPI work good on them.
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Hope your crank was t damaged where the key way sits.
glad you figured it out and was t to major. Lock tight that bitch and ride
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Post a video !
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When I upgraded my engine I went with the smallest carbs (28s) I could safely put on the engine. I did it for mileage
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Look at the dirt wheels article on a banshee built for desert racing. You’ll need long travel a arms, stock length swingarm, Elka rear link or move your shock mount on frame (DWs article), large tank, dc conversion for big lights. Your pipes are good bottom end pipe for stock motor, I would go PC for mid range. Out of the box no doubt the 450 is better with a way better frame and geometry
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I remember replying to that on FB not to do it.
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What’s done to it now?
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Didn’t you sell a set of Cascade silencers?
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Hell ya!!!!!
very happy to read this. You can experiment with pipes and try smoothing out the ride.
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I believe the guy that won a set was shortly banned.
GRR”s return to this site was very short lived...
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Stock carbs handle that hp no problem. Save money and keep them.
I ran 72 hp on stock carbs no problem
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Post vids
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Can you get it to sputter? Lots of compression? Does the crank move with plugs out?
i just reread your post. Got a rattle, better tear it down.
thats weird
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Klotz that’s what.
its awesome stuff but won’t sit well and gets gummed up. Maybe residual in the bowls?
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Can you even hydrolock an engine from getting too much fuel?
I’m thinking pull the carbs, check the float seat height, make sure they’re not sticking, pull off the pipes and plugs and clear it out
I'm looking to update my suspension
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
Alaba a arms and yfz450 (newer) shocks.
if your just buying shocks buy used floats