Alba Racing

I agree with windycityjohn. It should be so stiff you can barely turn the bars on the stiffest setting. Id get a rebuild kit and put some fresh oil in it or get a new one. I cant imagine needing 2 if it was working properly.

Anyone try one of these I couldnt make it through all 15 pages. These look sweet do they work? Reminds me of a edelbrock a bit.

I found that the stocker the engine the better the aftermarket reeds work. However it is a minimal gain. Once a engine has pipes and porting stock reeds start working better. You think it would be the opposite. Either way were talking about 2 hp at the most. It is a minimal gain and not worth messing with in my opinion. And like I said before Im sure if your building a drag engine with tons of hp you can do better than stock reeds.

Thanks for all the good info. I just showed our R&D guys so we can make sure these are built correctly.

I have done testing. I only trust what my dyno tells me. It is not a butt dyno it is a dynojet. I could see them maby giving better throttle response but I cant measure that on my dyno and I cant say for sure. Like I said I have never tested the vf4s maby they work. I have removed vf3s on ported banshees and replace them with stockers because the stock ones made more power.

I have one. I also have had a very nice sand buggy that I got rid of when I got a RZR 900. The rzr1000 is way more fun to drive. It is way more nimble and I feel like I can drive it way harder with out killing it. I liked the 900 better than the buggy too though. The 1000 is truely an amazing machine. The buggy would go through at least 1 tranny a season which cost 6k+ to rebuild and 2 cv's at a minimun. The buggy still sounded way better though. Nothing beats a v8.

Are you running the air box lid still?

Your jetting sounds good. Check the needle position it should be on the 4th clip. I would clean the carbs sync them and set float height before I started changing things. Also check the compression and make sure the engine isnt worn out. The jetting I would recommend is allmost exactly what you have 300 main 32.5 pilot and a dynojet needle on the 4th clip. I recommend dynojet needle but not jets. A dynojet 300 main is not =to a mikuni 300 main.

They do have adjustable / changeable pegs. I will post some pics as soon as I can.

Ha ha, ya I just noticed that. I should look at the date on these I guess.

400 feet elevation isnt enough to worry about. We use the same jetting from sea level to 3k feet with no problems. As far as jet brand your carbs are mikuni so you should run mikuni jets. Dont buy dynojet as they use there own numbering system. There needles work great though. Why do you think it needs to be rejetted? It sounds stock, are you sure it doesnt just need a carb clean or?

Stock reeds and cages. The stock setup works very good. On a built drag banshee im sure you can do better but for the average joe making less than 70 hp stock reeds work great.

Stock compression is 120ish. Id think you would have more.

We will have these available for the Banshee in 1-2 months. They have adjustable extra wide foot pegs and built in heel plates. They are made Banshee specific not a modified part made to fit a banshee. The below pic is for a yfz450. The banshee ones have heel plates that are deeper to clear the kick starter and the peg mounts look a bit different but overall they look about the same. They will be available in black in slver and with red, blue or black nets.

Shops including us have been milling banshee heads for many years with no problems. With 20cc domes your banshee probably had about 150psi compression. If your stock head was machined properly it should have about the same. Hopefully who ever did it cut the domes properly instead of just milled it. Like surfjag says squish and compression are everything. You need to check it.

Im a big supporter of stock reeds. On ported banshees I have seen stock reeds out perform aftermarket reeds time after time. On a non ported banshee you might see 1 hp. I would spend my reed money elsewhere. I have never tested the 4s but I assume there no different. Sounds like the latest gimick. I would like to test a set so I know for sure though.

PRO X pistons work great. pro x are cast and wiseco are forged. On a non ported banshee I wouod run the prox as they are cast and more forgiving to warm up and will probably last longer. If your ported you will probably want wiseco.

I have only seen 1 banshee flywheel key shear ever. Im assuming if one did the flywheel was not tightened properly. Modifying the stock plate will do the same thing and works just as good. Either way you will get the same gains for much less than an ignition.

Stock reeds work great. I would not change them.

Hey everyone I am new here in the forum. I am representing Alba Racing. I see some of you have some issues with our products. I am here for help if anyone needs it. If anyone has any issues that are not taken care of please send me a PM and I will do my best to get it taken care of. We do try hard to have happy customers so please let me know if you have any questions, problems or anything else you can think of. Thanks Patrick

Yup made specifically for the banshee with no modification needed. The heel plates are extra deep to clear the kick starter. You can start it like normal. The pegs are in the correct spot. We will offer a forum special when we get them in.

Just put in a 4 degree advance key in it ($20). You will get the same boost in hp (about 2-3hp). No launch limiter though.

Stock carbs work great. Get a tors removal kit and keep the stock carbs. You wont see much if any gains from bigger carbs unless your engine is pretty built.

A long time a ago we tested banshee pipes and here is what we concluded. FMF fatty and toomey t5 are best all around if you plant to port your banshee. T5 have a bit more uptop and fattys a bit more down low. FMF sst or Toomey t6 pipes are best all around for anyone not planning on building there motor. They have a little bit broader of a powerband.

The fattys are better.